CV boot / half-shaft question

[HomeGrown]

I just got back from the dealer for an oil change, and they pointed out that my driver's side outer CV boot is fully split (radially), and the other side is not far behind. They want around $550 to replace both boots on both sides.

My question: If I do the repair myself, is it worthwhile to replace just the 4 boots, from a labor vs. cost standpoint? There's no indication that the entire shaft needs replacing (car has 55k on the clock). I'm assuming that if I buy new shafts, they will already have the new boots in place so it would only be a matter of installing the new shafts, saving the labor of boot replacement.

Anyone know how much I could expect to pay for all 4 new boots, vs. new shaft assemblies?

Thanks for any input - Bill

[Doctor J]

Bill, If the axles are not clicking on turns I would go ahead and replace boots.
For outer boots I would recommend high quality ones, the inner boots could be the budget brand name.
It may sound stupid but it is possible to re-use at least once the original boot clamps. You can work them out/in with small flat screwdriwer, long nose pliers, and small hammer. The inner boot kit has a snap ring for inner joint, be sure to put it in.
Rent an axle pusher tool from the Autozone, so you will be able to push the ahle from the hub wit ease.

[HomeGrown]

Thanks Doc,

I went to RockAuto to price the parts online, and the boots are quite inexpensive. $12.60, vs. $46 at the dealership. Haven't priced them at AutoZone yet.

How does the CV joint come apart, and what special tools might be required? I'm assuming it has to be taken apart to change the boots.
And when they're apart, what type of grease do I use on them?

[Tommy]

AH..no

If youve never done CV boots before, dont do it! They're such a pain in the ass the first couple times you do them. For like $100 you can replace the entire axle, thats so much easier and will save you hours of frustration.

[toyomoho]

Check Rockauto’s prices on axle shafts, if you have the money change both of them out. As Tommy states, replacing an outer boot is time consuming and messy. If the boot is split the joint may also have lost its grease or been contaminated and you may be replacing the joint in another 6 months to a year. The link below provides access to service manuals.

Also note the TN threads at the bottom to this page for more info.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

[Doctor J]

The inner joint must come apart in order to change outer boot. once clamps are open, the inner joint tulip comes out. The boot kit contais grease tube. Mark all parts for proper reassembly.
On my wagon someone serviced the outer boot and assembled the outer joint without grease. The junkyard was near-by, so I went there, found the fresh axle, pulled boot, the inner tripod piece (which was damaged due to the lack of grease)and rebuild my axle, using u-joint molibdenum grease for trucks. The parts were $4 for tripod, $3 for boot, took 1 hour to remove and repair altogether.
There are three ways to remove axle lock nut (30 mm size)

with impact wrench;

with car on the ground by using the long cheater, break the nut loose;

or remove the caliper and insert the 3/8 inch allen key into the rotor slot between the ribs, then brace wrench against the caliper bracket and break the nut loose. You can also use spare caliper bolt instead of allen key.

[IvanHoe]

Alot of mechanics these days dont even replace boots anymore, it's much easier to just do the whole axle....and believe or not, not that much more money.
To do just the boot, my guy charges $65....he charged me $100 for the whole passenger side axle to be replaced.....and that's the more expensive one(longer and includes the half-shaft bearing).
Homegrown, your guy gave you an insane price, you should look elsewhere for a more affordable/honest guy.

[timebuilder]

This is a job for the adventurous. Make sure you feel that way before you attempt it. A nice, heavy workbench with a large vise and a hammer with brass drift is my minimum recommendation.

The boot kits come with a plastic bolus of grease, the boot, and two clamps. Because I did a lot of them, I have the clamp crimp tool, but you can do it with common tools if you are careful and clever.

56k miles is still young for an axle. As was pointed out, if there is absolutely NO clicking yet, the jionts can be saved. Even so, it is so much easier to just swap out the axles.

So, if you are itching to get your hands really greasy, get a little frustrated, have nothing on your "honey do" list and no desire tro have a nap, you may want to do this once, just for the challenge. If time is at a premium and you don't like to be frustrated, just change the axles.

[superfob]

I just changed both my half-shafts for the first time last week. The problems I ran into were:

1. getting the axle lock nut off (had to spray it with liqud wrench and borrow a breaker bar)

2. unbolting the six bolts that hold the halfshaft (They are hard to get at and unbolt)

3. getting the rebuilt axle to go into the hub(I had to go back and get another one from
the store because it was defective) I didn't want to chance another rebuilt not going in so
I exchanged it for a new one. Ninety dollars versus sixty.

4. Stoping the hub from moving. (Used a crowbar)

I don't know if I would do it again, It took alot of time and energy.

[HomeGrown]

Good answers guys, thanks! This is the info I was looking for. I don't want to enter into hours of unnecessary labor and mess, just to save the difference between the cost of the boots vs. the entire shaft. Looks like the shafts are cheap enough. I guess it's worth more to me to be able to button up the job as quickly as possible, and minimize frustration. If I had more time and a more substantial workbench, I might attempt the boots. But it sounds like I would be kicking my own ass for going that route if I did.

IvanHoe: It was a Toyota dealership! How much more honest can you get?

I shouldn't have left my Toyota badge laying in the console, he probably thought I was made of money. Boy, was HE wrong! He didn't know the change in my tray represents almost my entire net worth.

[timebuilder]

I have found I can save a lot of money by kicking my own ass, but sometimes others are willing to do it for free.

[IvanHoe]

Originally Posted by HomeGrown

IvanHoe: It was a Toyota dealership! How much more honest can you get?

I shouldn't have left my Toyota badge laying in the console, he probably thought I was made of money. Boy, was HE wrong! He didn't know the change in my tray represents almost my entire net worth.

That's why we call them "stealerships" rather than dealerships

[timebuilder]

I think it depends on the service you want.

I have seen both local toyota and honda delaers beat the total price of a job compared to a chain store like pep boys, and you get genuine OE parts, to boot.

[IvanHoe]

Originally Posted by timebuilder

I think it depends on the service you want.

I have seen both local toyota and honda delaers beat the total price of a job compared to a chain store like pep boys, and you get genuine OE parts, to boot.

With the exception of my local Midas guy(owner used to drive a cab with my pops in the late seventies), I dont trust chain shops!!!

[timebuilder]

I can certainly understand that idea.

Most shops, even Pepe's, are only as good as the technicians and the leadership. Most people go to chain stores because of price and availability. The best shops have loyal followings and waiting lists just to get in the door. The shops staffed with kids just out of vo-tech or one of the independent schools won't attract the same customers.

This doesn't mean you cannot get first class service at a pep boys, meinicke, midas, goodyear, or whatever, but you have to know the tech and his level of accomplishment (not enough women in repair to warrant a gender-neutral pronoun, sorry girls). It's ability and ethical treatment that makes for a trustworthy tech.

When I worked at two different Pepe stores over five years because I was looking for something better than the narrow focus of a dealership (I had planned on opening my own shop) I always recommended the best parts and the most complete service. Sometimes, if a repair was not in the client's best interest, I advised against doing it. On the other hand, there was a guy three bays down who recommended struts for every car that came in the door.

The trust should go to the people, and not to the sign. I have been to a Toyota shop that I would recommend to no one, for example.

Getting back on track here, chain stores usually use one version of a labor manual and stick to that, and several dealers, at least in my area, run specials on timing bets and clutches that beat the mitchell number because they do so many procedures on their brand of car that they can still make a profit.

So, if you shop around and know some techs, you can do well almost anywhere.