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Old 06-01-2005, 05:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Intermittent Oil Pressure Light

Not the sender, I actually pulled it while the light was on and saw no flow.
Stopped and restarted, and got great flow.

Looking for suggestions...

USA, 95 Celica GT (S), 2.2 (5S-FE looks right)...

Is the drive for the oil pump absolutely positive? ie, is the drive designed such that the oil pump could be working, stop , and then return?
I would suspect that it is so, that a broken part would remain non-functional, but does anyone know?

If so, I will concentrate on pickup/blockage/pan, which could come and go.

Is pan removable on car?

Thanks, tshephard
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Old 06-01-2005, 08:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tshephard
Is the drive for the oil pump absolutely positive? ie, is the drive designed such that the oil pump could be working, stop , and then return?
The oil pump is driven by the timing belt. So it should always be working whenever the motor is running.

Quote:
Is pan removable on car?
Yes, though some of the bolts/nuts might be hard to get to.
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for reply.

Are any of the pump drive pieces plastic/nylon, that could stop moving, then re-engage?


Also, the drivers side of pan seems to be blocked by, I don't know, a c shaped, seashell looking piece. Is it just a stiffener?

Tim S.
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Old 06-01-2005, 06:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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those sensors are known for failing for some reason on those engines. i had a friend with a camry who told me about that. they either clog or just fail for some reason.
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I pulled the sensor while the light was on (and engine running), and was quite shocked to see NO flow at all, and no tappet noise! So I'm pretty sure it is not the sender/sensor.

I have pan off, saw major sludge in pan, still looking for a mechanic who knows the oil pump.

Are the drive pully, driving , and driven rotor all metal, and positive drive?, or could they have stopped and then returned to pumping?
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Old 06-02-2005, 03:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Get a oil pressure gauge to see if you get oil pressure. Remove the sensor and clean it with degreaser, throttle body cleaner work pretty well to remove sludge.
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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how many miles on the engine cause toyota oil pumps rarely fail.
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Old 06-03-2005, 06:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I went to dealer, didn't have any parts but guy knew oil drive and rotor parts were metal. so positive drive.

Cleaned a ton of gunk out/off of pan and pickup, problem gone so far. Other sites list engine crud build-up as repetitive problem.

If anyone is searching, the pan is removable, loosen front motor mount, remove front center support bolts and single bolt in round, front m/m, loosen back bolts, pry support down and insert block for tool clearance to bottom transmission "seashell" bolts.

Tim S.

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Old 06-03-2005, 11:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Maybe time for an engine flush.
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Definately would have been the crud on the pickup causing the oil starvation.

Also don't chuck flushing oil in an older engine (i.e. many years since rebuilt) as it will remove more than just sludge.

If you want use an engine oil cleaning additive before your next oil change... i.e. the type you chuck in on top of your old oil and idle the car for 10mins and then dump your oil.

Nulon is the main brand for this type of oil system cleaning additive in Australia... don't know what you would have over in the states.
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