1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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After my speedometer stopped working the OD light started blinking..Can anyone help me!!!! I don't think the blinking light affects anything(i wouldn't know cause it run rough all ready)
but it just annoying. Also can anyone tell me where the speedo cable on the tranny is??
Ready? Beginning at page AT-16 in the manual for the A140E
A self–diagnosis function is built into the electrical control system.
Warning is indicated by the overdrive OFF indicator.
HINT: Warning and diagnostic codes can be read only when the overdrive switch is ON. If OFF, the overdrive OFF indicator is lit continuously and will not blink.
(a) If a malfunction occurs within the speed sensors (No. 1 or 2) or solenoids (No. 1 or 2), the overdrive OFF light will blink to warn the driver. However, there will be no warning of a malfunction with lock–up solenoid.
(b) The diagnostic code can be read by the number of blinks of the overdrive OFF indicator when terminals Tt and E1 are short–circuited. (See page AT–17)
(c) The throttle position sensor or brake signal are not indicated, but inspection can be made by checking the voltage at terminal Tt of the check connector (diagnosis).
(d) The signals to each gear can be checked by measuring the voltage at terminal Tt of the check connector while driving.
2. The diagnostic (malfunction) code is retained in memory by the CPU and due to back–up voltage, is not canceled out when the engine is turned off. Consequently, after repair, it is necessary to turn the ignition switch off and remove the fuse EFI (15A) or disconnect the ECT computer connector to cancel out the diagnostic
(malfunction) code. (See page AT–18)
HINT:
• Low battery voltage will cause faulty operation of the diagnosis system. Therefore, always check the battery first.
• Use a voltmeter and ohmmeter that have an impedance of at least 10k 11 IV.
CHECK O/D OFF INDICATOR LIGHT
1. Turn the ignition switch ON.
2. The O/D OFF light will come on when the O/D switch is placed at OFF.
3. When the O/D switch is set to ON, the O/D OFF light should go out.
If the O/D OFF light flashes when the O/D switch is set to ON, the electronic control system is faulty.
READ DIAGNOSTIC CODE
1. TURN IGNITION SWITCH AND O/D SWITCH TO ON
Do not start the engine.
HINT: Warning and diagnostic codes can be read only when the overdrive switch is ON. If OFF, the overdrive OFF light will light continuously and will not blink.
2. SHORT ECT TERMINAL CIRCUIT OF CHECK CONNECTOR
Using a SST, short terminals Tt and E1 of the check connector.
SST 09843–18020
(Diagnostic Code Indication)
• If the system is operating normally, the light will blink once every 0.25 seconds.
3. READ DIAGNOSTIC CODE
Read the diagnostic code as indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF indicator flashes.
• In the event of a malfunction, the fight will blink once every 0.5 seconds. The number of blinks will equal the first number and, after 1.5 seconds pause, the second number of the two digit diagnostic code. If there are two or more codes,
there will be a 2.5 seconds pause between each.
HINT: In the event of several trouble codes occurring simultaneously, indication will begin from the smaller value and continue to the larger.
4. REMOVE SST
SST 09843–18020
Codes:
42 Defective No. 1 speed sensor (in combination meter) –
severed wire harness or short circuit
61 Defective No. 2 speed sensor (in ATM) –
severed wire harness or short circuit
62 Severed No. 1 solenoid or short circuit –
Severed wire harness or short circuit
63 Severed No. 2 solenoid or short circuit –
severed wire harness or short circuit
64 Severed lock–up solenoid or short circuit –
severed wire harness or short circuit
HINT: If codes 62, 63 or 64 appear, there is an electrical malfunction in the solenoid. Causes due to mechanical failure, such as a stuck valve, will not appear.
"Severed" could mean something has actually been "cut," but a better translation from the Japanese might have been "open."
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Last edited by timebuilder; 12-18-2006 at 09:06 AM.
The light is blinking because speedometer stopped working.The cable is on the top of the differential case.Check the barrel nuts on the cable to make sure they are tight.
That's very likely. The code 42 would be set if the speed sensor in the combination meter (we say instrument cluster) was not being turned by the speedometer drive.
My OD switch is on but only the OD OFF light is blinking. So i guess the electronic control sysstem is faulty? Also i checked my engine light and i got a code 12, 41, 42, 52. I can replace parts but i dont know how to trouble shoot. Thanks a bunch.
My OD switch is on but only the OD OFF light is blinking. So i guess the electronic control sysstem is faulty?
As Doc said, your OD light is flashing because the speedo isn't working. Don't treat it as a seperate problem. I would fix that first, reset the computer, then see what (if any) codes show up after that.
I'd say begin with the known problem of a non-functioning speedo, which will more than likely take care of the code 42. After all, if the spedometer begins to work, the sensor in the instrument cluster can likely begin creating a signal.
If you have problems after that, take them one step at a time.
I just cleaned my throttle body and replaced my distributor cap and its runs like a dream also my OD off light stopped blinkin and went back to normal. but the speedometer cable on the differential case like i need to jack the car up and easy to find? I dont really know where to look. Is there a picture? Thank you.
Have you downloaded the REPAIR MANUALS ? The AT manual has a TON of diagrams in it and more info than you will ever need, but there is a basic pic on page AT25 of that manual. Looks like the cable is connected at the back side of the tranny. Shouldn't be hard to recognize when you look at it.
I just checked the speedo cable and its was broken. But Ive found the problem. So is it better to find a junk one or get it at the stealership? I think its just 1 whole cable.
I just checked the speedo cable and its was broken. But Ive found the problem. So is it better to find a junk one or get it at the stealership? I think its just 1 whole cable.
Exellent, finding the problem is sometimes 90% of the battle. For a part like that, I wouldn't hesitate to get one from the junkyard for dirt cheap, IF it's not a big hassle. Can you get to the cable from the top of the car, or do you have to get at it from underneath? If you have to get to it from under the car, a junkyard may be more hassle than it's worth.
Yea i can reach my hand and unscrew the cable but im not so sure how to get it out of the firewall. I open my dash and pulled out the cluster and looked behind. i see the other side of the cable but still don't know how to replace it? Has anyone did before?? Also, how much should a junk cable cost???
I never replaced a speedo cable on a Toyota, and I worked on perhaps a dozen brands before and after the dealership (some of which were merely different nameplates on the same vehicles) so I can tell you a little about cables.
There are two most typical conventions for attaching a speedo cable to the rear of a speedometer. One way is to use a threaded collar. The collar pushes a pressed metal rim against the housing. This rim is a part of the fitting on the end of the outer housing or cable "jacket" which is the part of the cable you can see from where you are standing. The "business" part of the cable is inside, and is a tightly wound set of metal wires formed into a cable that spins within the outer covering.
The second way of attaching a cable is to have a spring steel retainer that grasps the cable jacket when at rest, and this holds the outer cable jacket against the rear of the speedo cable fitting. Pressing the springy retainer back against the speedo housing moves it away from the cable jacket's steel sleeve, allowing you to remove the cable jacket/housing and the cable that lives inside it from the rear of the instrument cluster. A less popular attachment is to have a flange with a screw or a spring clip or hairpin that holds the cable in position.
There is a reference to the speedometer cable on pages 66, 69, and 70 of the "Body" section in the online manuals.
If the broken part is the cable inside (and that's typical, unless some outside force damages the outer jacket) you can fix the problem by just replacing the inside cable.
Not far from me, there is a speedo shop. I can take them the broken cable (the inside part) and they can create a new inside part in less than five minutes. I will typically put a little light grease on the inner cable and slide it into the outer jacket.
You may have a speedo shop in your area, because there are millions of older trucks on the roads that use these cables not only for the speedo but also for the device with a clock in it that truckers call a "rat," a recorder device for speed and time, driven by a speedometer type cable. A truck shop can tell you where you can get a cable repaired, or have a new inner cable made up.
Sometimes, a positioning collar is fitted to the inner cable, often at the upper end, to make certain the square-stamped ends of the inner cable stay in the squared socket mating parts at the trans and speedo, and the end with the collar is the end where you can remove the inner cable from its jacket.
So, you can have the broken inner cable replaced by a shop, or pull a unit out of a junked Camry. Put a little lube on it before you assemble it (I have used white lithium grease for years) and button it all up.
Yea i can reach my hand and unscrew the cable but im not so sure how to get it out of the firewall. I open my dash and pulled out the cluster and looked behind. i see the other side of the cable but still don't know how to replace it? Has anyone did before?? Also, how much should a junk cable cost???
It isn't really all that hard, there are some Camrys that have a one piece speedo cable and some that have two piece cables. If the replacement is the two piece design be sure to get both sections. Either way there is a rubber boot/grommet that the cable feeds through the firewall you will pop that boot out to the inside of the car. (Mind you, I'm trying to pull this from memory so there might be something I miss) If you pull out your instrument cluster the cable easily detaches from the rear of it, in fact, if memory serves the speedo end is held in place by a plastic bracket and you can pull the cable out from inside the car. You simply feed the new one back through the hole and re-seal the boot back into place. Screw the collar from the new cable onto the tranny and put your cluster back. (Now would be a good time to replace any bad bulbs in your cluster if you have any.)
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