I'm running greenstuffs on the car. I haven't had any real problems with braking, and I don't brake too aggressively on the street. They stop pretty well... I tend to lightly brake up to signs and lights rather than braking hard right before the stop.
Yesterday I had 8 runs and today another 8 at an autox event. This particular course was such that you wanted to get on the gas as much as you could, then brake as late as you could before you entered the slaloms... Halfway through today I suddenly had all this braking power! It was weird. Prior to this point I had to press the pedal maybe 50% to get close to lockup. After it was more like 25% pedal.
The only thing I can think of is that with normal driving the pads glaze with light braking. I'm thinking I finally burned off that glaze and suddenly got the true stopping power of the pads.
So anyway, just wanted to throw that out there.
Aside, squeeze the brakes, don't smash them. You can apply more brake and stop unbelievably fast if your pedal pressure is gradual than if you just mash it in and hope to slow down. That's my big development for this year, and it helped me be only 8 seconds slower than the fastest Porsche today instead of like 15.
To post or not to post =)
I remember my 3 sets of EBC's warming up quickly if you use them fairly hard.
EBC's = advantage at auto-x style racing.
No/light dusting = kewl (I always had dusting... Never could tell if it was road grime or pads)
However... Life exectancy = a joke. Absolute joke. My first set of greens went so bare they ruined a set of brmbo slotted rotors in 2000m, and by the time the replacements on blanks wore out 6000 something later, the REAR brakes had no life left. (8,000m for a real brake pad. EBC is the SMARTEST company ever. Design a product with no life expectancy and get half of your market to try it once LoL!)
Swapped to Hawk HPS + (or track, whatever they are now) 6,000-7,000m on them and they still look new.
They stop as well/ while resisting glazing better than any other pad I've driven on.
When you're on the street... They DRIVE like a street pad. Not as mushy, but they're not going to "bite" the rotors so hard at light brake pedals.
Honestly, if it aint obvious at this point, Hawk hooked me for life. Personally, I wouldn't want anyone without a specific racing purpose to drive a street car on EBC pads.
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Yeah, I'm not gonna go ebc next time. Two reasons:
1. I've never experienced the supposed "no dust" feature. I get the same amount of brake dust as I got with oem pads.
2. People have mentioned that they warp rotors... that appears to be the case with me. I'm starting to get a bit of pulsation, and have only had them since august, with now three track days on them. total.
EBC got Alum backing so it won't damage the rotor even when you run it down.
They must have added that in the last year and a half because mine GORGED out my slotted rotors.
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Hadn't seen that particular link before. Most of the stuff I knew already, tho. And yeah, I followed almost exactly their procedure outlined after I installed the ebc greenstuffs. As for rotors being broken in... there's breaking in and there's maintaining. I would wager that even an average driver will "break in" the rotors within 80,000 miles. They may not maintain them through good braking style, but the rotors themselves will not benefit from the heat cycling of a break-in at that point.
Anyway, as I type this I'm contemplating doing some stopping tests with the ebcs versus oems. Now that I know how to brake right I can test them properly. Would be interesting to gauge (at least subjectively) things like fade, stiffness, stopping power, etc.
So now at least you know the rotors are not "warped" Probably overheated a bit at some time. I haven't "warp" any rotor with EBC yet. Got it on my Corolla and Celica. KVR pads are close in braking power, fade and modulation and last longer. With EBC you know you can stop at all condition. I like the way it respond to the padel. I guess I should try EBC Red to see if it last longer.
Pineapple nope.
It was the full face of the pad gouged into the rotor. Roughly 3" on both sides (as in, duh... there pads wore out and I'm stopping on the brake backing.)
brink, time to pull out a gtech pro LoL!
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
for anything, anytime; including camry turbos Now with Turbo!
Pineapple nope.
It was the full face of the pad gouged into the rotor. Roughly 3" on both sides (as in, duh... there pads wore out and I'm stopping on the brake backing.)
brink, time to pull out a gtech pro LoL!
Oh damn. My doin't wear evenly and I was braking on the backing partialy. Funny thing is its still brake pretty good and no squeeky.
I have no idea how old this thread is but what happenned to you on the brake was simple brake fade due to the heat.
Could be due to one of two things ( and most likely both as tend to happen at the same time because they feed off each other.),
One, you started boiling the brake fluid in the calipers change your brake fluid to the highest temp rating you can find in your area. You should flush some our after every couple of track days anyway.
Two, you can actually get your rotors so hot the metal in the pads becomes near molten. Just like when you skid your tires braking and the tires melt on the pavement making you lose traction. I can see this being a real possibility with aluminum enhanced pads. Aluminum has a low melting point. Consider carbon pads for the track.
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Ricers - Imitate, Racers - Originate.
1989 Corolla GTS -4agze propane (rebuilding ... again)
2005 Subaru Legacy (we'll see if if lasts as long as the Yota's)
2008 Yaris
1) Dates are PROVIDED ON THE POSTS
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
for anything, anytime; including camry turbos Now with Turbo!
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