1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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Camry: Its freezing!! Temperature is not working. HELP!
Hi,
I'm new to this forum.
I have a '89 Camry V6. Everything is fine, except i only get cold air inside. The lever doesn't work, so i adjusted the switch manually inside the engine room. Nothing happens when i do that. Im not ever sure which way it should be for heat.
I had heat a month ago, but it gradually became colder, and now theres no heat at all.
The car has aircondition system.
Any help would be great!
Thanks, and merry Christmas.
I'd check and see if the heater hoses are hot. Also, can you put a bare hand on the heater box under the dash and feel warmth?
I haven't tried this. Where exactly is this heater box located? Is this where the heat in the liquid gets converted to heat?
The heater hoses don't seem that hot. Maybe there isn't enough liquid?
Sorry for the newbie questions, but im not a mechanic.
Thanks so much for your answers!
"The heater hoses don't seem that hot. Maybe there isn't enough liquid?"
That could be your problem, especially since you said "I had heat a month ago, but it gradually became colder." The heat comes form the hot coolant passing through a small radiator under the dash called a heater core. A fan blows through this heater core forcing the warm heated air in to the passenger compartment. With little or no coolant, there will be no heat. Check the cooant overflow tank and the radiator for coolant. If it is low add a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water until it is full. Then check for leaks. Coolant should not be consumed by the car in a normally working cooling system.
One small question though: I have detached the cable from the liquid switch. This now rules out any electrical problems right? Like this thread (i just found): http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t9592.html
The only thing possible that can be wrong now is mechanical right? Either hoses or liquid fault.
Hope someone understands the question....kinda hard to explain.
The thread you referenced is for a climate control system that uses pushbuttons. Do you have a pushbutton system?
Checking the coolant is a good beginning, especially if you haven't done so. As Mike said, you are going to fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. If your existing coolant looks "red," then you will need the Toyota factory red antifreeze. Or, you can drain the system and replace it, but I like to go with the same type as what's already in there. If you find a greenish residue around the radiator cap, then conventional antifreeze will be fine.
So, top up the radiator and fill the overflow bottle to the "min" line or other marking for coolant level. I also replace the radiator cap every couple of years because the cap has an important function of regulating the pressure value in the cooling system.
Re-connect your cable for the coolant valve. When the cable is in the correct adjustment, you should be able to move the lever back and forth in the car, and the valve position should be changing under the hood.
One more thing. Do you have a cloud of water vapor coming out the exhaust pipe, or a puddle of coolant where you park the car? I'm asking because coolant doesn't just disappear, it either goes into the combustion process or out on the ground. The second one is no big deal, just find the leak and repair it. The first means you have a combustion chamber breach: a head gasket or block/head problem.
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Last edited by timebuilder; 12-18-2006 at 06:21 PM.
Hi,
I have the same push butten AC system as the pic in the above link (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t9592.html)
Unfortnunately, when i move the temp lever inside the car the cable doesnt move at all....
So, either its stuck or breached.
I'll check the coolant level in the morning.
Also, is there a diagram online that shows the coolant system clear?
Follow the directions for draining and replacing coolant.
In a situation where I don't know the maintenance history and I'm draining the coolant, I'd replace the thermostat and the radiator cap, in the same section.
If you have the pushbutton system, it would be worthwhile to check the two solder joints in the thread you saw. For the short term, if you have a low coolant problem, get the system full and open the heater coolant valve by hand. Depending on the air door position in the heater box you may get some heat. Its been a while since I had to work on a pushbutton system, so the default position of the doors in the heater box is unclear.
There is an electrical schematic for this system. Go page to the main page where you found that number seven bullet point, and go down to the "electrical wiring diagrams" link. Scroll down to page 171 for the pushbutton system used with the V6 motor.
Whenever you approach an electrical problem, start with the simple things first. For example, you already have (I hope) solved any problem with the coolant level and the overflow bottle. Now, check all the fuses. You can try and identify only the fuses that might be a part of the heater system, but you can quickly check all of them. Your owner's manual shows the places they like to hide. If all of the fuses are good, check all of the buttons. Does the system work in any modes? Can you get warm air to come out the defroster ducts?
Failing these approaches, you can certainly take a soldering iron (or find a friend who is an electronics hobbbyist) and ckeck/resolder the joints on the control board. Get back to us when you have checked all of these items.
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Courage...Honor...Conquer
Last edited by timebuilder; 12-18-2006 at 06:52 PM.
Hi,
I have the same push butten AC system as the pic in the above link (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t9592.html)
Unfortnunately, when i move the temp lever inside the car the cable doesnt move at all....
So, either its stuck or breached.
Hi David, if the circuit the rheostat (slider) operates stays in an open state the cable won't move regardless of the position the lever is in. That cable operates both the valve on the firewall and the air door that diverts air through the heater core. So if sliding the slider does not change the position of the cable to the valve you can be sure that the door is closed also. That cable is run by a servo that is controlled electronically, the cable itself is not directly connected to the temp slider. I've seen this problem many times and almost every time the problem is bad contacts or a bad rheostat on the controller.
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Ok, i have changed the coolant. This didn't solve the problem. So, the problem must be the rheostat.
The thing is that here in Norway there are very few of these cars, and the probability of me finding one with a functioning rheostat is small.
So, i was thinking: The rheostat controls the collant switch and the heat/cold - air fan.
Where is this fan located?
If i just connect a wire from the heat fan to the battery (or something similar), will i not force the heat inside?
Its my moms car, and we are leaving on a semi-big trip to denmark for christmas holidays. With my limiting time, isn't there a way to force hot air in??
Thanks guys!
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