Which wax?

[highlander123]

what kind of wax apply on your highlander?

[becks]

I use Zaino. They offer several. The particular one I use is:

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=10

It can applied in sun or shade. Won't stain plastics either. So if you get it on your mud flaps or plastic moldings, it's no big deal.
I don't bother with all the pre-wax steps they list on their site. Those I view as ones for folks that own $100,000+ vehicles.

[Loudog2]

I use Dodo juice(supernatural, supernatural hybrid, purple haze pro), wolfgang fuzion and pinnacle souveran. Right now I have a permanant sealant on(opt-coat) which lasts 3-5 years depending on storage and elements of coarse.

As for the pre-wax steps as stated above, they are needed. Polishing removes scratches, oxidation, swirls and etc that take away from the gloss of your paint. Otherwise you are basically putting lipstick on a pig. Claying remove stuck on debri that can get stuck in the applicator while applying wax. This will cause a large amount of scratches while applying a wax/sealant.

[CTB727]

Originally Posted by Loudog2

I use Dodo juice(supernatural, supernatural hybrid, purple haze pro), wolfgang fuzion and pinnacle souveran. Right now I have a permanant sealant on(opt-coat) which lasts 3-5 years depending on storage and elements of coarse.

As for the pre-wax steps as stated above, they are needed. Polishing removes scratches, oxidation, swirls and etc that take away from the gloss of your paint. Otherwise you are basically putting lipstick on a pig. Claying remove stuck on debri that can get stuck in the applicator while applying wax. This will cause a large amount of scratches while applying a wax/sealant.

100% truth right here.

[luck123]

+1 for Zaino polish (Z2 and Z5)...been using it for approx 11 years now, and have got so many people hooked on it, I should be getting a commission.

But I use a Optimum compound once or twice a year with Porter Cable 7424 to remove fine scratches and spider webbing. Tried the Zaino compound/polish and was not impressed.

Also apply it to my wheels. Makes them nice and shiny and extremely easy to clean.

[R1ceRocket]

Zaino doesn't impress me.

I just stick to Nu-Finish. Cheap, easy to apply, and only need to do it every couple months.

I don't require super great detailing though; I like it to be clean and water resilient, but I don't require my car to go through a 12 hour detail session. Too much money and time for me.

[luck123]

Originally Posted by R1ceRocket

Zaino doesn't impress me.

I just stick to Nu-Finish. Cheap, easy to apply, and only need to do it every couple months.

I don't require super great detailing though; I like it to be clean and water resilient, but I don't require my car to go through a 12 hour detail session. Too much money and time for me.

Sorry, but with all due respect, have you ever tried it?

You say Nu Finish is "easy to apply" but then you say "every couple of months". Maybe you have time to apply every 2 months, but I certainly don't with all the kids activities. I'm lucky if I get to wash my HL every few weeks!!

I apply Zaino about 3, maybe 4 times per year if lucky. And I have stuck with it for 11 yrs after using tons of other waxes/polishes prior to (including Nu Finish), because Zaino keeps the water beading and protecting the finish for a long time!

Not sure where you're getting "12 hour detail session, but the 'Zaino application' part is just as easy and quick as any other decent polish out there. I personally, only clay and mechanically buff in the spring (sometimes before winter if time permits...but not this year)....I book one day for myself just to do that. Kids and wife are on their own that day Other times, I wash, spritz and wipe down the paint with detailing spray, apply Zaino and wipe off. The detailing spray makes application and removal super easy.

Anyway, you like Nu-Finish, that that's your right. I tried it many years ago and don't. However, I also didn't mention that or bash Nu-Finish when I posted. Let's keep the advice to the OP constructive and based on fact.

Cheers.

[Seneca]

I've been using Collinite #845 for the last few years. Easy to apply, looks good and it lasts for months with good water beading.

For best results Collinite does need good preparation. I do a twice yearly cleaning with clay bar and polish topped with a couple of applications of Collinite.

[R1ceRocket]

Originally Posted by luck123

Sorry, but with all due respect, have you ever tried it?

You say Nu Finish is "easy to apply" but then you say "every couple of months". Maybe you have time to apply every 2 months, but I certainly don't with all the kids activities. I'm lucky if I get to wash my HL every few weeks!!

I apply Zaino about 3, maybe 4 times per year if lucky. And I have stuck with it for 11 yrs after using tons of other waxes/polishes prior to (including Nu Finish), because Zaino keeps the water beading and protecting the finish for a long time!

Not sure where you're getting "12 hour detail session, but the 'Zaino application' part is just as easy and quick as any other decent polish out there. I personally, only clay and mechanically buff in the spring (sometimes before winter if time permits...but not this year)....I book one day for myself just to do that. Kids and wife are on their own that day Other times, I wash, spritz and wipe down the paint with detailing spray, apply Zaino and wipe off. The detailing spray makes application and removal super easy.

Anyway, you like Nu-Finish, that that's your right. I tried it many years ago and don't. However, I also didn't mention that or bash Nu-Finish when I posted. Let's keep the advice to the OP constructive and based on fact.

Cheers.

I used the store bought Zaino (I guess it's the most general one?) based upon recommendation. I know Zaino has a whole product line with step by step applications, and such, and that was what I was referring to about "12 hour detail sessions". I prefer a good wash and a simple wax/polish application, not only due to time constraints, but also my laziness.

I applied Zaino and it was simple to use; almost identical to Nu-Finish in the process. A couple days later it rained and the water beaded up decently on the car, but left an immense amount of water/dirt residue after the car dried off. And then I washed the car again and found the car surface to feel completely void of any wash/polish.

When I used Nu-Finish on my other cars and bikes, it worked well and seemed to keep a nice coating on the vehicle for several months, even through several washings.

That's all I'm basing my opinion on; it just works for me. I've used some Meguires products before, as well, but again, there was just too much effort, so that is why I prefer the quick and easy Nu-Finish.

[2000-Avalon]

If you don't have the time to mess with frequent wax applications, don't bother with anything that is even remotely carnauba based, or any other "show" wax. What has always done the trick for me in the past is 2 coats of Collinite 476S. Make sure the surface is extremely clean, you don't sound like you have a buffer or time for any paint correction work, and that's OKAY. As long as the surface is clean (deironized, clayed, tar removed, and final wipedown with either IPA (50/50) or some type of paintwork cleanser), than you should be good to go and apply the wax.

Honestly, from my personaly experience, the 476 lasts longer than many paint "sealants" such as the popular BFWD or Menzerna PL. It also lasts longer than the Collinite 845, which although is easier to apply and remove, doesn't last as long. Collinite is cheap, so that's always a good thing.

My new favorite, however is Wolf's Chemicals Nano "body wrap". So much easier to work with than CQuartz, and lasts longer too.

[Zembonez]

Bring on the carwax voodoo specialists!

[2000-Avalon]

Originally Posted by Loudog2

I use Dodo juice(supernatural, supernatural hybrid, purple haze pro), wolfgang fuzion and pinnacle souveran. Right now I have a permanant sealant on(opt-coat) which lasts 3-5 years depending on storage and elements of coarse.

As for the pre-wax steps as stated above, they are needed. Polishing removes scratches, oxidation, swirls and etc that take away from the gloss of your paint. Otherwise you are basically putting lipstick on a pig. Claying remove stuck on debri that can get stuck in the applicator while applying wax. This will cause a large amount of scratches while applying a wax/sealant.

I would highly advice against using the opti-guard (AKA opti-coat 2.0) for anyone without a polisher. If you put this stuff on wrong, it will look like crap. If you get bird doo-doo on it and it etches through the coating, it will look like crap. Only use this stuff if you have a buffer so in case you mess up during application or have etching or other issues after application due to natural elements, you can always use a mild polish to remove the coating. It's really good stuff, but not for an average Joe who expects it to go on like a regular wax.

[CTB727]

Originally Posted by 2000-Avalon

I would highly advice against using the opti-guard (AKA opti-coat 2.0) for anyone without a polisher. If you put this stuff on wrong, it will look like crap. If you get bird doo-doo on it and it etches through the coating, it will look like crap. Only use this stuff if you have a buffer so in case you mess up during application or have etching or other issues after application due to natural elements, you can always use a mild polish to remove the coating. It's really good stuff, but not for an average Joe who expects it to go on like a regular wax.

Yeah, in order to apply Opti-Guard, the paint surface needs to be nearly perfect. All swirls and haze need to be polished out, and an IPA wipe down is a must otherwise the resin won't bond with the paint properly. However, since Opti-Guard is harder and tougher than factory clearcoat, it is more resistant to swirls and bird etching. If you do find bird crap, it must be removed immediately (Opti-Guarded or not).

But I agree, it's not for the average Joe. It requires someone with skill and some experience with paint correction.