1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Just want to start of by saying this is a great forum....
I am currently driving a 1991 Toyota Camry base model with the 3SFE engine and manual transmission. Odometer:199260
Fisrt question: Over the past year, I have noticed a decline in my engine's performance. The car hesitates/stutters and also exhibits a complete lack of power when trying to accelerate in the lower half of the RPM range. However, when it gets up to around 3500RPM (this is an estimate as I don't have a tach), it straightens out somewhat and the power returns, although not to where it used to be a few years ago. I recently changed the fuel and air filters and ran 3 or 4 tankfulls of the Techron fuel system cleaner through it, with no results. I also checked the compression.....which ranged from 168 to 180 psi....and the spark plugs were fine. I also checked and cleaned the distributor contacts. (My exhaust pipe is broken and is venting out just before the muffler....I don't know if this would have any effect on performance, so let me know if it may.) Does this sound like a fuel system problem or an ignition system problem?
Second question: How hard is it to change the shocks and struts, or is this something I should pay to have done?
Third question: Is there any way for me to rewire my headlight switch from the constant power source to an ACC source so that my lights turn off when the switch is off?
The car hesitates/stutters and also exhibits a complete lack of power when trying to accelerate in the lower half of the RPM range. However, when it gets up to around 3500RPM (this is an estimate as I don't have a tach), it straightens out somewhat and the power returns.... Does this sound like a fuel system problem or an ignition system problem?
Sounds to me like it's time to replace the timing belt, it has probably slipped a cog or the lower timing gear on the crankshaft may have started to slip over the shear key.
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Second question: How hard is it to change the shocks and struts, or is this something I should pay to have done?
Depends on your overall comfort with working on your car. It really isn't that hard, but you will need to have a pair of spring compressors. And be sure to give yourself enough time to do it.
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Third question: Is there any way for me to rewire my headlight switch from the constant power source to an ACC source so that my lights turn off when the switch is off?
If you had a DX or LE most of them are already wired to shut the headlights off the moment you open the drivers side door with the ignition out of the "Run" position. However if you really want to set it up so the headlights go off otherwise, you could set up a relay on the headlight circuit fed off of the "Run" line so the only time the headlights would be on is when the key is turned to "Run". It seems to me the relays for the Headlight "auto off" are with the fuse box behind the drivers side kick panel in the LE and DX cars. You might be able to replace the one in your car with one from a wrecking yard. If it is an LE one there is also usually a timed dimming feature for the courtesy lights so they slowly dim after you close the door instead of just switching off immediately.
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Sounds to me like it's time to replace the timing belt, it has probably slipped a cog or the lower timing gear on the crankshaft may have started to slip over the shear key.
I just replaced the timing belt and water pump 3 months ago....I am 95% sure that this isn't a timing issue. All the marks lined up and the ignition timing is running around 15*BTDC at idle and 10*BTDC when the wires are jumped.
If your initial acceleration is REALLY bad check your fuel pressure and injectors. One of my injectors failed and the 3sfe didn't want to accelerate from a stop. Once I got to about 45 MPH you didn't notice it as much. Turned out I was trying to run on 3 cylinders.
I agree that you can do the struts. Around here, Auto Zone & O'Rielly will "loan" out the necessary tools. You may find similar deals near you.
Don't know about the headlights. I made a beeper once to sound off if I left the lights on with the ignition off. It wouldn't take too much to exchange the beeper with some sort of relay for the light power.
If you had a DX or LE most of them are already wired to shut the headlights off the moment you open the drivers side door with the ignition out of the "Run" position.
I just found out about this feature recently when Ivanhoe mentioned it, but my car doesn't seem to have that function.
BTW WVU, welcome to the forum!
I did a small how-to on converting your cig. lighter to always-on. It may be possible to apply that same concept to the headlights, only using a switched acc. terminal. If your headlights don't have the auto turn-off feature, this may be a possibility.
your cat converter may be starting to plug up, your o2 sensor is probably pretty tired by now too, the power range of the motor is about 3500 to just past 4000 so it sounds like your cam timing is ok, i run my timing up to just under the point that it pings and my egr valve is unplugged i have no idea what it is set at, anything that affects the outlet airflow of the 3sfe has a big effect, the intake system is already way too big so there is little gain from doing mods to it. When I first got my 88 running it was rich and drank gas, the o2 was dead but never threw a code, i changed the o2, busted out he cat brick and have since drove it all over the country
im having the same problem with my 91 Camry. I was thinking about just cutting the catalytic out and running straight pipe back. Do you think that will fix the surging problem?
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91 Camry Questions
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