Hard starting 2nd gen 2.0

[HomeGrown]

Hey guys, I'm looking for ideas / suggestions of what I might look at on this issue of hard starting. I just got this car on Saturday, with 42k original miles on the clock. Seems to run very good after it starts, but it sometimes requires 2 or 3 cranking attempts before it starts. When it first starts, it's running weak on it's own, until I rev it a little. Given the circumstances, it's probably due for some common maintenanc items, if not from mileage, from age. I'm thinking tranny service, fuel filter, plugs, wires, timing belt, brake fluid change....

Anything else I should look at that might address the hard starting?

I don't know much about the history, other than it belonged to a U of K prof. who inherited it from his father, then driven occasionally.

[atobe]

clean the throttle body and AIC..probbly won't need a fuel filter but give it a try...

[ASG14]

Sometimes the mpst simple things cause the stupidest issues. Could be as simple as a little water in the gas tank from sitting for a long time. when it happenes to me, it will usually start, idle under 400 for 2 sec and die. Next time I hit the gas, rev it to 2.5k for 2 sec and it's fine. I just add a bottle of dry gas.

But ALSO as you said, change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Change the Tanny fluid for sure (Due to AGE, not use). Timing belt should not need to be changed yet, even due to the age. check air filter (replace IF necesary). You COULD change the brake fluid if you want. I do not think it is a necessity. Run some SeaFoam through the brake booster vacume line as hell.

That has some crazy low miles on it. Hope it lasts a long time for you.

[HomeGrown]

Thanks for the input guys, sounds like some good suggestions. I never woudl have considered changing the brake fluid, but a buddy of mine swears by changing it every 3 years. Says the brake fluid is prone to holding moisture. That's pretty low on my list though.

[Tom 2000]

When I had my '88 LE, I had a problem with cold start with the car back around 1999. I would have to crank it for a long time.

It turned out to be a bad cold start injector time switch. That part was $116 at the dealer back then. Changed it and it started fine cold once again.

You can check to see if it's bad by checking the resistance if you have an ohm meter. I don't have a Hayne's Repair manual for that car anymore so I don't remember what the resistance # should be, but it's cheap investement.

Gen2 is a good car. Nothing fancy, but it was one of my favorite cars I've owned.

[Doctor J]

There should be 30 to 40 Ohms between teminals, cold.

[HomeGrown]

Appreciate that info on the cold start injector! Except that my car starts hard even if it it's still hot. If I shut it off for more than just a few minutes, it will start hard.

[Doctor J]

There are 3 checks you need to make:

1. Use spark tester or timing light to see that there is a spark dring the cranking;
2. Short B+ and Fp terminals inside diagnostic box with ign. on, engine off, hold like this for 10 seconds, then attempt to start the engine with jumper still there. If it starts right away, the problem is fuel delivery (fuel pulsation damper, pressure regulator, bad fuel filter,ect.)
3. Coolant thermo sensor circuit open causing flooded condition.

[HomeGrown]

GREAT info, Doctor J. Thank you, I will check those items!

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by Tom 2000

When I had my '88 LE, I had a problem with cold start with the car back around 1999. I would have to crank it for a long time.

It turned out to be a bad cold start injector time switch. That part was $116 at the dealer back then. Changed it and it started fine cold once again.

You can check to see if it's bad by checking the resistance if you have an ohm meter. I don't have a Hayne's Repair manual for that car anymore so I don't remember what the resistance # should be, but it's cheap investement.

Gen2 is a good car. Nothing fancy, but it was one of my favorite cars I've owned.

I agree with Tom 2000. Check the resistance of the cold start time switch with a DVM and the specs from any manual. The resistance will vary according to the engine's coolant temperature. Many generation 1 and generation 2 starting problems can be traced to an out of range cold start time switch. It is located under a brown plastic connector, next to a green plastic connector, in a metal coolant pipe that is just to the right (driver's side) of the engine block, if you are standing in front of the engine.

Mike

[88 LE]

Picture and specs of the cold start timing switch in thread below :

http://toyotanation.com/forum/t110961.html

[HomeGrown]

Originally Posted by Tom 2000

Gen2 is a good car. Nothing fancy, but it was one of my favorite cars I've owned.

Yep, exactly my thought. I'm REALLY liking this car! Other than the hard starting, it reminds me a lot of my 1981 Corolla, except bigger & nicer. Simple, basic, and smooth running.

During the month of June I was in San Antonio helping with the setup of the new Tundra line. I had an 06 Corolla S for the entire month. I was glad to get the Corolla, because I had been eyeing them on the road and was thinking about checking them out. I still find it hard to believe that I disliked that car so much.... I don't know specifically why, but I just didn't like it. Had a nice dash layout with white face gages. I think it was the lack of power and handling I was expecting. Just wasn't there. I would have taken my old 1981 Corolla over that '06 in a heartbeat.

[fredk]

check the coil for a good spark

[HomeGrown]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

There are 3 checks you need to make:

1. Use spark tester or timing light to see that there is a spark dring the cranking;
2. Short B+ and Fp terminals inside diagnostic box with ign. on, engine off, hold like this for 10 seconds, then attempt to start the engine with jumper still there. If it starts right away, the problem is fuel delivery (fuel pulsation damper, pressure regulator, bad fuel filter,ect.)
3. Coolant thermo sensor circuit open causing flooded condition.

Doctor J, I hope you're lurking about.

I checked the resistance of the cold start timing switch, and it was 74 ohms, cold

My ECT sensor was open, according to my DMM.

I did notice last week that when I went out at lunchtime to leave, I got a good cloud of smoke when it did start, and it wasn't oil, it smelled just like a rich engine starting. I'm assuming then that the ECT sensor is bad, although I'm not sure what sort of resistance reading I'd be looking for on a good unit.

Thanks fredk, I will be checking that as well.

BTW guys, are the wires & cap normally sold as an assembly for this engine? Looks like the wires are not made to disconnect from the cap.

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by HomeGrown

Doctor J, I hope you're lurking about.

I checked the resistance of the cold start timing switch, and it was 74 ohms, cold

My ECT sensor was open, according to my DMM.

I did notice last week that when I went out at lunchtime to leave, I got a good cloud of smoke when it did start, and it wasn't oil, it smelled just like a rich engine starting. I'm assuming then that the ECT sensor is bad, although I'm not sure what sort of resistance reading I'd be looking for on a good unit.

Thanks fredk, I will be checking that as well.

BTW guys, are the wires & cap normally sold as an assembly for this engine? Looks like the wires are not made to disconnect from the cap.

There is a generation 2 factory service manual stickied at the top of the general Camry forum. Download it for the specs of the cold start time switch and the ECT sensor.

Yes, the cap and wires for this engine are sold as a 1-piece unit.

Mike