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Originally Posted by black99
Ahhh, very good info, but another change. I will be doing the Big Three and 'matting the front doors and trunk myself (hopefully by the end of Thanksgiving). My hockey coach is going to be making my sub box, but I need to know how to make it right. Im not really sure what the specs woud be for 2 12"s with probly a 15 degree tilt on it. I am gonna make the box then have the face of the box continue all the way to the sides of my trunk. So itll be like this:
_________
l l la l
l l lm l
l l lp l
l-------( )---( )-------l
The box will be like this: (like a 15 degree tilt)
l---------l
l l
l l
l l
l l
l-------------l
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Take some measurements of the space you have available. Factor in the divider for the hockey sticks to go through. And keep in mind the opening in the trunk to get the box in there.
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I could probly spend like $400 at most for components and probly like $450 at most for a good amp for my comp's and 6x9's. I dont think Ill be able to spend more than $600 on my sub amp
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Damn nice budget. You don't need to spend that much for a sub amp though. I would go with a pair of MB Quart RAA2400's. A pair is 500 shipped @ crutchfield. One for the front components, and one for the two subs. They do 200 watts rms x 2 @ 4 ohms , and 800 watts rms x 1 @ 4 ohms bridged. For components in the 400 range you can get Seas Performance Components @ mobilesq.com, you can get new Oz Audio Matrix Elite's for low to mid 300's, MB Quart QSC-216 components for 400, or about half that with the same great tweeter as the QSD/QSC kit, you can get the PCE-216/PSD-216 components from MB Quart.
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I would prefer seperate amps for my subs and speakers.
How would I wire the amps? Why wouldnt I need a 4 channel amp for my speakers and run it to my comp's and 6x9's? Then a 1 channel for my subs and bridge? them?
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You can get a 4 channel amp for the fronts and rears. The RAA4200 is good 100 wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms. I prefer no rear speakers at all. But you can get some coaxials speakers that will work good off headunit power. I'd use a 6.5" coaxial as compared to a 6x9 though. Just make a speaker baffle/adapter out of MDF.
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Should I get a better H/U?
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Only if you think you might want to try wiring active when you get more experienced. But for controlling a system when the components are wired passive using their included crossovers, the Alpine will work fine. For an alternative that will allow you to upgrade and have beeter SQ than the Alpine, look into the Pioner
Premier DEH-P860MP.
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I wouldnt mind getting a set of subs that are cheaper if they are the same quality and same sound. I like the name, thats why Ive only stated JLAudio.
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Well those ADS subs on ebay are a great deal at 93 bucks shipped. Or the TC Sounds TC2+ 10" for 99 bucks at
www.oaudio.com or the Dayton Reference @ partsexpress for like 99 shipped.
Before you buy anything though you need to make sure they all work with each other. Here's an ohm calculator to mess with
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wiringwizard.asp
If you can find some W6's for cheap, go for those.
