1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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Ok, I have a 1990 Toyota Camry with 206.000 miles on it. Sometimes when I turn the key it doesn't crank. I installed a rebuilt starter a few months ago, new battery and terminals same time as the starter. I was thinking if it doesn't crank could it mean it because the ignition switch is going bad or the igniter?
very easy test, just be sure its out of gear or in park when you do this or you might be chasing a car if it didnt run you over first, get to the starter, pull the small wire off it, now with a piece of wire simply join the big hot post to the post the little wire came off of and it better crank if the battery is hot
yes, you are probably right, at this mileage theres a very good chance the ignition switch is worn out.
The ignition switch can not only affect your starting ability but the running too - one time after my Dad and I changed his Dodge truck engine it wouldnt run right sometimes. We checked everything and couldnt figure it out. Engine was new, after all. So we took it to a shop and he traced it to the ignition switch! It was worn out and apparently not passing enough voltage somehow.
Another possibility is that your battery, though new, may be low on charge. Maybe the alternator is weak and not charging it enough. If you have a volt meter its easy to check. Battery engine off, AT LEAST 12.6 volts. Engine idling, battery AT LEAST 13.9. range, 13.9 - 14.9. If it reads lower, maybe the belt is slipping. Or it is time for a new alternator too. If the alt checks out ok, change the ignition switch - i would, after so many miles.
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could it mean it because the ignition switch is going bad or the igniter?
This may be a stupid question from a noob, but what kind of wire do you use to test it? I tried to ask the mechanic I usually bring the car to, but all I got was a cool ' Bring it to me, thats what you pay me for.' Don't know if I'll ever bring it there again...
This is not an igniter problem. That would cause a good crank with no spark.
For a quick jumper to use for a lower current circuit like a starter solenoid (this kind) I'd use a 14 gauge wire for this test. You can get by with 16 ga, if that's all you have. You can buy six-foot long jumpers with clips on the ends for this kind of testing, and it's good to own a set if you're going to be doing this kind of work. As mentioned, always have the car in neutral (manual trans) or park (auto trans) before you do anything involving a starter.
But, read the whole post first.
This circuit needs additional testing beyond jumpers. I told my new techs to "test, don't guess." I think I got that phrase from snap-on.
If you have a test light, use that to test the circuit when you turn the key and nothing happens. Hook the light up to the end of the small wire that connects to the starter, and the other end of the test light to ground. Have someone turn the key again. If the light fails to come on, or only glows dimly, it could be the ignition switch. But, you still need more testing.
Manual trans circuits have a clutch switch that operates a starter relay. Can you hear the relay click when you hold the key in "start" (manual trans) and press the clutch in? If the relay is clicking, your ignition switch and your clutch switch are fine. It's unlikely that the ignition sw will provide enough current to pick up the clutch relay but not enough to pick up the starter solenoid. At this point, you couild have a bad relay contact or other problem. With an auto trans, you'd need to confirm that you have no test light indication (dim light or no light) going into the neutral safety switch (with key held in "start") before you can say the ignition switch is bad.
and scroll down to Electrical Wiring Diagrams, and after the file loads, scroll to page 43.
Logically, you should listen for that clicking relay on the manual trans cars, and on the auto trans cars you need to make sure that the power is going into terminal 2 and out terminal 3 of the neutral start sw. If you have it going into the neutral sw but not out, you have need of a new trans switch. Connector "D" is shown on page 46.
If you have a manual trans car with a clicking relay but no light at the starter, you may want to mark this relay with a crayon or marker and look for a similar relay elsewhwere on the car, and swap them out. If that eliminates the problem, you know you need to go to a yard or to toyota to find a new clutch switch relay.
No clicking (due to nothing going into the clutch sw) or no power at terminal 2 with the key held in "start"? You very likely need an ignition sw.
One quick way to check the neutral sw on an automatic trans is to hold the key in "start" and wiggle the shifter. If the engine starts to crank, you can get that AT switch right now.
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Courage...Honor...Conquer
Last edited by timebuilder; 12-28-2006 at 12:34 PM.
Do you hear any clicking at all when you turn the key? If you hear one solitary click each time you turn the key then the rebuilt starter probably wasn't rebuilt correctly. If you hear several clicks then you are probably not getting enough power to the starter (I think). Both of these situations exonerate the ignition switch. If you get no noise at all then you probably don't have power to the starter or the relay and you will need to start tracking down the cause (several).
By the way, just in case, clean your battery terminals and secure all the wire ends.
Ok I know this is an old thread but I am having some problems with my starting...
I am on my 3rd replacement starter, all the same brand rebuilder, "Worldwide". I have an automatic tranny. The problem is not all that often, but it does happen every 15-20 or so starts. I will try to start it and it will not turn over -- all I hear is a single click...
I can start it though, all I have to do is bang on the starter with a wrench and then try again, it will usually start then when I do this. But sometimes that doesn't work and what I have to do then is have somebody else bang on the starter while I turn the key. Then it will start. The guy at Autozone said that, 'After 3 starters, it probably isn't the starter itself, the brand "Worldwide" is a good brand. It might be your ignition messing up.'
But if that is true what he said, how come when I bang on the starter it will then start? That makes me think that it's something to do with the starter itself and not my ignition switch, starter relay, or neutral switch. BTW, when I bang on the starter, I can hear some sort of device making a sort of winding/charging/clicking sound near the intake and firewall area.
What do you think is wrong?
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1988 Camry LE 3sfe 4A - 123k miles
...Slower than a school bus!
Last edited by car_boy_16; 05-17-2007 at 09:18 PM.
If the flex plate has (bent) damaged teeth, the starter pinion can jam between them,so the solenoid is not able to complete its travel; if the teeth are broken, the starter then makes grinding sound.Sometimes the flex plate needs to be replaced if the old starter used to grind during the starts.
If the flex plate has (bent) damaged teeth, the starter pinion can jam between them,so the solenoid is not able to complete its travel; if the teeth are broken, the starter then makes grinding sound.Sometimes the flex plate needs to be replaced if the old starter used to grind during the starts.
Uhoh, you hit it RIGHT on the head with that!! That's why I replaced the starter, is because my old one was grinding like 1 out of every 5 starts.
So...my driveplate is jacked up huh. Oh no...I better just get rid of the damn car then. It's only an $800 car, put a whole new ignition system in, brakes, battery, tires, starter (x3).....and now this bullcrap? Arggg.
I'm still not 100% sure on what you mean by the starter pinion can jam between them - can you reword it for me or something? I think I know what you mean, but not quite.
Thanks for the help.
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1988 Camry LE 3sfe 4A - 123k miles
...Slower than a school bus!
"A single click is good, it means the starter solenoid is engaging..."
That's incorrect. It means the ignition switch and relay are engaging, allowing current to flow to the starter. The starter's solenoid is not engaging and allowing the current to flow through the starter and allow the starter to crank the engine. I know you have had 3 rebuilt starters, but I suspect they are not replacing the contacts inside the starter solenoid. What leads me to this conclusion is that you can rap on the starter and get the starter to turn and crank the engine. In addition to the rapping, you are hearing one click, which is the classic sign of worn starter solenoid contacts. Do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem. It has been covered many times.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 05-18-2007 at 03:42 PM.
"I'm still not 100% sure on what you mean by the starter pinion can jam between them - can you reword it for me or something? I think I know what you mean, but not quite."
It is also called the starter drive, or bendix drive. It is a fairly long gear that comes out of the starter and engages with the teeth in the flywheel. It spins the flywheel turning the engine until the engines fires on it's own. I may be wrong, but I don't think the starter drive jamming against the flywheel is what's happening in your case. If this were happening you usually hear a loud and harsh grinding sounds when this happens. Read my previous post for my suggestions.
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