Is it worn front swaybar bushings?

[Nice89]

Car makes binding noises in the front when it pulls away from a stop. The noise is loudest first thing in the morning. It diminishes when the car has been driven a few miles.

Turning does not cause the noise. Backing out of a parking spot will lead to the noise when the car starts going forwards. On the freeway, the car seems to wander . . . a bit to the right under power and a bit to the left when you let off the gas.

The car is a 1989 gen 2 4cyl 5spd manual with 62k miles. The clutch does not slip, but is a bit grabby/rough when cold. Once warm, the clutch works like new.

I don't like the "power induced steering" on the freeway and the clunky/creaky noise in the morning make an otherwise nice car seem like a junker.

What could cause this and how many dead presidents do I need to pile up to fix it?



Thanks





http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp...p=ZNxmk762IDUS

[TBayToyotaBoy]

Hmmm, two things come to mind from personal experience (regarding the noise, not the steering): broken coil spring or worn bushings (either on the stabilizer bar or on the control arm). Neither prolem would cost an arm or a leg.... try looking under there and see if anything jumps-out at you. If the spring is cracked it will probably be waaay up near the top where the coil seats in the strut mount.

As for the seering, take a look at the ball joints/tie rod ends (may cause wandering when coasting). My cars have all had a slight wander under hard acceleration, so no ideas on that one...

[white90dx]

It is mostly likely the swaybar to control arm busing in the front. A worn one (but not both) would cause exactly what you are seeing. Look around eBay and junkyards for pre-loaded lower control arms for a decent price. Install is easy - make sure you get an alignment when you are done. Think about replacing your ball joints while you are in there too.

With new bushings, ball joints, steering rack, wheel bearings, springs and struts, my Camry tracks pretty well under most circumstances...

-Charlie

[nuron]

Tbay, I ordered the part from rockauto like you said and I don't see how it could work. Is there supposed to be that much of a size difference?

[Nice89]

Hi,

To be on the safe side, I ordered fully-loaded front control arms for both sides. They were on ebay for $150 - 2 control arms loaded with bushings including ball joints and shipping.

How big a job is this? What tools are needed?

Thanks

[es250nut]

It seems to me you need an 18mm for the chassis & swaybar nuts and 14mm or 15mm for the bolts holding the ball joint on, a little muscle and maybe an hour. (I could probably do it in 30 minutes or less without powertools) The hardest part will be getting the control arms back onto the sway bar. Last time I did the job I used a ratcheting tie down nylon strap to flex the sway bar back into place.

[fredk]

looks like your old bushings are ok in the pic?

[atobe]

those are rear sway bar bushings you'r holding with your hand

[nuron]

Originally Posted by fredk

looks like your old bushings are ok in the pic?

Theyre a bit squeaky like the OP's situation.

Originally Posted by atobe

those are rear sway bar bushings you'r holding with your hand

Are you serious???? Tbay told me to order this part (I dont blame him) and even the description says :

MOOG Part # K90318 {Sway Bar Bushing}
Frt Susp; To Frame

Front suspension! Should I contact them?

[Doctor J]

First of all,the pulling to the side while accelerating aka torque steer is usually caused by mismatched or unevenly worn (left to right) tires as well as improper rear wheel alignment.
On Nov, 24 I replaced both front control arms and ball joints (also got thm from ebay for $127 total). There are some notes I will add to the procedure outlined in the manual:

1. Unbolt sway bar to front subframe brackets (2 17 mm bolts on ea. side, marked 10.) This will relieve sway bar tension.
2. On a/t equipped car there is limited clearance foe driver side control arm to shaft nut, so I got box end wrench 22 mm size, cut off the open end , inserted remaining piece into the 3/4 in steel pipe and used this tool to break loose this nut.
3. Next, I removed steering knuckle to lover contol arm bolts (2 each side 17 mm, marked 11).
4. I used mpact gun to take off control arm bracket to body bolts and rear crossmember.
5. I also removed front motor mount to move sway bar more to the front of the car but it may not be necessary.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by nuron

Are you serious???? Tbay told me to order this part (I dont blame him) and even the description says :

MOOG Part # K90318 {Sway Bar Bushing}
Frt Susp; To Frame

Front suspension! Should I contact them?

Probably the correct part for a later generation Camry...

-Charlie

[nuron]

Nope I even clicked on 1988...should i call them?

[Nice89]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

First of all,the pulling to the side while accelerating aka torque steer is usually caused by mismatched or unevenly worn (left to right) tires as well as improper rear wheel alignment.
On Nov, 24 I replaced both front control arms and ball joints (also got thm from ebay for $127 total). There are some notes I will add to the procedure outlined in the manual:

1. Unbolt sway bar to front subframe brackets (2 17 mm bolts on ea. side, marked 10.) This will relieve sway bar tension.
2. On a/t equipped car there is limited clearance foe driver side control arm to shaft nut, so I got box end wrench 22 mm size, cut off the open end , inserted remaining piece into the 3/4 in steel pipe and used this tool to break loose this nut.
3. Next, I removed steering knuckle to lover contol arm bolts (2 each side 17 mm, marked 11).
4. I used mpact gun to take off control arm bracket to body bolts and rear crossmember.
5. I also removed front motor mount to move sway bar more to the front of the car but it may not be necessary.

I appreciate all of the advice and clarification.

The tires on my car match, are in good shape with lots of tread, and show no unusual wear patterns. The struts are still working, have no leaks, and easily pass the bounce test. The springs look fine with no signs of damage or fatigue. The car sits level and the ride height seems normal. It is a low mileage car (60K miles) and has been well maintained.

The "wandering" and "wiggly steering" feeling is not severe yet. The creak/clunk noise is proportional to temperature. When it is cold out and the car is first started, the noise is hard to ignore. When it is hot out or the car has been driven for more than 5 miles, the noise is much less.

It looks like installing the new arms will not be too difficult. In fact, I am looking forward to spending time with an old friend drinking beers, sharing BS stories, and working on my car at a leisurely pace.

I love the holidays: time for stuff I have been putting off for months. The CBR600RR is going in for its 12K mile service. I can't wait to get it back on the road. Yippie!