Sure do. Nothing else will give you a bigger power gain on an N/A engine
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Tho I started to write a guide one time (You can search for that), I pretty much (now) have changed my opinion that "if you have to ask, you don't need to know" kind of thing.
If you've never torn a head off, now isn't the time to start. Internet searches will turn up everything you need to know if you take your time and read *alot*.
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i have been searchin but i wanted you guys opinion. do u know how long it would take tho, me and my friend think it would take over 50 hours but from what ive seen it doesnt seem that it would take that long
What engine, how many valves, have you ever taken an engine apart before, how MUCH of the engine have you taken a part before?
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It is best to do let someone experienced do it. You can try and mess up and have a worse flow than before. Head porting takes a lot of time and skill. To get it right it takes a lot of experience and proper tools to check flow.
Fair warning, there's many methods of porting a head, one involves going for maximum VE (volumetric efficiency) and another goes for air velocity.
A good ported head will increase VE while increasing velocity as well. Finding a shop that tests both velocity and VE is another story. My head that's being worked on was ported for velocity as well as VE.
I should say though, for a 5S-FE, you'll not see a huge difference solely from porting. There's much more that you need to do to see a difference. The cams will be a huge bottleneck.
Not recommand to do P&P yourself. Unless you can answer these questions: How big you should open the port to? How much material you can remove around the valve stem bearing? How smooth a polish you need? Also a P&P without valve job is a waste of time. Its easier to totally screw it up then get anything good out of it.
You also need to be good at tuning, or dialing in the correct fuel/air mix after it's done, or you can have a car that runs lean and makes less power than before all of the work.
I was daring and removed just the intake manifold, stuffed oil soaked strip of rags down in the intake ports, then used a Dremel to put a delta shaped profile on the little divider that splits the port into two ports before the valves. By getting rid of the blunt surface, turbulence is reduced. To remove the aluminum shavings before taking the strips back out again worked well for me, and it was fun to make a huge blue cloud when I started it back up again.
I was skeptical to whether it would even make difference, and to my surprise it took a week of daily adjustments to get the fuel pressure dialed in again, a PITA really, but it's over now and the car runs great, way better response, and power everywhere in the rpm range.
If you are not sure, - go to a junkyard and buy a whole head for your engine. You can do what you want to it with no rush and still be able to drive your car as you do it.
After you are ready, just swap heads.
If you don't like what happens, swap it back to stock.
Don't know what that will cost but it's an option.
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