Aquapel on Sun Roof-Headlights?

[adguy]

I have an 06 Avalon Limited.
I'm wondering if it is safe to use Aquapel or Rain X on the Sunroof. I would assume glass is glass, but I'm hoping someone here will know.


What can I do to prevent headlight haze? Is waxing with pure carnauba wax better than using
Armorall or some kind of plastic protectant?

Thanks so much.

[Seneca]

Rain-X gets mixed reviews around here. Some like it; others don't. I've used it on the windows and moon roofs of two Avalons (1st gen and 3rd) over the years without any problems.

Someone recommended Plexus Plastic Cleaner for headlight covers, and I tried it and like the results.

[MothersPolish]

Glass is glass, but avoid getting such products on the rubber seals. Read the fine print. Apply a good vinyl dressing afterwards for general protection.

Headlights should be protected with either a wax (if in like-new or in excellent condition) or a plastic polish (if there is oxidation starting) at least every couple of months if the car sees any exposure.

We have an excellent one-step plastic polish that is included in our PowerBall 4Lights kit, and also available separately. The kits are available at most Pep Boys, O'Reilly, and other fine auto stores.

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[adguy]

Thanks so much.
My headlights are beautiful, clear as a bell right now.
I just want to keep them that way.

Is it UV rays that cause them to dull?

I was reading about Stoners Invisible Glass online. It's a cleaner, but some people commented on how water rolls off the windshield.

[sequoiasoon]

Stoner's IG is just a cleaner (like Windex) but works much better. The UV is what kills the plastic on the lights as well as all the rocks etc. destroying the protective layer. If the headlights are nice and clear I HIGHLY recommend one of the protective films from either Xpel or Headlight armor etc. My headlights are nice and clear BUT I didn't get the one for the turns signals which are now beaten heavily due to abrasion from the sand/rocks. It really demonstrates the benefits of the films.

Rain-X and Aquapel both work great for any of the glass. I use Aquapel on the windshield and Rain-X on all the side/rear glass and sunroofs. My experience is that when you do need the wipers (around town lower speeds) the Rain-x tends to gum up on the front window where the wiper stops. Looks like garbage and the wiper hangs up on it. The Aquapel is a polymer coating that doesn't wear as fast as the silicone based Rain-x. Aquapel is more expensive and doesn't work as well at lower speeds. It starts working at about 45mph in my experience where the Rain-X starts at just over 30 mph.

I used to use Rain-X all the time on the front window (as well as the Rain-X windshield washer) but the washer fluid left stains and the gummy edge drove me crazy. Cost/performance makes it great for areas that don't get "wiped" constantly with dirty/grimy/gritty water like your windshield. I also use it on all my lights front/rear and mirrors.

[MothersPolish]

Yes, UV is what you're battling on every automotive surface, in addition to surface contaminants and the elements.

Protecting those surfaces with a sacrificial layer of wax, sealant (synthetic wax), dressings -- and in the cases of hard finishes, periodic polishing -- are the best defense.

The Mothers PowerBall 4Lights includes a discount coupon for the Xpel lens protection kit. The bonus with the Xpel is that it also greatly increases your protection against impact damage and road abrasion as well as against UV damage. Worthy of note: turn lenses, if they are separate from the headlamps, do not generally have the same "protective" coating as the headlamps, so they are sometimes more susceptible to road abrasion as sequoiasoon experienced.

Certainly do not use ammonia-based glass cleaners on plastic lenses, and you should probably avoid glass cleaners on plastic lenses in general unless they specifically designate they are safe for the coating on plastic headlights.

[adguy]

MothersPolish- you mentioned synthetic wax.
I use carnauba wax. Is that good for the headlights?

Thanks.

[MothersPolish]

Originally Posted by adguy

MothersPolish- you mentioned synthetic wax.
I use carnauba wax. Is that good for the headlights?

Thanks.

Sorry to confuse you, as I was just going through the various terms of wax (usually a natural carnauba wax but it could be anything) and sealant (a synthetic wax if one wants to be more specific). I really didn't need to be that specific.

For optimal results, we recommend a plastic specific product, either PowerPlastic or Plastic Polish depending on if you're using a PowerBall or by hand.

However, any layer of protection will be better than none, and there's nothing wrong with carnauba wax on your lenses that are in good shape, and it's easy enough to do while you're waxing the rest of the vehicle. Don't forget the other lenses, too.

Keep in mind that when it comes down to polishing, a plastic-specific product may yield better results in many situations, especially if anyone reading this has oxidation on their lenses.

[adguy]

I have a couple of scratches inside on the clear plastic over the gauges. Will Power Plastic or Plastic Polish get those out?

Thanks.

[MothersPolish]

Originally Posted by adguy

I have a couple of scratches inside on the clear plastic over the gauges. Will Power Plastic or Plastic Polish get those out?

Thanks.

These plastics can also be more finicky than exterior lenses, and sometimes we've had to follow with a finer polish like our Billet Metal Polish and coat it with Protecant (vinyl dressing) before buffing dry.

These types of situations require a careful hand because they are relatively close to you, and any flaw you leave behind (or introduce because of the polishing) will be visible, much like how you can see even the most minor flaw in some light. On one of my vehicles, the scratch casts a dark shadow on the white face of my speedometer, but in normal light I can't see it at all.

If you can get away with spraying some instant detailer on a very soft microfiber to give the finish a little gloss, sometimes that'll help and you'll hopefully decide you don't need to polish after all.

Maybe when I get back from the SEMA show, I can take a whirl at it, but the less you try to do with the instrument cluster, the better off you'll be, I think.