Cordless Polisher/buffer.

[naturoses]

Hello All, I live in an apt. complex and park under the roof of the sky hence require cordless !.

I have Toyota Highlander (Brand new - Magnetic Metallic Grey).

I am looking to wax and polish my car myself. Could somebody suggest me a good one.

After intensive searching I found these three cordless products:

1. Velocity Waxer:

YouTube - Velocity Waxer

YouTube - Velocity Waxer

YouTube - WashStick - Ionic Clean - Velocity Waxer

YouTube - WashStick - Ionic Clean - Velocity Waxer

2. Fti #565095 MM 18V Cordless Polisher/MASTER MECHANIC 10" 18 VOLT CORDLESS POLISHER 565095

Amazon.com: Fti #565095 MM 18V Cordless Polisher: Home Improvement

MASTER MECHANIC 10" 18 VOLT CORDLESS POLISHER 565095 on eBay!


3. Waxmaster Buffer / Waxer / Polisher 12 V Cordless

Waxmaster Buffer / Waxer / Polisher 12 V Cordless : eBay Motors (item 280428944549 end time Mar-24-10 21:50:18 PDT)

4. NEW RYOBI 18V 18 VOLT BUFFER WAXER CORDLESS P430 6" CAR

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-R...motiveQ5fTools

5. 24V Cordless Orbital BUFFER Auto Car Detailing polisher

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/24V-C...Q5fAccessories

6. cordless orbital buffer SIMONIZ auto detailing polisher

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cordl...Q5fAccessories


I want to speed up my job and of waxing or sealant for better to best shine and protection after wash. Not for paint correction or removal of swirls etc.etc.,

Please suggest, advice... Very eager to hear from professionals like you.

FYI: I did post this at autopia as well, and I am still waiting to hear from them.

Thank you Thank you

[searle]

Originally Posted by naturoses

... I am looking to wax and polish my car myself. Could somebody suggest me a good cordless polisher/buffer ...I want to speed up my job and of waxing or sealant for better to best shine and protection after wash. Not for paint correction or removal of swirls etc.etc.,
...

Polishers/buffers are most typically needed for minor paint correction (swirls etc), and rotarys for major (professional) corection. If all you are doing is applying wax then you can do that by hand quite easily - and to make it even easier you can use a liquid wax/sealant. After lightly applying wax (THIN COAT) let it haze and then just wipe gently to remove, you DONT want to "buff" with pressure (either by hand or machine) since that pressure may introduce swirls or scratches. Yes, you can use a DualAction Orbitor (DA) to help speed up the wax-application or wipe-off process if you want, but with a liquid wax (or synthetic sealant) it really is not necessary at all. Heavy pressure buffing will NOT make the finish shine any better, all the "buffing" is required for is to gently wipe-off the hazed wax and leave the final wax layer.

What do you mean by polishing/buffering? Those terms are used by diffrerent brands to mean very diferent things. Mothers uses "polishing" to describe the lightly abrasive action of cleaning/correcting paint defedcts. Meguiars uses "polishing" to describe appliing glaze/oils (after cleaners but before wax) to enhance wet-look depth. Many users use the term "polishing" to mean waxing.

IF you get some sort of machine, I strongly recommend a DualAction Orbitor and NOT a cheap spinning (rotary) since single axle spinning is much more likely to introduce swirls. Also be sure you do *NOT* use a wool pad/bonnet with any machine (except for very aggressive dcorrection) since wool has a very high likelyhood of causing minor swirls (especially as it gets gritty) - use only a foam pad.

Finally, remember that a great finish is *NOT* due to working in a wax, it actually comes from paint preparation. You can apply a $100 wax to a typical car and get an "OK" result, or properly prep your car and THEN apply a $10 wax and get a "WONDERFUL" finish.
- Spring and Fall you should detail prep the paint with a wash +claybar +paintCleaner (like Meguiars SwirlX or Mothers Prewax-Cleaner), this paintCleaner step is where a DA really can really help.
- Then (optionally) wipe on/off a glaze (like Meguiars DeepCrystal2 or Mothers Sealer-Glaze) to give that wet-look depth to red or dark colors (not very useful on light colors), and will make your metalic flakes sparkle.
- Then apply a liquid wax (probably a synthetic sealant), let it haze, then wipe off - and repeat a second coat of wax/sealant.
- After that, you just wash weekly and apply a spray-wax after washing to top-up the wax until your next detail. You can wash and re-wax every 1-2 months (without the full detail clay+cleaner+glaze).


In summary:
1) wash gets rid of surface crap
2) claybar gets rid of bonded contaminants and gives totally smooth surface
3) cleaner get rid of embedded contaminants and minor imperfections and oxidation
4) glaze has oils to fill paint micro-pores and gives wet-look depth and nutures paint
5) lightly applied wax (carnuba) or sealant (synthetic polymer) gives protection and glossy reflection

But remember, the wax/sealant just reflects the paint finish, your preparation is what makes that underlying finish truly great looking.

[eyezack87]

Not much for me to add since searle hit most of the points, but I wanted to say that the link to the second video reminds me of that roller paint thing they sold in the 90s. My dad bought one of those! rofl

[PolishAndWax]

No cordless product will give you enough power for a long enough period of time to do serious paint correction. A decent buffer consumes about 700 watts...the battery you need would be huge.

I use an inverter with a rotary buffer when I do demos. Might be an option for you...you can just connect it to your car battery. However, a 15-minute demo requires much less power than doing a whole vehicle and you might drain your battery. You'll have to do the math.

[iconman]

^^^

Agreed. Also you could perhaps use a long extension cord with a good random orbital.

[ToyotaJimD.]

My buddy uses a PowerBall 4Paint from Mothers on his highlander -- makes the job easy, and works great so long as you don't really have paint correction to do.

I really like the PoewrBall 4Paints.

[naturoses]

Originally Posted by searle

Polishers/buffers are most typically needed for minor paint correction (swirls etc), and rotarys for major (professional) corection. If all you are doing is applying wax then you can do that by hand quite easily - and to make it even easier you can use a liquid wax/sealant. After lightly applying wax (THIN COAT) let it haze and then just wipe gently to remove, you DONT want to "buff" with pressure (either by hand or machine) since that pressure may introduce swirls or scratches. Yes, you can use a DualAction Orbitor (DA) to help speed up the wax-application or wipe-off process if you want, but with a liquid wax (or synthetic sealant) it really is not necessary at all. Heavy pressure buffing will NOT make the finish shine any better, all the "buffing" is required for is to gently wipe-off the hazed wax and leave the final wax layer.

What do you mean by polishing/buffering? Those terms are used by diffrerent brands to mean very diferent things. Mothers uses "polishing" to describe the lightly abrasive action of cleaning/correcting paint defedcts. Meguiars uses "polishing" to describe appliing glaze/oils (after cleaners but before wax) to enhance wet-look depth. Many users use the term "polishing" to mean waxing.

IF you get some sort of machine, I strongly recommend a DualAction Orbitor and NOT a cheap spinning (rotary) since single axle spinning is much more likely to introduce swirls. Also be sure you do *NOT* use a wool pad/bonnet with any machine (except for very aggressive dcorrection) since wool has a very high likelyhood of causing minor swirls (especially as it gets gritty) - use only a foam pad.

Finally, remember that a great finish is *NOT* due to working in a wax, it actually comes from paint preparation. You can apply a $100 wax to a typical car and get an "OK" result, or properly prep your car and THEN apply a $10 wax and get a "WONDERFUL" finish.
- Spring and Fall you should detail prep the paint with a wash +claybar +paintCleaner (like Meguiars SwirlX or Mothers Prewax-Cleaner), this paintCleaner step is where a DA really can really help.
- Then (optionally) wipe on/off a glaze (like Meguiars DeepCrystal2 or Mothers Sealer-Glaze) to give that wet-look depth to red or dark colors (not very useful on light colors), and will make your metalic flakes sparkle.
- Then apply a liquid wax (probably a synthetic sealant), let it haze, then wipe off - and repeat a second coat of wax/sealant.
- After that, you just wash weekly and apply a spray-wax after washing to top-up the wax until your next detail. You can wash and re-wax every 1-2 months (without the full detail clay+cleaner+glaze).


In summary:
1) wash gets rid of surface crap
2) claybar gets rid of bonded contaminants and gives totally smooth surface
3) cleaner get rid of embedded contaminants and minor imperfections and oxidation
4) glaze has oils to fill paint micro-pores and gives wet-look depth and nutures paint
5) lightly applied wax (carnuba) or sealant (synthetic polymer) gives protection and glossy reflection

But remember, the wax/sealant just reflects the paint finish, your preparation is what makes that underlying finish truly great looking.

Searle, First, many thanks to you for sparing your time and writing to me. My sincere thanks to all others too who replied. Also, Forgive me for delayed reply.

As I said that mine is new highlander (Magnetic metallic grey). I will wash with hand and then wipe it. For wiping (drying), I would like to use chamois leather. It looks dry and not flexible, can we still use it?

I am planning to use the following:

1. Meguairs gold wash (already bought)
2. Wipe/dry with Chamois leather
3. Meguairs NXT2.0 (already bought)

Not planning to do Meg's Clay bar (already bought). It is tough to do this part for me.

So do you suggest me to go to Pro-detalier?

Thanks once again....

[searle]

Originally Posted by naturoses

... As I said that mine is new highlander (Magnetic metallic grey). I will wash with hand and then wipe it. For wiping (drying), I would like to use chamois leather. It looks dry and not flexible, can we still use it?

I am planning to use the following:
1. Meguairs gold wash (already bought)
2. Wipe/dry with Chamois leather
3. Meguairs NXT2.0 (already bought)

Not planning to do Meg's Clay bar (already bought). It is tough to do this part for me.

So do you suggest me to go to Pro-detalier?

Thanks once again....

Good questions.
- I would say consider buying a few microfiber towels (1 to wipe off wax, 2 for drying), they come in packages of 3 or 6+. They are not absolutely required, but are nice and will never scratch or swirl the paint.
- after washing, let hose slowly run water (no spray pressure) over car to encourage "sheeting" off water, makes drying much easier (especially after Gold wash, very nice). This will work almost perfectly after you get an initial coat of NXT2 on the car.
- then dab dry with a couple of microfibre towels (ideally, but can use CLEAN terry towel and VERY LIGHT pressure)
- consider buying a claybar kit (Meguiars or Mothers, includes spray lubricant), is VERY EASY to use, just spray then lightly wipe clay over the paint (after first washing car). Makes the car finish unbelievably smooth and is almost no work. you cannot go wrong, and this only needs to be done in spring and maybe again in fall (probably takes 15-20 mins to do whole car)
- you DONT need to go to a pro-detailer unless you have serious defects needing major correction. most people can a great job by themselves.
- not regularly, but each spring and maybe in fall, consider a light paint cleaning (after wash and claybar) with SwirlX to remove contaminants and this will ensure you have maximum paint preparation which gives that final above-average depth and shine to the wax. Doing this by hand is fine (probably takes 30 mins to do whole car), you dont need a machine, since you are just cleaning the paint and not trying to remove defects. As an alternative to SwirlX you could buy ColorX "wax" which includes a reasonable cleaner+glaze as well as Carnuba wax (but still top with 2nd coat of NXT2).

Basically, only need a little care and attention, CLEAN tools, and avoid wax or wipe pressure and then you will be fine. Relax, and have fun. Nothing like a couple of hours on a nice warm saturday morning to enjoy the experience of mini-detailing your own car - and you will be proud of what you can achieve. It will be close to what a pro-detailer will do (and better than some), much cheaper, and gives you a good feeling.

NOTE: *IF* you use a claybar, the only unbreakable rule is that if you drop the bar you throw it out. Dont try to clean it and re-use it after dropping.

[naturoses]

Searle: I did buy 40 microfiber cloths from BJ's. That's what I used for my first wash. These microfiber cloths are small and not big. But they do the job.

My car feels smooth after I washed and I did not feel rough at all with my hand. I did not do any plastic bag test.

I am planning to apply NXT2.0 after a wash nest time when it is little warm.

Regarding Pressure: I am washing my car with the following:

http://www.nomad2go.com/pressure-was...-cordless.aspx

The pressure is not really like so hard but it does the job for me.

Clay Bar: I am not really planning to do the first 6-8 months. But, please advice if it is necessary.

Thanks

[searle]

Originally Posted by naturoses

Searle: I did buy 40 microfiber cloths from BJ's. That's what I used for my first wash. These microfiber cloths are small and not big. But they do the job.
My car feels smooth after I washed and I did not feel rough at all with my hand. I did not do any plastic bag test. I am planning to apply NXT2.0 after a wash nest time when it is little warm.

Regarding Pressure: I am washing my car with the following:
http://www.nomad2go.com/pressure-was...-cordless.aspx
The pressure is not really like so hard but it does the job for me.

Clay Bar: I am not really planning to do the first 6-8 months. But, please advice if it is necessary.

Thanks

Claybar is not necessary, just nice.

AFTER you pressure-spray wash, disconnect sprayer and "rinse" car with water just lightly coming from the hose. It will greatly improve water sheeding and greatly reduce drying.

Have fun.

[naturoses]

Searle, Thanks, I will just do what you said.