I'm creating a Christmas list of detailing products and amongst other things, I want to make it easier and more enjoyable for myself to polish/wax my car. I want something similar to the Mothers Powerball for Paint, the reason being is that I want to use a drill attached buffer to take a lot of the work out for me when I'm removing the wax. The only reason I suggest the Powerball is because I see it in the store all time, but I know that there is a lot more variety/quality available online. What do you guys suggest? I'm also looking for anyway to make the car washing process more enjoyable, convenient and quicker, so suggestions for that would also be welcomed!
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'03 Highlander V6 Limited 4WD, (0 to 175,548 Miles) SOLD (So sad to see it go! )
When I read the title of your thread, I thought your tools were getting oxidized!
But after reading it, I figured it all out.
I'll ask my brother today what he would recommend. He's done auto body for over 30 years and has done more buffing than he would prefer to do in his lifetime, so he knows what works better than other stuff. Problem is, he buys too much off the Snap-On and Matco trucks, so some of his tools might not be easy to find.
I'll let ya know what he suggests.
__________________ By the way, "Hairball" was a cat of mine.
Since I don't use the "GameRoom", can you just send me a check?
Wax removal should be done by hand -- not by machine.
The inexpensive random-orbitals that advertise that you can put a bonnet on it for removal are pretty much just trying to get you to buy their product by appealing to your desires. Bonnets will fill with product pretty quick and tend to bunch up, possibly causing marring. Add that to dangling cords and the cumbersome bonnet changing, they're really not for me I must say -- been there, done that.
Furthermore, if you find removing wax is a chore, you're probably using too much wax or letting it dry too long, or both. And you may be using the wrong wax for your particular routine.
And don't forget that body shop buffing is really paint finishing, and a fair bit different and much more costly than at-home detailing, and none of their equipment would be for wax removal.
I guess I should put into check how much wax I am laying down and how long I'm letting it sit for. What are the proper curing times for a natural carnuba wax and how do I know how much to put down?
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'03 Highlander V6 Limited 4WD, (0 to 175,548 Miles) SOLD (So sad to see it go! )
It should just be a thin, even coat, especially with pure carnauba wax. If you can see "trails" as you push product around, you're using too much. Only so much bonds to the paint, and the rest is excess that will create work for you, dust excessively and clog up more towels.
"Dry to a haze" in our terms is when it no longer looks wet, inspect with a light swipe of a finger and if it removes from the paint cleanly, you're ready to remove; if it smears, give it a few more minutes. This time depends greatly on product, humidity, airflow and temperature, and could be anywhere from 5, 15, or 25 minutes or more.
Here are some videos that may help you with some of your questions:
If you're a stickler for new-car finish paint, you can always pick up a clay bar kit. Mother's makes one as well (1 micro, 2 bars clay, 1 polish). One thing you may notice is that the clay will be saturated with contaminants, especially if you haven't clayed in a while. You may look into buying extra clay over ebay..
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2007 Magnetic Gray Camry LE V6:
Lit door sills, F/R cathode, trunk cathode, K&N SRI, IS250 chromes, LED tails/ bulb swaps, Katzkin leather
I already have clayed my car and know very well the advantages of using it. I am looking for ways to make the car washing process more enjoyable, quicker and more convenient. Any other ideas?
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'03 Highlander V6 Limited 4WD, (0 to 175,548 Miles) SOLD (So sad to see it go! )
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