1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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Just wondering if anyone has upgraded or moddified the SV21 (or 22 for that matter )
For a start i would really like to change the PCD to 5/114.3, and some better braking performance. I have searched google, 3 Toyota forums, a Ford forum, and a couple of Holden forums.
And have a grasp on what would be required/needed etc.
From what i have seen the ST205 seems to be the popular one for the car. 4-pot fronts/2-pot rears from what i have read.
But they are massive compared to the current SV21 brakes (i still have drums on the rear ) and parts will be harder to get.
As of yet i am finding it hard to find specs on the wide body/gen 4 camry disc brakes.
So any info on what people have done/tried would be nice
Cheers Matt
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1989 Camry SV22 (RIP) Blown Motor
There is no reason to try to go to 5x114.3 hubs... even the ST205 with its huge brakes are on 5x100 hubs. (I know this for a fact, as I have an ST205 front clip in my garage, along with the brakes!)
That said, try upgrading to the V6 rear disks. You need the rear hubs with associated brake parts (make sure you get the lines and e-brake cables too) and the proportioning valve. its a pretty easy swap from there. The V6 front brakes are the same as the 4-cylinder brakes.
Once you have disks all around, you really should only need good pads to have decent braking performance. Only if you are on a racetrack will you need more braking power (really, heat handling capability). If you can lock up your brakes, you don't need any more braking power.
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
That was the other option. Over here most rims are 5/114.3, its hard to find a 5/100. But i have found a decent 17" rim in 5/100 so i might stick with that.
I have looked at the V6 rear disc upgrade, and i was saving for it. I'm about to fix my clutch slip problem, so i was looking to deal with handling next, brakes where just part of that.
I will do the V6 rear conversion and get vented and slotted rotors. At this point in time i can't lock the wheels lol, i am heavy on the brakes so they get weared down fast. Plus my FSB is stuffed, so my left front wheel moves back and forth lol.
I will call the wreckers tomorrow.
Cheers
Matt
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1989 Camry SV22 (RIP) Blown Motor
According to Autobarn, the front disc of the I4 camry is different to the V6, is this true? Just curious because you can get higher performance brakes for the V6.
Cheers
Matt
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1989 Camry SV22 (RIP) Blown Motor
According to Autobarn, the front disc of the I4 camry is different to the V6, is this true? Just curious because you can get higher performance brakes for the V6.
Cheers
Matt
The caliper is the same (Aisin 57-25 casting), the disk are the same (ABS vs. non-ABS is different though), pads are the same.
Where are you getting the info? I'd like to double check my sources...
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
Brakes here in Aus are different for sure. I compared my front calipers to that of my mates SV21 (da_horse) and they are indeed quite different.
And Matt, if your talking about Bendix pads, then it's my understanding that the V6 can indeed get the higher performing "Ultimate" pads.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
Last edited by JetspeedCamry; 12-01-2006 at 05:24 PM.
Brakes here in Aus are different for sure. I compared my front calipers to that of my mates SV21 (da_horse) and they are indeed quite different.
And Matt, if your talking about Bendix pads, then it's my understanding that the V6 can indeed get the higher performing "Ultimate" pads.
Interesting...
Celica ST16x and Celica ST18x brakes are compatible (calipers+disks swap), so there are other choices there, including a 2-piston front caliper before going to some difficult to do brake swap.
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
after looking at it, i have decided to do a V6 rear conversion. And get performance pads and slotted/crossdrilled/vented brakes for her. If i need more then i will do it at a later date. (Most likely after the 3sgte swap that i plan to do) I only have 1200kg or so to stop :P.
The rear brakes are shocking atm, my car throws itself forward, even under light loads, to the point where i feel my lip will scrap on the ground lol.
After i fix the brakes i will do suspension, and a thin 5 spoke alloy wheel. It should help also in stopping the car, and the wheels stop fadeing on heavy brakeing (I live 5 mins away from some really nice mountain roads lol).
Cheers for all the advice i have got.
Matt
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1989 Camry SV22 (RIP) Blown Motor
Don't hate me for bring back such an old thread, but I just wanted to know a little more about this swap. I did find atobe's write up on another thread. I want to know if there is anything else besides the:
V6 rear brake assembly
proportioning valve
e-brake cables
new brake line hoses (opt)
It seems pretty straightforward. Are there any hard lines that need to be replaced or adapted? or is it just the brake hoses?
Is it also safe to assume that the ES250 rear brakes will also work?
I plan on going to the local u-pick junkyard to get the parts myself, so is there anything that I should look out for when choosing the parts (besides warped rotors and dead pads)??
How do I know if the calipers are still good?
I will look for the car with the lowest mileage, and shiniest parts.
well if you go with a friend step on the brakes and see how it holds up while you try to remove the tire w/o the e-brake on. and invest in a 10mm flare wrench or else you're just going to have stripped nuts on the brake lines...you just need the rubber brake lines from the donor car... you should always buy new brake lines just to be safe... i lines i got at from the junk yard were rotten even stole 2 extra sets and they were all bad... and remember to get those copper washers.... and chances are rotors/pads will still be good since i'm using the ones from the junk yard for like a year now and it's still pretty beefy.
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