my car has a stupid overheating problem with the brakes at the track.
and this happened with brake fluid good to 550f. my dad drove a STOCK altima with STOCK FLUID and stock everything(had steelies and hubcaps too, so dont give me the more open rim info) and it didnt even overheat the brakes...but mine overheated...and my car is like 1000lb lighter than that POS too. so what gives? how can i cool the brakes more?
take off your backing plate. but i've been warned that in wet weather, it will feel as if your brakes are missing.
btw, how do you know if they're overheating?
Nick
the backing plate of the brake pads? it makes a diff??
how do i know i am overheating? simple: i cook the brake fluid. the brake goes to the floor and i get no pressure. car doesnt stop.
running ducts should help...but i have to bend them in such a way so that it gets around the tire and go to the rotor...ouch...pain. is there an easy way to do it?
Have you considered better brake fluid? Motul or something similar may help. As for ducting, use the metal ducting and zip tie it to the lower control arm.
Have you considered better brake fluid? Motul or something similar may help. As for ducting, use the metal ducting and zip tie it to the lower control arm.
i am using better brake fluid. my fluid is good to 550f man. it's the stuff they use in SUVs and crap. ford premium fluid...ppl track with this stuff.
unfortunately the best way to fix your problem is probably the most expensive-
(I know I sound like a broken record, if you've read the thread on cross drilled/ slotted rotors)
I assume that you have stock brakes. If you don't then just ignore me!
You need bigger pads and bigger rotors- If you got stock rotors and pads they are probably way to small to disipate the heat you are generating while racing. If the brake are to small, no matter what you do, you'll cook your fluid.
no the backing plate behind the rotor. that will cool it off exponentially.
perhaps your pads aren't up to par? or your lines are flexing too much?
Nick
i thought of removing the backing plate behind the rotor...but will dirt and debris become an issue without the backing plate? it is there to protect the rotor from such elements is it not?
no the backing plate behind the rotor. that will cool it off exponentially.
perhaps your pads aren't up to par? or your lines are flexing too much?
Nick
i thought of removing the backing plate behind the rotor...but will dirt and debris become an issue without the backing plate? it is there to protect the rotor from such elements is it not?
right...its also to keep it clear of ater and what not.
I wouldn't suggest using it like that on daily driving applications...but maybe just take it off for the track....there's very little debris off the track, unless you plan on doing some John Deer driving.
for a brake vent, the best way to cool it is to cut out a hole on the backing plate, and attach the vent to the hole so its cooling more of the rotors surface area....while placing the vent directly in front of the rotor will work, it will only cool it minimally.
Thats a good idea about the ducting and since the shogun has nice duct spots on the front then Im gonna try to run those back there. So removing the break plate cools it but makes breaking in water bad? THat sucks! I think im also gonna step up to the expensive fluids....thanks.
I want to eventually get the rotor upgrade...but that takes $ and thats taken for other car parts right now!
Oh...one last thing steal braided break lines do they help cool for any reason? What exactly do they do :-? ?
ss lines don't help to cool...they help to prevent flex. the less flex, the more pressure is applied to the braking surface. however, to rigid of a line, in other words no flex, will result in probably your master cylinder being pooped out.
like i said before...bigger rotors don't mean better stopping. keepin mind that 700 hp 7litre v10 lemans cars use only about a 14inch rotor. its huge, but considering the power and the size of the caliper, its not majorly big.
I think theres something wrong with your brakes dude, I have mine so hot that I burn my hands on the lugnuts, let alone the disk.. BUT my brakes work 100% fine, everytime I press the pedal, everytime it works, yet to boil the fluid... and I'm using stock pads and stock disk assemblies...
You can help cooling simply by changing your rims.
About 10 years ago, the Dodge Shadow and I believe the Laser came with these special rims that were designed to suck air from out from under the car while cooling the brakes at the same time. This is why they only work when going forward, and have a specific set for left side and right hand side.
My friend has these rims on his Dodge Caravan...we purposely switched the rims around so instead of sucking, they were blowing in...and the whole van would start buffetting at 130km/h...when they were on the right way, there was no buffetting for as fast as we dared to push it...
THESE RIMS...fugly, but I swear they work
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