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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-23-2006, 11:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Coolant leak from 1990 Camry

While I was doing the timing belt this afternoon, I noticed a small coolant leak. The lower radiator hose goes into a metal pipe that then goes into the thermostat housing. The junction of the metal pipe and the thermostat housing is where it is dripping from. I wondered if anyone knows of a good way to stop this leak one day soon when I drain it and remove the pipe for repair. JB Weld? Take it somewhere? Anything will be appreciated.

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Old 03-24-2006, 12:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There is an oring on the metal pipe that may need to be replaced. There is also a bolt that holds that pipe in place. When you were doing the timing belt youprobably took that bolt out to remove the thermostat to do the water pump, if you replaced the water pump. If you do get a new o-ring you can put a very thin layer of RTV sealant around it also.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

So there is actually an O-ring in between the metal pipe and the thermostat housing?

Will these parts just pull apart and, if so, do I just push them back together?

I did have to take the bolt off a few times that holds that pipe to the alternator bracket and I did replace the water pump while I was in there (along with every pulley/tensioner/cam & crank seals). If this is the O-ring that comes with a new water pump, I have two of those (and two thermostat gaskets/collars) because I had already bought a gasket for the thermostat and got new O-ring and gasket with the first new water pump (that was no good) and the second one.

I feel so much more confident about working on her Camry now that I have done all this work on it in the past few weeks:

Timing belt 4 times...lol....first with new belt (squealed and smoked)/second with old belt to make sure water pump was the problem/then with NEW new belt and NEW new water pump(still out of time from me not realizing the way I found it was not right)/then this last time yesterday and it is IN time and sounds awesome...YAY (only took me about 2.5 hours to put everything back from the belt this time). Also new water pump and pulleys and tensioner and grease seals

Removed plenum and did tuneup with all new components (I even have color-coded electrical tape on all the plenum removal connections and can take it off or put it on in about 40 minutes now if I need to do plugs, PCV, O2 sensor, valve cover, etc)

New valve cover gaskets

New radiator hoses with flush and fill

All fluids and filters

Replaced both front struts

Replaced one CV axle (other one fine)

Cleaned and regreased all front brake components

Thanks for all the advice Chris - my wife feels like her "rattletrap" as she called it (with all the strut noises) is like a new car - and hopefully from reading my experiences (or INexperience) someone else on here will benefit.

God Bless
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Old 03-24-2006, 10:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes there is a an o-ring on the end of the metal pipe where it inserts into the t-stat hosing. You should be able to just drain teh coolant and looen the bolt attached to the alternator braket and pull the tube out while still attached to the radiator hose. IF not you can for sure remove the hose and then get the pipe out.

Glad you feel more conifdent about working on it now. And to think for so long people said that Japanese cars were hard to work on and all taht good stuff. Youjsut ahve to be patient and pay attention to what you are doing and everything will be fine.

After replacing everything you ahve you almost ahve a new car. Glad your wife is ahppy now. Post up some pictures of it if you get a chance. You dont see many older V6 Camry's.
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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2nd Generation

Chris, you ARE the man.

It was exactly like you said. I removed the pipe and saw the end was tapered with an indent for the O-ring within about 1/8" of the end of it. The old O-ring had now almost stopped leaking (2 days of using the car and it heating up/cooling off I guess) but was flattened all the way around and really dried-out compared to the new one I put back in its place (with the light coat of RTV you suggested). Thanks again

God Bless
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Glad I could be of assistance again. GOod to know I am good for something on here.
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