Changing 2VZ-FE Spark plugs

[BritishBodger]

I've just been assessing my chances of sorting out a serviec on my Camry. I've got a bit of a feeling it's due a set of plugs and leads, but the back set don't look at all easy to get to (being under an inlet manifold). Has anyone got any good tips?

Thanks in advance

[TBayToyotaBoy]

That back bank of plugs sure is a pain to do the first time! Don't worry, it gets easier once you've sorted-out the job for the first time. What you need is a "wobble" attachment for your socket set: it's a short, articulated extension that gives you up to 90 degrees angle with the ratchet.

1) Attach an extension to the spark plug socket (so it will fit all the way down into the spark plug bore);
2) Attach a "wobble" to the end of the extension, and then a second (shorter) extension on to the wobble.
3) Now you can fit the tools down behind the rear valve cover to remove the plugs--as long as your hands/arms aren't too big to fit under there!

Hope it works out for you. Cheers.

[csaxon]

Here's an old reference.

http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=10551

[BritishBodger]

Thanks for the information guys.

I notice that post is for a 1MZ - is it much different?

[marc780]

Here are some more tips, i did this gnarly chore and it CAN be done but only looks impossible!

Without removing plenum, I found The coil pack on # 4 has to be removed first, the pcv hose too. And there are two wires bolted to the plenum with a nut which are in the way and have to be removed. Then you can access the tough one, #5 plug behind the plenum. I accessed #4 and #5 from the passenger side, leaning on the fender which i covered with a towel first.

Harbor freight has a long long spark plug socket that is tailor made for this and it is $5. I found my sockets are either too long or too short even when used together. Its not fun but can be done.

Re the notorious #5 plug it took me about 30 minutes for this one plug. I used a regular foam insert spark plug socket, one small 3/8" extension and one wobble socket adaptor (which i could have gotten by without, but it made the extension just long enough).

And the most important tip: tape the sockets and extension together so they dont pull apart! I taped them together with duct tape and pulled on them to make sure they would not slip apart. Because the last thing i wanted to be doing is fishing for a spark plug socket back there where you can barely reach.

First i unclipped the wire from the coil, hope you have small hands like i do for this. Then i unscrewed the 10 mm bolt holding it onto the valve cover. I used a 1/4" socket wrench, a box wrench will work if you are very patient. I had to hugg the engine for this, i used my left hand to hold the socket wrench while i lay over the engine and looked through the gap by the plenum tubes and EGR. Then i stuck my wrench around back over the little bolt, and i could see the bolt and socket through the gap. Not dignified but effective lol
Undo the 10 mm bolt, when it gets loose grab it with your hand to do the last few turns so you dont drop it and lose it. Then twist the coil a little and it will pop up and out. Dont try to turn it at first, I pulled it straight out of its hole and then removed it plug side first.

Then I snaked the taped-together socket and extension round the back and slid it in the plug hole and over the plug. Then i reached behind with the socket wrench and pressed it on to the extension. The socket wrench should be shorter rather than longer, because if its too long you wont have much room to swing it.

Theres not much clearance to swing the socket wrench but there is enough, barely, but you will be going 2 or 3 wrench clicks at a time. Then when i was sure the spark plug was out i unclipped the socket wrench and pulled it out of the way. Then i pulled the sockets extensions and the plug up and out.
Antiseize on the new plug (i use anti seize on everything!) and it went in even easier than it came out. And i made sure to get it tight, its not easy to tell how tight you are getting it when you only have a couple socket clicks to feel it.
And then replace the coil - slide it in square end first and then stick its nose in the hole and drop it in. And then snake in the 10 mm bolt , for God's sake dont drop it - (if you do drop it borrow one from one of the front coils while you drive to the store for another bolt) - and the bolt surprisingly easy to line up with its hole. I turned it in by hand as far as possible and then used the 1/4" socket wrench with the 10mm socket to tighten it.

Rubber gloves anyone? My hands still hurt - from cuts from snaking them around in there. A clean engine to work on is desirable too - but i saved a lotta money doing this and thats what counts.