New guy, need help...

[dhillis]

Vehicle: 1991 Camry 3s-fe 2L 4cyl, 16 valve, auto trans, 183,000 miles

I just recently had to replace a water pump gasket and while I was in there, I replaced the timing, power steering and crankshaft belts. I replaced the timing belt per the instructions provided in the Haynes manual. However, I could only get the cam gear/retainer seal lined up in the 11 o'clock postion and the crankshaft at "0".

Anyway, I put it all back together and it ran great. Then I tore it down again to check to make sure the gasket wasn't leaking and it wasn't. I then went for another test drive and it would not accelerate. I would hold the accelerator to the floor and it wouldn't rev, then all of a sudden it would take off and accelerate. Then it would shift, not rev and all of a sudden take off again, all the way through the gears. In overdrive it would not accelerate the least bit. It almost feels like the crankshaft belt is slipping but it isn't, which I verified several times. It also feels like it may be sucking too much air for a few seconds (more like 10-20) and then it gains strength and runs properly.

I checked every vacuum line I could think of, but I will admit that I am not particularly familiar with this motor. It should also be noted that while in park or neutral, the motor will rev properly and sounds very "in tune", however, once a load is put on the motor (put in gear) it has no low RPM power.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

[fredk]

cam timing is late or the big intake hose has a hole in it or loose, look for a vacuum leak too and tighten down the distributor after you set the timing

[dhillis]

I already checked the intake hose and distributor several times, all looks good. I have tried to find every vacuum hose and related parts but have been unable to find anything loose.

Dan

[dhillis]

If the cam timing is incorrect, wouldn't it start, idle or rev rough?

Dan

[fredk]

maybe not from just 1 tooth, do this, get the top belt cover off and pull the spark plugs, put a long rod down the first plug hole and get it up on top dead center, there are 2, one will have the hole in the cam gear at the bottom and one at the top, use the top and be sure you can see the dot on the head through the hole at tdc, use a paper clip on it, be very sure the piston is at tdc when the crank marks align and never crank the motor with the key when the rod is in it, use about a 1 foot rod and use the alt pulley to turn the motor with it will turn easy, then get it running and put a timing lite on it

[dhillis]

This issue I am running into with the camshaft pulley TDC mark is that there are two different marks on the bearing cap. One mark is more like a groove extending to the outer edge of the bearing cap and the other mark looks like a punch mark. The Haynes manual is not very clear on which mark to use. But following your recommendations and the repair manual, the pulley TDC hole lines up with the groove, not the punch mark, as was the case the first time. The only way I can see lining up the pulley hole and the punch mark is taking the pulley off and reconfiguring it.

Thanks,
Dan

[fredk]

12 o clock straight up, its a hole

[dhillis]

fredk,

I don't mean to sound offensive, but that doesn't answer my question... The cam pulley has a TDC hole in it, the bearing cap has a vee notch and a punch mark. Do I line the cam pulley hole up with the vee notch or the punch mark? If it is the punch mark, then it is not possible without taking the cam pulley off and moving it over to the punch mark. On top of that, when the punch mark is in the 12 0'clock position, the distributor rotor is not on the #1 cylinder contact, or 180 degrees of from it. Based on that, I assume that it is not possible have the #1 cylinder TDC and the correct cam timing marks.

Dan

[fredk]

heres the scoop, put the cam gear hole at 12.00 and lign it up with the punch mark with a paper clip, now be sure the rotor is pointing to number 1 plug wire, it should be, maybe someone put the wires on the cap wrong but get it all aligned on number 1

[timebuilder]

Dan-

The mark you want to have aligned with the hole in the cam sprocket is the only mark that is at the "top" of the bearing cap. Remember, the whole engine "tilts" toward the rear, so look for the mark being perpendicular to the parting edge of the bearing cap.

When the hole in the cam sprocket is aligned with the mark, and all slack is removed from the "front" part of the timing belt (closest to the front of the car) the crank pulley timing mark should be lined up with the "0" on the lower timing cover. I like to have the plugs all out when I check this, so I'm not fighting compression as I crank the motor by hand. I like to use a socket on the crank bolt, and an extension with a ratchet to turn over the motor with a sense of control. The longer the ratchet handle, the more control.

When the cam and crank are lined up as described, and there is no slack on the "front" side of the belt (that's the part of the belt to your right, when you're facing the end of the motor from the passenger side fender) the distributor rotor will be lined up under the number one spark wire connector.

Also, look at page 71 in your Haynes book. The US motor has an "E" with a hole, and that is the timing hole. The Canadian motor has the "E" 180 degrees away from the top, and there is no hole near that "E." Also, the #1 piston is at the top of the cylinder when the crankshaft keyway faces the ceiling, and/or when the pulley timing mark is at "0."

Double check the relationship of the timing marks by cranking the motor two revolutions by hand, stopping the crank pulley groove at the "0" mark on the lower cover. If the hole in the cam sprocket is not lined up with the mark on the bearing cap when the crank pully is lined up at the "0," then retract the tensioner (press it against the spring to the end of the adjustment slot and tighten the bolt) and move the cam sprocket a little bit forward of the mark, replace the belt (or jump it a tooth to remove slack) release the tensioner so the spring holds tension against the belt, turn the crank forward (clockwise) 2 turns and check the marks again, stopping at the crank "0" mark. If the marks are good, tighten the tensioner bolt. If not, figure out which way the cam sprocket has to move so that the you are settled on the marks after the two turns, turns made with the tensioner bolt loosened so it can move a little and press against the belt while you turn the crank pulley.

If you have to jump a tooth with the belt to correct the timing, you’ll have to push the tensioner against its spring and tighten the tensioner bolt again, first. This “retracts” the tensioner and holds it from pressing against the belt. Never pry on the belt with any kind of tool, because you’ll snap the internal construction of the belt.

Sometimes, you'll over-estimate the belt slack amount and go too far forward with the cam sprocket during the setup process, but you will quickly figure out what you have to do to get those marks lined up. Since this isn't an interference motor, you're pretty safe. There is very little "give" in a timing belt, and the cam sprocket doesn't have to be set too far forward of the mark when placing the belt into the sprocket teeth. If you do it right, as soon as you rotate the crank the slack is removed and the cam and crank are now in sync, and the cam sprocket mark will line up with the hole when you stop at the timing mark “0” on the lower cover.

After you have done this a couple of times, it makes more sense than reading it on paper or a screen. Remember, the front side of the belt is the part under tension, being driven by the crank. The tensioner is controlling the slack on the back side.

If all of this is right, look elsewhere for the problem you are having. All air entering the engine must go through the metering vane, so any hose leaks after the box will make it run lean, and stumble on acceleration.

[Doctor J]

I would check transmission kick-down cable for sticking. Another place to look are two 3/8 in. O.D. air hoses to the power steering pump air control valve (at the very bottom of power steering pump). Make sure that neither hose had fallen off the fitting.

[dhillis]

I just wanted to let everyone know that I figured it out the other day. I appreciate everyone's help. Doctor J, what are those air control valve hoses for?

Dan

[timebuilder]

Are you going to tell us what you found?

[dhillis]

Well, I'm not sure exactly what cured the problem, but I took it all back apart and checked everything. I also adjusted the throttle cable and shift lever cable. Either way, she runs good again, well as good as a 4 cyl Toyota can... it gets me back and forth to work and that's all I care about.

Dan

[Doctor J]

The air control valve opens when the pressure bulids up in the power steering system.This device will allow the air to go around the throttle plate which increases the engine rpm to compensate for load placed on engine by power steering pump.