Long story short, we took our new Tundra off-roading, got stuck on an ATV trail and pretty much bottomed out on rocks/ran over bushes/made new roads for a good 3 hours, so the thing is pretty scratched up; However, the scratches aren't that deep (bush scratches only -- there werent any trees, luckily).
So what's the best method of getting them removed? I've never actually had my car keyed or anything else, so I've never had to deal with it before. And how much does it cost?
By the way, this truck is the most badass thing you can buy. I've been in GMC/Chevy's top trucks (including turbo diesels) -- this one hits the spot far better. The normal suspension version even off-roads where you wouldn't take most jeeps. The features are all flawless and there's nothing more we could ask for. 10/10.
Long story short, we took our new Tundra off-roading, got stuck on an ATV trail and pretty much bottomed out on rocks/ran over bushes/made new roads for a good 3 hours, so the thing is pretty scratched up; However, the scratches aren't that deep (bush scratches only -- there werent any trees, luckily).
So what's the best method of getting them removed? I've never actually had my car keyed or anything else, so I've never had to deal with it before. And how much does it cost?
By the way, this truck is the most badass thing you can buy. I've been in GMC/Chevy's top trucks (including turbo diesels) -- this one hits the spot far better. The normal suspension version even off-roads where you wouldn't take most jeeps. The features are all flawless and there's nothing more we could ask for. 10/10.
Thanks all.
What color is it?
Also, are you looking to do the work yourself? If so, by hand or with a buffer?
If it's black, it's going to take more time and skill. The lighter the color, the more forgiving it will be for scratch removal.
Scratches can be removed by hand, but it's a lot more work than using a machine.
The truck is silver. Looking to do the work myself, yes (as there will probably be a lot more later on). I don't know the differences between hand and buffer (obviously buffering it sounds like it saves days time), so I can't say.
The truck is silver. Looking to do the work myself, yes (as there will probably be a lot more later on). I don't know the differences between hand and buffer (obviously buffering it sounds like it saves days time), so I can't say.
Please give me more guidance on this.
Thanks again.
Good advice by Pb but if I could add my 2 cents...silver is a very forgiving color, you should have no problems getting those scratches out!
Start out the cheap way (doing things by hand) and if you find it's too much work, spring for a buffer. I use a Dewalt DW849, but there are lots of machines out there that do the job.
BTW, a buffer is basically a machine that spins a pad that does the polishing, versus your arm and hand doing the polishing. You can get a cheap one (not recommended) for $30 or $40, a decent one for +/- $200, or a super-crazy-nice one for $400+ (one example is the Festool).
I will be a vendor tomorrow and I will recommend some polish for you.
had a rotary buffer..that thing is the worst shit i ever used. it scratched the shit out of my carbon-fiber hood. so i decided to hand wax it.
The buffer is only one component of what can damage your paint in the polishing process. The polish and method you use have a lot (actually more) to do with the end result.
When we do car shows, we have kids use buffers for the first time to polish our demo hoods and they don't damage the paint.
More than likley, you were using polish that was too aggressive (like compound), a bad/dirty pad or your buffer wasn't speed regulated.
However, I do admit that DA's and RO polishers are more forgiving.
i used a black and decker rotary buffer..any suggestions really? i mean it could have just been the way i was using it. lol
1. Speed kills. If you buffer doesn't have speed control, you're asking for trouble.
2. Compound kills. Don't use it. EVER. The stuff should be illegal to sell.
3. Pads can kill. The wrong pad or a dirty pad can give you poor results.
4. Poor methods can kill.
Hmmm...a carbon fiber hood. Is that thing gel-coated? If so, it should come up nice with a quality polish and pad done at the right speed.
i am not sure if my cf hood was gel-coated or not. that could b y. but then again, i probably f'd my hood up so bad from the buffer. i'd still looks good from a distance but when u get close up u can see the scratches.
Rotary buffing can be a great tool if you know how to do it right. dont be crankinn up to 3K rpms or somethin... I usuallyy polish around 12-1600 with meguiars products and polishing or light cutting pads. Anyway to the otehr guy who started this thread good luck with your tundra man. Try some meguiar's scratchX by hand with a foam applicator and alot of passion! Clay the truck first. Then put some good wax on it. (meguiar's NXT, nattys, whatever).
Good advice by Pb but if I could add my 2 cents...silver is a very forgiving color, you should have no problems getting those scratches out!
Start out the cheap way (doing things by hand) and if you find it's too much work, spring for a buffer. I use a Dewalt DW849, but there are lots of machines out there that do the job.
BTW, a buffer is basically a machine that spins a pad that does the polishing, versus your arm and hand doing the polishing. You can get a cheap one (not recommended) for $30 or $40, a decent one for +/- $200, or a super-crazy-nice one for $400+ (one example is the Festool).
I will be a vendor tomorrow and I will recommend some polish for you.
Be sure to apply wax when you're done!
Oh yeah...I'm a vendor now! Try some SYSTEM ONE polish and if it doesn't work, I'll refund you the purchase price (see my website for details).
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