Questions on removing the cyl head on '86 Camry. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-20-2006, 07:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Questions on removing the cyl head on '86 Camry.

Do you remove the intake manifold first or can you leave it attached when pulling the head? What about the exhaust manifold? If you have to remove the exhaust manifold, can you leave the exhaust pipe connected and just shove the entire exhaust system back? Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2006, 09:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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this is similar to a question I had asked a little while ago, nobody answered me!!
maybe someone might have some knowledge of it??
BTW I think only the inlet manifold has to be romoved, although Im not sure about the exhaust yet.
tommorow I have time to work on my car so im gonna be taking off the head cover and cylinder head to replace the gaskets and give everything a needed clean
so I will let you know what I had to do
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Old 10-21-2006, 01:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
JUST RE ENGINEER IT
 
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leave everything hooked to the throttle body and the water housing with all the sensors on it and take them off the manifold and head, get it on tdc and take the cam gear off the cam, leave the intake on it and take the exhaust off to make it lighter, take head bolts out
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Old 10-21-2006, 09:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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NO NEED to take the cam gear off the cam. I just got the cam box off and all I needed to do was to remove the throttle body and a cable bracket to give enough room to lift the cam box straight up. Oh and you got to remove the valve cover because there are 2 cam box nuts under there.
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Old 10-21-2006, 08:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
JUST RE ENGINEER IT
 
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oh crap, he has an 86, thats a 2se isnt it?
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Old 10-22-2006, 02:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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^ Yup.

On a 3S-FE and 5S-FE, the camgear needs to be removed. You can't remove the metal plate (bolts onto the side of the head) and cams without removing the camgear.

The cams also need to be removed to unbolt the head, as the head bolts are underneath the cams.
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Old 10-22-2006, 03:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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sorry for butting in but its the same topic so I figured Id ask......
hey Atikovi I see you got a bit farther than me, I got a question for ya, or anyone else
I was trying to remove the cam box to get to the cylinder head but the cam box had a belt attached to the outer left side of it and it had a cover over the belt, I couldnt remove it
how did you get yours removed or is there a way of bypassing it.

check out http://www.cardomain.com/id/rockhard01 to see pics of what I mean "2nd page"
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Old 10-22-2006, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thats the timing belt which you have to remove before pulling the cam box. Before that you have to remove the timing belt covers. Some say you have to remove the engine mount next to it to get the upper cover off but after removing the cover bolts I was able to wrestle it out by force but it remains to be seen how I will be able to put it back. To get the lower cover off you have the pull the crank pulley. Any generic puller will work. First you raise the right side of the car and remove the wheel and a splash shield. Then you put 2 screws into the pulley and the center screw forced against the crankshaft will pop it off. Then just unbolt and remove the lower cover. Then just loosen the belt tensioner bolt and pry off the spring to release the tension so the timing belt will come off. It goes without saying that BEFORE you start, the engine must be at TDC with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley set at “0” and then place a reference mark on the cam pulley:



so you can put it back together correctly. Do the same for the distributor rotor:


Last edited by atikovi; 10-22-2006 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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when I first was trying to take it off I thought I might have to remove the eng mount but I wasnt sure cause you had already done it

say what would happen if the crankshaftpulley wasnt set at 0 or the dist rotor wasnt set and you tried to start your car

thanks for the help Atikovi
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It's like the cam timing would be off or the ignition timing would be too advanced or retarded and it wouldn't start.
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Old 10-23-2006, 03:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atikovi
To get the lower cover off you have the pull the crank pulley. Any generic puller will work.
Is it really necessary to remove the lower cover on a 2S-E? Couldn't you have just removed the upper cover and slip the timing belt off the camgear?

As for the puller, use a bolt on type puller. If you use a jaw type puller, you risk damaging the crank pulley.
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:21 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You can't just slip the timing belt off the camgear without relieving the tensioner.
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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^ I understand that. Just asking if its necessary to remove the lower timing belt cover on a 2S-E.

I've removed a head from a 3S-FE and 5S-FE. It was not necessary to remove the lower timing belt cover.
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't remember if you can access the belt tensioner with the lower cover in place. I'll have to put mine back together to check, but unless you know it has had a new timing belt put on in the last 15-20,000 miles, it would be silly not to spend a few minutes to get the lower cover off and put a new timing belt on.
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I got the head off and took it apart to lap the valves and replace the stem seals. While I'm waiting for the parts I ordered, I cleaned up the top of the block and pistons.
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