1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
hey everyone. Today I was getting my car ready for the trip home for fall break and while I was letting it run for a while I noticed that my exhaust is white-blue like as though my car is burning oil. I have been going through more quarts of oil than I originally did when I got the car. So anyhow, I'm assuming I'm burning oil.
Now I know I do abuse the engine a bit when I autocross it, but I am wondering if the oil burning is going to become a serious problem. I was reading my repair manual the other night and I think I need to replace the oil rings?? on the piston to stop oil from being burned? Is this correct? It looks like this project would be a bit involved for me to try to do anytime soon. I'm just wondering what I should do. I am planning on swapping out the engine for a gte after this summer though. Think I should be worried about burning oil much? or just run the car till I get the swap going?
There's a crap load of places an engine can loose oil, piston rings, valve seals, plug seals. 3SFE's burn oil when they get old, and they burn it good, just be glad its not leaking all over the place.
or you end up with this mess in your driveway
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My garage
1991 Nissan Maxima SE V6 5SPD - daily beater - Sold
1988 VW GTI 1.8l 16v - weekend beater - Blown engine
2005 Elantra GT sedan 5spd - Woo, no more beatup cars!
If it burns oil, simply add when needed. These engines can go forever regardless if they burn oil or not........just make sure it's always at the proper level and you will be fine!
As a counterpoint to all of the responses above, we've replaced all of the leaking seals in ours (ugh) and recently it has started burning a bit only when cold. I know that on some other engines I've owned, some inexpensive valve stem seals cured the problem, and furthermore that things don't just go forever despite oil in the combustion chamber, but maybe the 3S-FE is somehow unique.
The oil burning isn't helping anything, and could be expensive down the road if things deteriorate further, so why not spend a little effort to decide whether or not it is an easy fix?
I guess this cinches the engine change decision for you. Like the other fellows said you can go on for a long time burning oil, so long as it is "reasonable" - and to me this means, no more than one qt per fuel stop.
The alternative is an in-car overhaul. (On most engines i would strongly advise against patching like this, usually it is not worth it.) This means a valve job plus, you remove the oil pan and pop the pistons out the top, hone the cylinders and replace the rings and maybe the rod bearings. I did just this on my 88 Nissan pickup, Z24 engine with 250,000 miles.
I had bent a valve and it wasnt burning oil or anything and didnt strictly need new rings! But since i had the head off anyway, i went for it. It took me 4 solid days of work and cost about $500, including $300 for a rebuilt head. And fortunately the pistons were reusable and it needed no other parts. Or all this work would have been a waste of time.
its going to be the valve steam seals i can almost guarantee it, and my camry burned about a quart every 1000 miles for probably 3 years and ran just fine, just when all the seals went and it started leaking is when i got fed up.
__________________
My garage
1991 Nissan Maxima SE V6 5SPD - daily beater - Sold
1988 VW GTI 1.8l 16v - weekend beater - Blown engine
2005 Elantra GT sedan 5spd - Woo, no more beatup cars!
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