1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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My Camry seems to not stay hot enough while at highway speeds in low temp climate!!
What's the deal?!?, my Camry seems not able to hold it's temp in colder climate at 40 or so + mph.
The problem is that it raises the idle thinking my car is cold.......which it is
How can I keep it up to the right temp?
Ive tried the cardboard thing in front of the rad, and it somewhat helps, but is there a better way?
TIA!
The only time my t-stat can't keep up with the cold is when it's around t25 below freezing, and I'm going over 100kmh on the highway. Even then, cardboard on the rad fixes the problem. Definitely swap out the thermostat.
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
The only time my t-stat can't keep up with the cold is when it's around t25 below freezing, and I'm going over 100kmh on the highway. Even then, cardboard on the rad fixes the problem. Definitely swap out the thermostat.
TY!, I ll try swapping out the T-stat over the weekend.
The thermostat should be able to adjust coolant temp in hot or cold weather. Perhaps it is stuck open.
If it's stuck open, I wouldnt have heat in the car. I do have heat, so I dont think that's the case, but Ill swap out the t-stat this weekend to see if it helps.
^thats not true. had the same problem with mine this past week actually, heat still worked fine, but the temp never passed 1/3rd
My gauge reads half way most of the time....only when I went up north to Massachusetts where it was much colder and there was NO "stop and go" traffic like there is here in the city; did I experience the problem.
But, considering that doing the t-stat is cheap(aside from the anti-freeze) and easy, it's worth a shot.
BTW, Did changing out the t-stat fix your problem?
Keep in mind also that t-stats aren't necessarily "perfect" or "busted". The spring and rubber seal can wear, causing leakage when it should be shut...there might still be some heat. You'll notice it takes longer for the car to warm up (mine's doing it again, too busy to fix).
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Keep in mind also that t-stats aren't necessarily "perfect" or "busted". The spring and rubber seal can wear, causing leakage when it should be shut...there might still be some heat. You'll notice it takes longer for the car to warm up (mine's doing it again, too busy to fix).
Agreed, thanx for the input.....first thing friday Im swapping out the T-stat. And your right.....it takes longer then it should to warm up.
I swapped it out last night. I noticed something though, my new t-stat(stant#13758) doesnt have a jiggle valve on it. Everyhting seems fine so far, but I thought that this was neccessary for our cars. Can anybody add anything to this? Should I be worried?, or is it no biggie?
if your worried drill a small hole in it but its not needed, is it warmer now?
Ive yet to test it fully. When I go to work at 4:30 am on monday(it should be chilly)and I hit the highway, Ill see......but the real test is when I drive to my Mother's place in Massachusettes in mid-December. It's gets much colder by her and that's where I noticed this issue.
I regret not getting the premium Stant T-stat (PN#45758) which utilizes their new →"superstat®"← technology. It suppossed to be better for colder climates and it's only a few dollars more. My autopart guy just sold me what he had, I didnt know any better untill I got home and researched t-stats online.
think about heat this way, heat is measured in btu units, lets say the motor makes 800 hr, and the radiator has to be able to get rid of 800hr so they make it able to unload 1000hr, the motor will never overheat but it will never warm up eather, this is where the variable opening thermostat comes into play, the hotter the water the bigger the opening, now car maker came along and made a smaller radiator inside the car so your toes can stay warm, cars with small motors and being driven in very cold temps may be able to get rid of enough btu units through the heater and it may not even need the big radiator outside, but the heater has no thermostat and may get rid of enough btu units to cool the motor back down
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