Man, stuff goes wrong

[JRLCrist]

This is mostly a vent post.

I love my Camry. 1990 V6 Camry LE. Fully loaded. Thing is, seems like whenever I turn my back, I have a new problem.

Here's the list of things that are wrong. Some of you have seen them before, some haven't :-P

- My exhaust from the cat back is rusted and needs to be rebuilt (http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0280.JPG)
- I'm firing in 5 cylinders instead of 6 I suspect, as I don't have the power I should. One of the wires going to my spark plug is jammed really good and won't come out. I'm afraid to pull it too hard for fear of breaking it. (http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0276.JPG)
- A wire is severed in my front left wheel, and I suspect it's a brake sensor. (http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0271.JPG)
- My driver-side seat belt still hasn't been fixed (still haven't checked the ECU) (many of you have heard of this by now, I'm sure :-P)
- When I'm driving, my transmission kicks pretty hard when it shifts sometimes. I suspect something is wrong with my transmission, as it doesn't do this in my dad's 2001 Corolla.
- I can't figure out for the life of me how to mount my stereo properly. The previous owner must have forcibly removed it, because there's no real mounting hardware and the wires looked like they were just yanked on until they broke.(http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0270.JPG)
- My cigaret lighter doesn't work, which is a bummer because I have an inverter I'd like to use to run my laptop for GPS.
- My electrical is all screwed up. I tried to run a diagnostics and instead of the Check Engine light flashing, my O/D Off indicator flashed. Also, my passenger window and rear left window don't work (passenger side goes down on the switch, but you have to reverse the polarity manually to get it back up. the rear one just doesn't work) and my driver-side door lock doesn't work from the switch. Plus my keyless entry thumb thingy is totally busted.
- Not all the lights that show if you're in reverse, drive, neutral, park, etc work on the dash. This isn't too much of a problem until it's dark out, then I don't know if I'm in Neutral, Drive, or what.
- The light that comes on in the back whenever you open a door doesn't work. Period. Bulb is good, though.
- My wheels must not be balanced because whenever I go over 70, my car shakes pretty bad. Plus, when I hit my brakes, they squeel REALLY bad, and whenever I make a left turn they squeel like a pig on fire.
- My antenna must have been forcibly ripped off, because I can't for the life of my mount my new one. There's no wire to mount with. (See images below)
- My highbeams won't stay on. I have to hold the wand back in order to keep them on.
- My paint is a mess.... (http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0281.JPG, http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0282.JPG, http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0283.JPG, http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0284.JPG, http://www.legacyvisuals.net/car/000_0285.JPG)

I know that all I'm doing is complaining, but I'm sure someone here knows my frustrations. what did you guys do? How did you handle it? Any advice?

EDIT: Fixed my links

[Tommy]

lol, terrible man. Definatly feel for you though. With that many problems, best bet is to just take 1 thing at a time. Pick up the factory service manual, start tracking down what wires go to what. If you have to, hit the junk yard and take a look at one there, see what it has and yours doesnt.

What makes me worry is the transmission and the check engine condition. O/D light flashing means a transmission error.

You could probably get it all fixed, and generally parts are pretty cheap, just take one thing at a time, and dont be surprised if you find more things screwed up. OR you can do like a lot of people, and just drive it into the ground, save some cash from not fixing anything and buy another one in a few months.

[fredk]

did you know all this was broke when you bought the car, kinda sounds like when i was given my car when i got the tree off it and toed it to the shop, took me about 6 months to get everything right

[JRLCrist]

That's the thing, though. The owner said everything was fine and it ran fine during the test run, save for the seat belt and the windows. Then as I poked and prodded and drove it around more regularly, those things came up.

As far as the transmission, I'm not so sure they can be rebuilt or anything, and I don't know how much they cost and whatnot, or if it's something that I can/should get at a junkyard. I really thought it was strange when I shorted the two wires for the diagnostics and the O/D Off light blinked. It said in the Chilton's repair manual that the Check Engine light would blink so many times for a code. It doesn't say anything about the O/D Off light blinking. I suppose at that point it means I have to put in a new tranny.

This upcoming weekend I'm going to rebuild my engine with my mechanic buddy and replace my brake pads and rotors, as well as rework my electrical and do some body work. Hopefully with most of the car rebuilt, it'll work.

EDIT: That's a long time, Fred XD What kept you going with it? Did it all work out in the end?

[IvanHoe]

The car sounds like a basket case.....I might consider a different mode of transportation if I were you

[nuron]

The always bad cases in any make, no matter what brand and I think mines is kinda like that. I have that transmission indicator on the dash problem too, it only lights up in park . You could just memorize it I guess. My vents don't work, passenger window doesn't roll down, rust, etc. are all nagging problems but either I dealt with them (my suspension thread) or jst ignored it.

[fredk]

oh it all worked out, look up freds camry on cardomain.com, its an 88

[TBayToyotaBoy]

I gotta tell you, with this number of problems, I would assume that the last owner was either a drunk or just reaaaaalllllly neglectful. I've beaten the PISS out of my Camry (60,000K in the last eight months on ragged-ass country roads), and it's still not acting-up like that. The only problems are the wearable items like clutch, suspension, etc.

I work at a scrap yard and I see cars like this all the time--the old owner(s) was/were not kind to the car. If you don't have the patience to go through everything, buy another Camry in better shape (they're getting pretty inexpensive now) and make this car a parts car.

Oh yeah, as for your dome light: chronic problem with older Yotas, especially where winter salt conditions prevail: replace all four of the door switches which activate the dome light (little rubber boot covers them on the door jambs). That should fix'er...

[Doctor J]

Prior to bying any used car, the prospective owner must educate self how to diagnose /repair the problems. Otherwise, the spending for repairs will be much more then the car worth.
As I mentioned in one of my post, now days the cars are NOT build to last or sustain the abuse that had no effect on the early 70s cars.Instead of Camry wagon, I rather buy 81 Corona ( I like rear-wheel drives with solid axle).
Newer cars can much easier make 300 kMi in three years, then 150 kMi in 20 years (too much plastic, rubber, lifetime lubrication , nylon bushings, etc, etc, not to mention precise engine parts, that don't like to be disassembled).
One of my customers who was driving 78 Buick Skylark, blew the radiator hose, lost all of the coolant, overheated and froze the engine. As the car cooled down, he changed the hose, broke the engine loose with a breaker bar, and used the car for another 7 years without engine failure (he definetely scratched the cylinder walls, sure). You cannot imagine doing so on modern car!
As for the used car, the price is mostly based on the outside condition, most people do not sell excellent cars for low price.
As for the junkyards, I am frequently see there number of cars in a very good condition and there is where I am pulling the parts from.

[jcb62988]

I realize this is probably the least of your worries, but when you pull the "wand" back the highbeams are not supposed to stay on. You need to push it forward in order for the highbeams to stay on. Or do they not turn on when you push them forward either?

[fredk]

just forward they stay on, bad switch

[Doctor J]

With switch lever moved forward and headlight switch on, the high beams should stay on, until you pull it back.
If you pull lever toward yourself, the high beams will come on and stay until you release the lever.

[HomeGrown]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

.... now days the cars are NOT build to last or sustain the abuse that had no effect on the early 70s cars......

as I remember, anything from the 70's were no prize as far as durability or dependability. Plus, you could almost hear them rust on a quiet night. What aspect of the cars are you refering to Doc?

JRL, you need a couple of brackets to properly mount the stereo. It is a double-DIN opening, and there is usually a small plastic stash box built into the lower end of the opening, with a single DIN stereo at the top. The brackets mount to the side of the stereo and also to the plastic structure behind the opening, assuming everythig is still intact. You MAY be able to get some of those brackets from Wal-Mart, but I'm not sure.

[Doctor J]

" as I remember, anything from the 70's were no prize as far as durability or dependability. Plus, you could almost hear them rust on a quiet night. What aspect of the cars are you refering to Doc? "
I was lucky enough to drive some great ( at my opinion) cars of the past. They had oversize radiators, bearing inserts for the cams, wider gasket sealing surfaces and, most important, were build with easy service in mind.
On 94 Nissan Altima you have to pull the engine from under the car, and on 96 Contour the radiator is replaced from under the vehicle.
Older station wagons had solid rear axle and leaf springs that stood up for the car's ability to carry heavy loads in it.(75 Toyota Corolla)
And interior of 1966 FIAT 124 was much roomier then on Toyota Tercel despite the similar size class. By the way, many countries of the wolrd began to produce cars with the similar concept, such as famous Datsun 510.

[HomeGrown]

Ahh yes, they were DEFINATELY easier to work on back in the day. And I remember the 510, I think I still have a brochure or 2 showing it. Fiat 124 A.K.A. Yugo. I had one (a Yugo), and it really wasn't a bad car for all the bad publicity it received.