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Old 12-27-2008, 05:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have a problem

I have a 1999 Toyota Avensis, first edition. For those of you who don't know, it's the decentent of the JDM Corona and EUM Carina E, which basically were the same car. It has the 3S-FE engine, basically the same as in the 2. generation Camry, with some factory modifications. For an example it doesn't have the traditional distributor, like older versions had.

Anyway, to make a long story short, i didn't drive the car for about 2 years. Before that there was no problem. But now, since i started driving it again, i incountered some problems.

First, when the engine is cold, i need to use the trothle to keep it from stalling. After a couple of minutes i can start driving, but it still has a tendency to stall until it's really warmed up and it's idle'ing with very low rpm. Before all this, i only needet to turn the ingnition key, without touching the trothle and it would start and run around 2000 rpm. in idle at first, decreasing to around 700 rpm. as it warmed up.

Second, when i drive slowly and turn the stearing wheel and the powerstearing is enganging, the engine usually would increase the rpm. to compensated for the load from the powerstearing. Now that doesn't happen. Instead the rpm. decreases, because of the load.

Third. It has a manual transmission. When clushing out and letting go of the trothle to change gear, it would normally keep the rpm, just long enough to clunch back in, in the next gear, which made the gearshift very smooth. Now that doesn't happen. Instead the rpm. decrease at the same moment i let go ot the trothle, so i have to time it much better if i don't wanna loose speed when clunching back in.

So, any of you guys got any ideas as to what it could be? The root to all this is that the car didn't drive for 2 years, but could this be any particular problem causing these symtoms or is or is it 2 or more problems at once?
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Old 12-27-2008, 05:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Oh, one more thing. As mentioned before, when the engine is warmed up, it used to idle around 700-800 rpm. Now it's more like 1000-1100. when warmed up
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not familiar with your car, but from your descriptions and if it is anything like the Camry, this may be of some help for you: How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures. At least that is where I would suggest starting with.

N.E.O.

Last edited by new echo owner; 12-27-2008 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 12-27-2008, 05:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, that looks like something even i could find out.

Yes, as i said, it's the same engine as in the 2. generation Camry. Only difference i've noticed is a different valvecover and the direct ignition and a little more power, than the earlier catalysed units, which i suppose is due to different ECU settings.
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Keep us posted on how it go.

N.E.O.
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Will do, but tomorrow is sunday, so wont do any work that can wait.

Forget to mention another symptom. A high pitch whining noise, at high rpm. Not sure if it comes fron the engine or powersteering or alternator, but think it's louder when accelerating. Pretty sure it isn't a belt, but sounds pretty much like when the spark plugs, you can "hear" trough the radio. Only it's also there when the radio is off
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Can you hear the noise by revving the engine without moving?

Maybe try it with the alternator disconnected; just pull the plug at the back side to see if it makes any different. Got to start somewhere, and that is the easiest to do.

N.E.O.
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Didn't notice it when not moving. It will run ok, without the alternator?

I'm gonna start it up, take it for a spin and check it it's a difference between driving and just revving
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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For short distance, the battery will be sufficient to power the vehicle if it is in good health.

N.E.O.
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new echo owner View Post
For short distance, the battery will be sufficient to power the vehicle if it is in good health.

N.E.O.
Ah, ok. It's nigth here and pretty dark, so i'll wait with trying the altnernator.

But i'm just back after taking it for a spin. The noise is not noticeble when just revving the engine, appart from what i guess is a normal sound when rpm increases due to increased trothle, which is normal for all engines.

It is by far most noticeble under load when accelerating hard from 3000 to 6000 rpm. Also i noticed when accelerating at low rpm like 1000 to 2000 in high gear, there is a noticeble sound, that may be the same, but only sounds different a low rpm
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Could it be exhaust leak? Or intake leak for that matter? Rpm is pretty stable when not using the trothle, except when it's cold and stalling
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Without hearing the noise, I can really say what it could be; both are possible of making noise under acceleration and may not affect how the engine runs at idle.

N.E.O.
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:40 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I know there is some small leak somewhere on the exhaust, because i can hear i slight noise from it in idle, walking around the car.
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, if that is the case, maybe you should try and locate the source of that leak and see if it is something that can be easily corrected.

N.E.O.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If it's an exhaust leak, there is nothing to worry about for now. So first i'll concentrate on the airvalve, but not sure what kind of lubrication to use. This Sea Foam they talk about, not sure i can get it here. And some say to be careful, what to use. Do you know about a lubrication spray called Caramba?
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