Please explain "Claying"

[Back40]

Jumped the gun before I saw the section on Claying in the detailing thread. Sorry.

[boone]

http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=14

Here's a good overview.

[RningOnFumes]

Claying

Watch this video. Clay Bar Paint Saving System
When contaminants get a solid grip on your Tacos paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.

Automotive paint cleaning clay offers many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. Even in the hands of a first-time user, clay is safe and easy to use. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, compounding, or using harsh chemicals, clay is safer, faster and easier.

Most auto stores carry some brand of Clay Bar Kit. They are all pretty much the same. Clay Magic and Mothers' are good. I like Meguiars Clay Bar kit because the clay bar is a little bigger and easier to hold, but it's more expensive.

Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination. The clay bar will not last forever. As you use it, it will get full of contaminants. It's up to you when you throw it away. I might do a full clay job 5 times before I throw it away. But if you are claying an older vehicle you might get less life out of the clay.

When I can no longer remold clay to get a clean surface, I retire it for use on my windows. The dirty clay will not harm glass, and it's amazing how much dirt film clay can remove from your exterior glass windows. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners. BTW, my favorite window cleaner is Meguiars NXT window cleaner. It's not a real strong cleaner, but it doesn't leave streaks if you use it with a microfiber towel.


One of the main reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. Clay will also remove tree sap, paint overspray, and tar. On thick tar I will use a gentle solvent like bug and tar remover or Goo Gone.

Don't drop the clay on the ground. You don't want to pick up any dirt or gravel. If the clay is sticking or not sliding easy, then you need to spray more lubricant. Be liberal with the lubricant. It doesn't hurt if it runs down the paint. The lubricant might leave a hazy film, which is just a light wax, but it is easily removed. I don't even worry about it. I go from claying straight to waxing. The wax will remove it. You can also use soapy water if you run out of spray lubricant.


The video should answer most of the other questions on how to use a clay bar.

That is from PB2theMaxes' Stickie on detailing. the post is here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t126755.html

[Back40]

Thanks boone. Now to find the stuff locally.

[exceldetail]

What is "claying" and is it safe?

No complete detail is complete unless you have "clayed" your vehicles surface. Kind of a strange name for a product, but I assure you its completely safe when used as directed. It can be rather intimidating if you have never used before, but once you have, you’ll wonder why you waited so long.



Clay is designed to pull contaminants away or simply sheer them from your paint surface, safely, and this is accomplished with ease. So what equipment or materials is needed? There’s no equipment needed at all! All you need is clay, and a lubricant, and a micro fiber towel for wiping upon completion. Now you can skip the towel if you elect to clay while washing. There are many brands of clay available, and at least two are usually available at your local auto paint supply store or Automotive parts store (Kragen, Pep Boys). Meguiars makes a new version, better than its preceding version, Mothers makes a nice kit, comes with the clay, a lubricant (Showtime QD), and a small sample of Pre Wax Cleaner. The original Clay Magic I believe still comes with a lubricant as well. Make sure you buy or are using “Fine grade” in the beginning stages.



So lets get started !

Lets assume, it’s the beginning of summer, and you want your ride looking the ultimate! You begin with your normal wash routine (see above washing techniques), you’ve removed any tar, gum, and assorted crap stuck to the lower panels with a citrus cleaner or tar/adhesive remover (3M comes to mind). Now you have dried the surfaces with a waffle weave drying towel, and "she" looks good, you rub your hand along the top of the hood, and you feel what seems like specs of sand (If you think it feels good at this point, put your hand in a sandwich baggy)..... Close analysis, its actually tiny bits of metal (Brake linings, rail dust), or just normal industrial fallout. Its inescapable, pollutants happen to everyone, and the reason we need to remove these pollutants is, metal contributes to rust, and once rust starts, it’s usually not good! Not to mention physical appearance anyway.

Make sure your working in a shaded area, on a cool surface. Once you get started, the whole process can be completed in about ½ hr. Lets start with the hood. Unwrap your clay product, and take about 1/3 to ½ of it in the palm of your hand. Place the other portion back in the wrapper it came in, you may need this in case you drop the 1st half. If you do drop it, discard it. Spray the lubricant on about ½ to 1/3 of the surface, just as you would while quick detailing it. Take the clay in your hand and knead it until its somewhat soft. Mold to about the size of a small pancake, and place at your fingertips for easy control. Gently place the clay on the surface and glide it back in a front to back motion (grill to window). Use about 10-12 inch passes and overlap each pass. Fold the clay and re-knead after each area has been cleaned. You will feel some resistance at first, but with passing motions, you’ll be able to tell the clay is removing pollutants! If you feel too much resistance, your either not using enough lubricant or your surface is REAL dirty. A good way to tell you’re not using enough lube or if your surface is too warm, is if the clay is leaving product on the surface. This can be removed, with a micro fiber towel. After each area has been clayed, wipe and buff dry with a micro fiber towel.

Clay will remove a portion of wax or sealant protection, so you should follow up with polishing and sealing/waxing.



Clay is not a polish! It will remove contaminants, small areas of road tar, road paint, over spray, fallout, and light oxidation. Any areas larger than an pencil tip should be cleaned with a safe cleaner prior to using clay, otherwise you will end up polluting your clay for future use. You should be able to clay your surface half a dozen times, depending on the quantity of contaminants.


(http://exceldetail.com/Howtos.html#anchor_14)

[Bluzman]

I used clay for the first time this weekend on my truck. It is well worth the extra time. I could not believe how smooth it left the paint!!

[Pb]

If you've got an older vehicle that's never been clayed, you'll really be surprised with the results from claying.

There's kind of a satisfaction when you hear that little sound of claying. It's hard to explain if you haven't done it, but there's a sound that it makes when the clay bar shaves off the contaminants.

[exceldetail]

Not to mention how smooth it feels!