i've got a 3s-gte twin entry exhaust manifold lying around, waiting for my turbo conversion, and i'm wondering if i could do any porting/polishing to it. any pointers?
also there is a great deal of carbon buildup inside the tubes, and i've read it's better to have it smooth and shiny. any ideas on how to remove the carbon? Thanks.
when the fvck did you buy that??? and how much? u my friend are a nut...and i'm mean that in a good way ahhahaha, seriously mate i can't wait for you to finish the car, might even fly up to check it out myself lol....
carbon wise i'm not sure, but polishing it you can use a dremel, ask Harmer, he's experienced with that stuff.
Yea i have a 3sgte exhaust manifold lying around for my turbo conversion as well and i would like to do some porting/polishing before i send it out to be ceramic coated and then slap it on, so any tips and/or guidleines would be much appreciated.
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'93 Probe GT - Daily Driver
'93 LE - Show Car - Coming SOON
Smooth and shiny on the exhaust is a good thing. If you don't have a good hand with the dremel tool, use sand paper rolls, no cutter. Less margin for error. Just smooth it out, removing protrusions, casting flash, etc. Then go to finer paper until it's nice and shiny smooth. Don't try to hog it out unless you are a pro. You can have it cleaned first at any automotive machine shop. Then send it out for the HIGH temp coating if you're running a turbo. The standard stuff will not hold up to turbo heat. There IS a difference in composition.
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Bob Raby
Santa Cruz, CA
'88 Alltrac (broken) FOR SALE
'87 4x4 Toy Truck SOLD
'90 4Runner (3.4 swap, CA certified legal with K&N intake, modified thermal coated headers, 2.5" exhaust, and almost as fast as a stock 3rd gen ) SOLD
can i just sand away the carbon? as for making it shiny (the inside) i've polished up an intercooler, would it be similar to that? also should i use a metal polishing compound (autosol) on the tubes?
Yeah, if you like you can use polishing compound on the last step. Cast iron is pretty freakin hard so use sanding rolls first to get it as smooth as possible, then go to finer rolls and finally polish. If you feel brave, you can gasket match the exhaust manifold entry runners. Line up the exhaust gasket on the manifold, scribe around the gasket at each runner. Blend the runner back about 1-1.5 inches. Make sure the gasket lines up evenly on the head as well, but don't mess with the head. You do not under any circumstances want the runner on the head to be bigger than the runner on the manifold as that hurts flow badly. However, if the runners on the manifold are a smidge bigger than the runners on the head, it helps reduce reversion back into the cylinder of the exhaust gasses. That is good for power.
__________________
Bob Raby
Santa Cruz, CA
'88 Alltrac (broken) FOR SALE
'87 4x4 Toy Truck SOLD
'90 4Runner (3.4 swap, CA certified legal with K&N intake, modified thermal coated headers, 2.5" exhaust, and almost as fast as a stock 3rd gen ) SOLD
sorry to bring back my old thread, but how much bigger should the exhaust runners be compared to the head? are we talking 0.5mm or 1 or 2mm or what? thanks.
.5 to 1mm or so would be fine. It varies head to head and manifold to manifold, so there's no set number for everything. Some packages work better with all the mismatch at the top, some better with it at the bottom, some with it all the way around. I don't know for your set-up, never seen it tested. Most seem to like the mismatch according to several expert sources though, so a safe bet would be all the way around in the neighborhood of 1mm give or take.
__________________
Bob Raby
Santa Cruz, CA
'88 Alltrac (broken) FOR SALE
'87 4x4 Toy Truck SOLD
'90 4Runner (3.4 swap, CA certified legal with K&N intake, modified thermal coated headers, 2.5" exhaust, and almost as fast as a stock 3rd gen ) SOLD
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