91 Camry won't crank

[toyo1968]

This is a 1991 4 cyl Camry.

The problem started when I changed the whole distributor because there was no spark. The engine would crank fine, but not start. With the new distributor, the engine sputtered a bit, tried to start, but did not run for more than a few seconds. Lot of white smoke from tailpipe. After a few tries, it stopped cranking altogether. At first, the solenoid would click, but then not even that. When I turn the key, there's current draw since the lights will dim after a while. I cleaned battery connectors and charged the battery, but no difference.

Is is possible that the battery died when cranking, and triggered alarm system or something else, that is preventing starting now? What else to look for?

[timebuilder]

From that last sentence, you sound like a former Chrysler owner.

Not only should you charge the battery, but you should take it to a store and have it tested. Some batteries can appear to have a full charge, but be able to deliver so little current that it cannot crank even a small four cylinder motor. This past summer, I had a set of jumpers on my dad's caravan battery and could not get more than a few degrees of crank rotation. A trip to Pepe's for a new battery and it started like a formula one engine.

Test the battery with a load or conductance tester before you take your next step. Obviously, if the battery fails the test, leave it there and come home with a new battery. The right type battery will have the toyota positive terminal fit up nicely. The wrong type will not.

[toyo1968]

Yep, I have had a Chrysler before, but not a single problem ever.

When I tried with jumper cables connected, voltage was at almost 14, and did not drop when trying to crank.

Actually, only the clock dims, exactly like when taking the key off. That would make me assume some relay is opening. The car has a Viper alarm system.

Thanks for any help.

[timebuilder]

The Chryslers had a problem with the ECM acting as though some vehicles were equipped with theft deterrent, when those particular models were not. The dealership fixed them, I assume by changinng out the SMEC.

If the voltage does not drop when you attempt to crank, you are not loading the system with starter draw. I would go to the online mauals and do a diag for the starter circuit, or talk to some one experienced with the Viper system.

[HomeGrown]

Originally Posted by toyo1968

Yep, I have had a Chrysler before, but not a single problem ever.

We also had a Chrysler without a single problem. It was a loaner we had for about 4 hours while my wife's Blazer was being worked on. That thing never gave us a moments problem the entire time we drove it!

[timebuilder]

To be fair to the only car company to officially bailed out by the US Congress, I have kept my dad's 1992 caravan alive for over 230,000 miles.

Of course, dad has always had his own personal mechanic....

[marc780]

You may have put the distributor in backwards. On most cars they design it so you cant do this though - not sure if the camry is like this. Also before you ripped the distributor out next time scribe a mark on the engine and the dist body so you can maintain its EXACT position (rotation set)

[Doctor J]

There is not possible to put distributor backwards on Camry. Was any smell coming from the white smoke (gasoline, rotten egg, sweet)? Remove all sparkplugs and spin the engine by rotating 19 mm bolt in the crank pulley clockwise (ignition OFF).
If engine rotates easy, and the pugs are covered with raw gas, check for spark. If the spark present, check for flooding condition due to defective coolant thermosensor.
The starter also could be damaged by long cranking.
Have you read any codes prior to replacing the distributor?

If car does not start , the normal tests are:

1. spark
2. vacuum (at least 5 inch)
3. fuel

In additon for EFI car two more tests:

1. codes
2. electrical connections.

[timebuilder]

Originally Posted by toyo1968

Yep, I have had a Chrysler before, but not a single problem ever.

When I tried with jumper cables connected, voltage was at almost 14, and did not drop when trying to crank.

Actually, only the clock dims, exactly like when taking the key off. That would make me assume some relay is opening. The car has a Viper alarm system.

Thanks for any help.

Voltage remaining at 14 when you turn the key to the start position suggests you are not loading the battery with starter draw. You should be approaching this with a fully charged and tested battery that is not connected to jumper cables. Have a conductance or load test done on the battery, get it charged, and make certain that the starter is receiving and responding to system volatge on the small starter wire. With those items functioning normally (along with several other items that are unlikely to be a part of this problem) the car will crank.

You might find that there is no voltage on that small starter wire, and yes, it could be an alarm interupt. I would need to see the printed info on the alarm to help you, and so it would be easiest to talk to a local alarm guy.

Get back to us and give us the details of how you solved this problem.