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Old 07-15-2004, 08:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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New cylinder head replacement

i have an opportunity to get a rebuilt 3sfe cylinder head. its had a recent valve job, the cams are good, completely asembled.

the question is, what is the difficulty level of swapping out the head. ive looked in the haynes manual, but it makes everything sound pretty easy.

my current cylinder head is in need of valve work, and i can get this new one for much less than the cost of relacing all the seals and what not on my current head.

i know a mechanic who could assist, but i dont think he has done this on a 4cyl dohc engine before, pretty sure he has done it on an old v8
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Old 07-16-2004, 04:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: New cylinder head replacement

Quote:
Originally posted by Stevethecleric
the question is, what is the difficulty level of swapping out the head. ive looked in the haynes manual, but it makes everything sound pretty easy.
Removing the cylinder head on a 3S-FE is not to bad, I've done it before. Theres just a lot of stuff to unbolt.

It was easier then removing the cylinder head on a turbo Supra (7M-GTE) that my buddy had. That thing was a bitch to remove.

Manuals always make things sound easy till you realize what your getting into.

Quote:
my current cylinder head is in need of valve work, and i can get this new one for much less than the cost of relacing all the seals and what not on my current head.
If you have a lot of miles on your motor, I suggest that you also rebuild the bottom end (block). No sense in just rebuilding the top half (cylinder head).

Quote:
i know a mechanic who could assist, but i dont think he has done this on a 4cyl dohc engine before, pretty sure he has done it on an old v8
Its pretty much the same except the cams on a 3S-FE are on the top of the head.

On a old pushrod V8 the cam is in the block.

I've worked on both. One of my buddies has a supercharged 351W.

Anyways if you need help along the way just say so. I've torn apart a 3S-FE, 5S-FE, V8s, and nitro r/c car engines.



Edit: I also suggest that you look into a Toyota repair manual if your going to be doing any serious engine work. Especially if your going to rebuild the bottom end.

Toyota Service Publications
750 West Victoria St.
Compton, CA 90220-5538

1(800) 622-2033

The manual is about $80 brand new, but you can find them on eBay for less if your lucky.

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Last edited by 88 LE; 07-16-2004 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Re: New cylinder head replacement

Quote:
Originally posted by 88 LE


If you have a lot of miles on your motor, I suggest that you also rebuild the bottom end (block). No sense in just rebuilding the top half (cylinder head).

i agree.... i've taken my motor completely apart (5mge) and got the head surfaced, valve job, and cleaned....and then reassembled. When i started the engine i noticed there was still a little smoke coming out of the exhaust.... problly the piston rings is my guess. If i would have taken a little more time and money and rebuilt the lower end...then there would be no exhaust smog whatsoeva.

the head replacement should not be hard at all. I'm not familliar with your type of engine..... are the cam seperate from the head?...or is it all one piece?.... on my 5mge...including the cams and head it was 3 pieces ( 2 cams, one cylinder head).

The only things you got to really keep in mind is make sure you mark everything and put it exactly where it was before, and make sure you have your engine at TDC on the intake stroke...makes setting the timing alot easier when you assmeble it.
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Re: Re: New cylinder head replacement

Quote:
Originally posted by onephatcracka
the head replacement should not be hard at all. I'm not familliar with your type of engine..... are the cam seperate from the head?...or is it all one piece?.... on my 5mge...including the cams and head it was 3 pieces ( 2 cams, one cylinder head).
Same thing on a 3S-FE. One cylinder head and 2 camshafts. But theres only 1 camgear.

On the 3S-FE you need to remove the camshafts to get to the head bolts. The bolts are underneath the cams.

On my buddies 7M-GTE we left the cams in cos they didn't need to come out to unbolt the head.

Quote:
The only things you got to really keep in mind is make sure you mark everything and put it exactly where it was before, and make sure you have your engine at TDC on the intake stroke...makes setting the timing alot easier when you assmeble it.
True. Gotta make sure you know where everything goes and how to line things backup.

Theres alignment marks on the cams (on the scissor gear), cam bearing cap, and crank pulley. So lining everything backup is not a problem if you know how to do it.
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