89 3sfe hesitation and power loss - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

pixelpadre · 06-04-2005, 06:24 PM

Well, I have a new rebuilt dist, new wires, rotorand plugs and no vacuum leaks and I still have power loss going up a hill. Striaght and level I'm not bad considering the age of the car. 1989. I have a new water pump and belt and timing is dead on at 10btdc.

ONly codes i have are 42 and 51. I have no ABS.

My mechanical speedometer cable on my manual transmission is busted but I dont know if that is sending data to the computer or not. Problem is worse when the engine is hot.

Can anyone figure out the prob?

Thanks
Steve

fredk · 06-04-2005, 11:27 PM

run a fuel pressure test and get meanings to the codes for us

pixelpadre · 06-06-2005, 08:55 AM

Its overheating too, even with new waterpump and thermostat. Radiator is hot and both fans are working.

There are two coolant sensors near the upper hose on the block. Not sure why there are two. But if one or both were bad, would that cause engine overheating? The coolant sensor on thermostat housing is working fine as it controls the fan operation.

Pineapple · 06-06-2005, 09:49 AM

You need a new rad. Old one is plugged. Unless your headgasket is blown.

pixelpadre · 06-06-2005, 09:54 AM

Well what about my question regarding sensors?

Radiator is hot and fan goes off and on as necessary by the sensor in thermostat housing. Wouldnt that indicate that water is cooling properly.

fredk · 06-06-2005, 01:05 PM

ok, check the radiator, start it up cold, pop the cap off and when the thermostat opens the water will start to move around, when it does check all over the radiator for cold areas with your hand, the fans should come on when the temp gage goes past half, see if the blowing air is hot all over, put the cap back on if the water starts coming out when it gets warmed up

pixelpadre · 06-06-2005, 04:09 PM

yea did that, ironically the thermostat apparently did not work so I took it out. There is a hot radiator and both hoses are hot. Car still has power loss but at least it has stopped overheating. I think.

Nope...its still overheating.

Given:
New functioning waterpump
Timing checked checked and rechecked and reset.
Hot radiator with hot hoses.
New Rad cap.
Thermostat in or out. (out at this time. Checked on kitchen stove)
Fan on rad works
Fan on A/c works
No oil in coolant.
No coolant in oil
No coolant leak.
No oil leak.
New Distrib.
New cap, rotor and wires.
Powder gray spark plugs.
Code 42, no speed readings in 8 seconds. blah blah ( no ABS on this car)
No other codes.
Original o2 sensor.
Original fuel filter.

What can possibly be causing overheating

silverstreakin · 06-08-2005, 02:12 PM

what signs are you getting of overheating?

also does it look like ash on the plugs? those might be on their way out... they should be brownish. 02 sensor and fuel filter may not be a bad idea to change. if i get a chance tonight im gonna swap out my fuel filter on mine. its been kinda dirty. i dont need any restriction on my 225lph walbro. i wouldnt do this with it overheating, but i have my timing at 15 degrees and it works great. i had the said power loss under like 3 grand when it was at 10 put premium in and advanced the shit out of it and no worries.

silverstreakin · 06-08-2005, 02:18 PM

did you change your radiator cap?

pixelpadre · 06-08-2005, 03:59 PM

Yes, new radiatior cap as well. I'll go back and add that to my list.

Gauge on dash goes to overheat zone after going up hills or frequent start and stop. Of course the hotter the engine gets, the less power I have and the more the engine heats up. A vicious cycle.

Some suggested that maybe the cat conv is clogged, but my car drives ok on straight and level.

This has really got me stumped.

I put a new rebuilt dist in there, Is it possible its not running properly.

Plugs are new.

Toobs · 06-11-2005, 01:25 AM

Check your:
-EGR Modulator and valve are working correctly. (See BGB)
-TPS is aligned properly (See BGB)

If the EGR valve is stuffed and recirculating under heavy load your engine could lean out and knock which would cause the ECU to retard timing heavily.

pixelpadre · 06-11-2005, 08:59 AM

EGR valve is more than stuffed, the bottom half of the housing is completely eaten by corrosion. Is it possible to cut it out of the picture?

pixelpadre · 06-11-2005, 02:33 PM

OK, I pulled the o2 sensor out and it ran like a tiger, and no more overheating.

So whats clogged on my 89 celica st 3s-fe?

I put it on a lift and there are a bunch of different pipes. There is one that feels rock solid. Its long and skinny (about two feet long), but I'm not sure that is the catalytic converter since its only about3 inches in diameter. I'm not sure where the converter is and/or if it is the problem or that 2 ft long pipe that tsounds solid when i rap on it.

I am so close............

Toobs · 06-12-2005, 12:32 AM

Without an EGO sensor your car will probably run rich... this may counteract the leanout from the stuffed EGR valve.
You can disable the EGR system, just remove it and block off all the holes and hoses that were previously going to it.
Might not pass emissions afterwards though.

pixelpadre · 06-12-2005, 04:12 PM

Fredk got it all figured out. IT WAS THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. AND ITS ON THE BLOCK NOT IN LINE. I HAD TO TAKE MY VACUUM CLEANER PIPE AND BEAT IT WILDLY INSIDE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER TO CLEAN IT ALL OUT AND WOWWWWWWWWWW WHAT A DIFFERENCE. NO MORE OVERHEATING AND PURE POWER ALL THE WAY. NO HESITATION AT ALL.

POWER LOSS PLUS OVERHEATING EQUAL BAD CATALYTIC CONVERTER.

MY 1989 CELICA ST RUNS LIKE A RAPED APE.

THANKS FRED.