1990 Transmission and other problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

ayaz · 01-18-2006, 11:01 PM

I just bought a 1990 Toyota Camry. it's a 4 cylinder. I started having some problems with it recently andI was hoping that one of you guys could hlp me out.

I noticed that when i drive and i get to theend of third gear (automatic) it tends not to shift into fourth, and when it does it will shift back into 3rd again. I thought that a drain and fill on the tranny fluid might do the trick but it didn't help. The mechanic said that the tranny seems good, so i was wondering if anyone might know of a sensor problem tha might cause this. I have also heardof a "kick-down cable". does this exist on the 1990 camry? could this cause the problem.

My second problem is that i noticed that sometimes the car feels like it's gonna"bog" out, when i try to drive off from a stand still. I feel like it's not gonna go when i press the gas then all of a sudden it will go, and then at the next stand still it will happen again. I also noticed that if i take my foot off the gas while the cars moving and then press the gas again, it may do it again. Could this problem be a fuel pump? I changed the plugs, wires distributor cap, and rotar, but the problem continues to occur.

And for my final problem...and the car is sitting idle the rpm will jump up and down between 2000 rpm and back to normal. It will do this for a bit then stop. anyone know what could cause this problem?

I know it's alot...but can anyone help me out with these problems?

thanks for the input guys...really appreciate it.

white90dx · 01-19-2006, 02:43 PM

I'll try this one...

How cold is it where you are right now? What does the temperature gauge read while you are driving? If its anywhere other than pegged right in the middle (ie, low), get your thermostat replaced. All those symptoms are similar to what would happen if the motor is running to cold... 2k rpm is the max cold idle, staying in 3rd gear is normal when the motor is cold (to help it heat up), and rough running could be caused by incorrect fueling...

For the second problem, it may be the ignition coil. They are known to develop cracks that cause problems when it gets damp/wet that are similar to what you describe.

Hope that helps,
Charlie

ayaz · 01-19-2006, 10:30 PM

Hey Charlie...Thanks for the response.

It's not all that cold that it should affect the driving...maybe -10 or -15 celcius tops...
The temp guage sits in the right position...dead centre...

in regards to the gear thing...well it happens more when it's warm as a matter of fact...

It actually feels like the overdrive switch is turning off...the reason i can tell this is cause when i am driving on the highway and the car is running properly...i tried turning the O/D switch off and the rpm shoots up to where it is when the car acts up at that speed. Does anyone know of any problems with the overdrive switch or sensor or relay or module...or am i thinking worse case scenario...and a shot tranny????

Please help!!!!!

jrock80 · 01-19-2006, 10:50 PM

Hmmm...I am having a differant issue with my 1990. I have about 140k on it now. Mine is a weird issue in so far as that sometimes when I dont come to a complete stop, say around 10-15MPH, then go to reaccelerate, its like the car is in neutral, like it doesnt know what gear to go in. The RPMs jump up to about 1500 or so for a sec and then it catches a gear. I thought it was the transmission going bad, the previous owner, by the looks of the fluid probably never changed it. So I took it to the local transmission shop, they rebuilt the whole thing. It still does the same thing. Its very frustrating to me because I spent a lot of money to have the tranny rebuilt and this is a very annoying problem. I usually either come to a complete stop or dont slow down to that speed range to avoid it. What controls the shifting? This happens in either normal or power mode. Is there a solenoid or something that just isnt engaging the correct gear when I slow down? I took it back to the transmission shop and they said they cant get it to do it for them. So I tried to take the tech for a ride with me and then damn thing wouldnt do it with me either. Then on the way home it was doing it. Anyone?

white90dx · 01-20-2006, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayaz

Hey Charlie...Thanks for the response.

It's not all that cold that it should affect the driving...maybe -10 or -15 celcius tops...
The temp guage sits in the right position...dead centre...

in regards to the gear thing...well it happens more when it's warm as a matter of fact...

It actually feels like the overdrive switch is turning off...the reason i can tell this is cause when i am driving on the highway and the car is running properly...i tried turning the O/D switch off and the rpm shoots up to where it is when the car acts up at that speed. Does anyone know of any problems with the overdrive switch or sensor or relay or module...or am i thinking worse case scenario...and a shot tranny????

Please help!!!!!

Lol... It NEVER gets that cold here... If it gets below 40F at night, its a cold night.

Well, then, you got me stumped. I'd still look into getting a new coil for the problem w/ bogging, but I don't know what's going on with the transmission.

-Charlie

Digger1 · 01-20-2006, 11:06 AM

Ayaz,

Re the "bogging" problem:

My memory is getting fuzzy, but I had an '85 Camry w/ the I-4 that had a similar problem. I busted my ass trying to fix the problem before I found the solution.

YMMV, but my old car had a small pick-up coil inside the distributor that sat on the vacuum advance plate (forgive the terminology - it is probably not correct as my memory of the problem is fuzzy). One of the small wires leading to the pick-up coil had a break inside the insulation. Every time the vacuum advance plate moved (i.e., every time I hit the gas from a stop), the wire flexed and I would get a momentary open circuit, thus cutting the ignition to the engine for a split second. Then, the wire strands would come back together and the engine would kick back in.

I won't tell you how many other things I replaced/"fixed" before I found my problem.

As I recall, the part was not cheap!

I hope this helps!

Donald · 01-20-2006, 09:49 PM

[QUOTE=ayaz]

I noticed that when i drive and i get to the end of third gear (automatic) it tends not to shift into fourth, and when it does it will shift back into 3rd again. I thought that a drain and fill on the tranny fluid might do the trick but it didn't help. The mechanic said that the tranny seems good, so i was wondering if anyone might know of a sensor problem tha might cause this. I have also heardof a "kick-down cable". does this exist on the 1990 camry? could this cause the problem.

My second problem is that i noticed that sometimes the car feels like it's gonna"bog" out, when i try to drive off from a stand still. I feel like it's not gonna go when i press the gas then all of a sudden it will go, and then at the next stand still it will happen again.

And for my final problem...and the car is sitting idle the rpm will jump up and down between 2000 rpm and back to normal.
QUOTE]

Ques # 1 - I believe a tranny rebuild or swap will be necessary. A swap will probably be cheaper if you get one off e-bay with low milage. Had to rebuild my V6's two months after I bought it at 135K miles.

Your O/D solenoid could be bad. The O/D light usually stays on if it goes bad, but not always.

The '90 does have a "kick-down" cable. To adjust it, have someone step on the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. On the cable that goes from the throttle linkage to the transmission you should see a rubber boot about 2" long. There is a metal slug on the actual cable (wire) that should just be at the end of the rubber boot. About half way in and out of the end of it. Adjust the outer cable by turning the two jam nuts on it till you get the slug where you want it.

Ques #2 & 3 - I believe that you have a vacuum leak.

Donald · 01-20-2006, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrock80

Hmmm...I am having a differant issue with my 1990. I have about 140k on it now. Mine is a weird issue in so far as that sometimes when I dont come to a complete stop, say around 10-15MPH, then go to reaccelerate, its like the car is in neutral, like it doesnt know what gear to go in. The RPMs jump up to about 1500 or so for a sec and then it catches a gear. I thought it was the transmission going bad, the previous owner, by the looks of the fluid probably never changed it. So I took it to the local transmission shop, they rebuilt the whole thing. It still does the same thing. Its very frustrating to me because I spent a lot of money to have the tranny rebuilt and this is a very annoying problem. I usually either come to a complete stop or dont slow down to that speed range to avoid it. What controls the shifting? This happens in either normal or power mode. Is there a solenoid or something that just isnt engaging the correct gear when I slow down? I took it back to the transmission shop and they said they cant get it to do it for them. So I tried to take the tech for a ride with me and then damn thing wouldnt do it with me either. Then on the way home it was doing it. Anyone?

My original tranny was doing the same. Rebuild fixed it many years ago. Now it needs it again.
The reason that it feels like it is in neutral is that it is loosing pressure internally. Either the pump is no good, or there are leaking internal seals.

I have a tranny that was supposedly rebuilt, but when I opened it up, all the seals were no longer round, they had flattened cross section. I rebuilt it myself with new seals and disks. soon I will install it and see if it works.

ArmyofOne · 01-20-2006, 10:45 PM

you could try adjusting the kick down cable, but chances are, its a bad O/D Solenoid.

ayaz · 01-21-2006, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArmyofOne

you could try adjusting the kick down cable, but chances are, its a bad O/D Solenoid.

Are the selenoids hard to get to??? are the expensive

90 Gen2 · 01-21-2006, 03:07 PM

In less than 15 minutes you could adjust and electrically test the Throtlle Position Sensor, and a replacement is pretty cheap, $40 or less IIRC. The factory service manual lists the specifications for resistance levels across its various terminals, but I don't have it handy right now. This is especially my best guess prognosis for the bogging off the line. The ECU doesn't know that you've opened the throttle plate, just knows that manifold vacuum is low. Once you get to higher RPM the bogging problem goes away, right? A weak ignition coil is probably as weak at 5K rpm as it is at 1K rpm, and only works OK around 3K.

ayaz · 01-21-2006, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 Gen2

In less than 15 minutes you could adjust and electrically test the Throtlle Position Sensor, and a replacement is pretty cheap, $40 or less IIRC. The factory service manual lists the specifications for resistance levels across its various terminals, but I don't have it handy right now. This is especially my best guess prognosis for the bogging off the line. The ECU doesn't know that you've opened the throttle plate, just knows that manifold vacuum is low. Once you get to higher RPM the bogging problem goes away, right? A weak ignition coil is probably as weak at 5K rpm as it is at 1K rpm, and only works OK around 3K.

Your right...it only happens at low rpms...once the cars running it doesn't do it anymore...also if the car is moving and i let my foot off the gas and press it again it feels like it's gonna bog when i first hit the gas..then it's back to normal.

Also if i accelerate slowly this problems doesn't happen.

thanks man...any input bout teh o/d selenoid???

jrock80 · 01-22-2006, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donald

My original tranny was doing the same. Rebuild fixed it many years ago. Now it needs it again.
The reason that it feels like it is in neutral is that it is loosing pressure internally. Either the pump is no good, or there are leaking internal seals.

I have a tranny that was supposedly rebuilt, but when I opened it up, all the seals were no longer round, they had flattened cross section. I rebuilt it myself with new seals and disks. soon I will install it and see if it works.

So this is an internal issue? I have taken it back to the transmission place 2 times now and they keep saying that they cant find anything wrong with it. I paid $1200 to have this problem fixed and its still there. They probably know what it is but just dont want to deal with taking it out of the car and fixing it again. I am going to take it back one more time and if they dont fix it, maybe I will write a letter to the the BBB.

Donald · 01-23-2006, 10:17 AM

Before you take it back, go to another transmission shop and have them do pressure tests, and a test drive and get their opinion. Don't tell them that it has been supposedly fixed. A good shop should be able to give you an idea of what is wrong before they open it up.

Go back to the first shop and tell them that you are not satisfied with the repair, and give them a chance to try again. Find out if they did pressure tests. Tell them if they cannot fix it then you will take it somewhere else, and if the other place fixes it you want them to pay for it. Try to be as pleasant as possible and not beligerent, but suggest that you will have to get lawyers and the BBB involved if you cannot get satisfaction or your $1200 back.

The symptoms that you described happened to my car only after it had warmed up and was off fast idle. Before buying it I was so pleased with the way the car felt in my very short test drive that I didn't give it time to warm up. Once it was warm and the idle speed droped, I would have the neutral spinup then slam into gear as I moved off from a stop.

jrock80 · 01-23-2006, 09:59 PM

Good idea. Mine doesnt do it from a complete stop, only if you slow down to about 10MPH or so then go to reaccelerate. Often happens when you come up behind someone at a light and then it changes green but you arent quite stopped yet. I will see what happens, the car is in great shape both mechanically and in its appearance. Probably the cleanest 90 I have seen around town, since it came from Florida there is no rust on it. Most of the other older Toyotas around here rust out before they stop running. Even my mechanic was amazed how a lot of the original stickers from assembly etc were still on the parts from the factory 16 years later.