how can i fix this paint problem ?

[nobitanobi]

hi, how can i fix this paint problem without spending too much money, otherwise i dont think its necessary to repaint an old car. Thanks

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/1821/painttg9.jpg

[nuchieboy]

clay it and use a high speed buffer and see if u can restore the finish

[nobitanobi]

I will try that, thank you.

Can you recommend me a type/brand of clay? As for the buffer thing, I should be able to get one for cheap at normal stores like Home Depot and etc correct?

Thanks again for the fast response.

I will also try others as backup if someone else can show me another route

[ToyotaJimD.]

Your clearcoat is failing... using clay and buffing will do little or nothing for you other than remove some of the chalky edges of the clearcoat in the transitions from where there is only base coat.

Basically, at this point, you're looking at a paint job.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... this is why regular waxing is important.

[lininator515]

try claymagic which i hear works better than megs. you can pick that up from any local auto store. as for the buffer, i would go for a rotary, primarily a portercable. it's hard to tell from the picture but that almost looks like clearcoat failure.

[toyomoho]

Take to a good paint shop and get some idea of what is going on. Do a Google search on clear coat peal (this has happened before). If the clear coat is pealing, you will be buffing the paint. Suggest you not damage the paint anymore until a paint shop states it is hopeless or can be repaired, etc.

[Pb]

Yeah, your clearcoat is missing. Polishing would add some gloss, but you'd have to be careful polishing an unprotected base coat. To really fix it you need to get it repainted.

[nobitanobi]

I will try to work on the edge first, prevent it from spreading any further. It can't get worse I think lol. Thanks for all your input, have a good day

[VietGuhTrippie]

hey i took this from a different forum hoping this will help you out. The guy is a pro detailer and you can check his site out at http://www.detailedimage.com . It'e a great site, you should definetly check it out. HOPE THIS HELPS, enjoy.

To get quality results you'll want to wetsand the area. I'd suggest grabbing 1500grit, 2000grit and 2500/3000grit sand paper. Soak them overnight prior to the wetsanding.

Treat the area with a thorough wash dry, claybar (if you have it available) and rub the area with some isopropal alcohol. What this will do is properly prep the surface as well as remove any remaining wax / protection on the surface.

If you are going to apply more clear coat do that now. Let it cure for 24-48 hrs before wetsanding. Multiple coats may be required for a uniform look.

Starting with the lowest grit sandpaper begin to wetsand the area, using a dab of automotive shampoo on the surface to help with lubrication. Mist the area with water or redunk the paper in the water to ensure a properly lubricated surface. Continue wetsanding with each grade of sandpaper going as high as you can.

When you are done you will be looking to remove the wetsanding marks. For this you will need a compound. I personally like using Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover Line. It comes in 4 grades of aggressiveness. SSR 3, SSR 2.5, SSR 2 and SSR 1 (from most aggressive to least aggressive). To remove wetsanding marks you generally need at least the SSR 2.5 or SSR 3 and make sure you follow up with the SSR 1 to clean up any remaining haze. An off the shelf brand I'd suggest would be 3M.

After obtaining the proper finish that is desired by using the different Polishes / Comounds, remember to seal in your work with a sealant or wax.

Hope this helps, let me know if you wish for me to elaborate on anything.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

Usually what you would do is treat it like a touch up, overlapping the loose, dead clear coat with the new clear coat, then wet sand it down. If its really bad, feel free to do some light wetsanding to remove any of the really dead clear around the edges.

Buying a Porter Cable buffer is a solid investment because its one of the few random orbitals that can generate enough heat and power to generate results similar to a rotary buffer without many of the downsides and worries of a rotary buffer. Honestly I wouldn't put my money anywhere else. Cheap buffers are fine for applying a glaze, sealant or wax, but not effective when trying to remove imperfections in your paint such as swirls, scratches, oxidation and water marks.

This is an excellent alternative though to buying a Porter Cable if you plan on continue to do work by hand.

Lake Country Hand Pad Kit

It gives you the ability to use the same type of pads as you would with the Porter Cable and tailor each pad to the job you are doing.

Yellow Cutting Pad for abrasive polishes when you are trying to remove scratches and swirls

White Polishing Pad for finishing polishes to clean up hazing or very light swirls

Blue Finishing Pad for finishing polishes or glazes

Black Finessing Pad to apply a sealant or wax.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image