88 camry 4cyl auto wont start... HELP - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-14-2007, 12:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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88 camry 4cyl auto wont start... HELP

my parents car will not start. i have a running 89 camry 5spd. we swap distributor and ignitor. fuel pump and fuel filter was replace with toyota parts about a yr ago. still no start. it cranks but no fire. timing belt looks fine. checked all fuses. seems like no check engine light is lighted. even with the diagnose terminal shorted.

possible ecu? any other i might need to check?
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The ECM may not be setup to store codes on this type of no start condition. A typical problem is the coil, but download the service info at the link below. Toyota has a diagnostics procedure for these types of no start conditions.

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry
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Old 01-14-2007, 01:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I had a similiar problem in my '90 5-speed and it turned out to be a bad EFI relay...though my problem only occured in the heat.
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Old 01-14-2007, 01:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I take the words "no fire" to mean that it will not run, but only cranks.

Have you done a check for spark at any of the spark plug wires, using a tester or old plug grounded to the block?
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Is Check engine light on steady with key in on position?
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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we swap whole distributor with my camry. spark plugs look fine. EFI relay has jus been swap with mine. still no start.

doctor J: no, check engine is not on. even with diagnose terminal short.

jus swap ecu with my 5spd ecu and still no start. very very clueless...
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The first clue is whether or not you have spark on the end of a plug wire, using a tester or an old plug, grounded to the block.
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Old 01-15-2007, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

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Old 01-15-2007, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kep
Back to Dr. J's question. With the key in accessory positionm, before you crank the engine, the idiot lights all go on to let you know that they are working. At this point, is the check engine light on or off?

I too, would like to know if you have spark at the plugs.

Kep

with key on ACC, without cranking... theres no CEL light. others are lit on in ON position. doesnt seem like i have any spark at the end of spark plug wire.

whats next?
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Go to the online manual and lookup the diag for the CEL.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor J
Check plug in connectors on ECU. Make sure they are pushed in.
Next, verify that there is 12 V on the wht/red tracer wires
at all times.
If so, unplug the connectors and check the input/ output circuits using link in Timebuilder's post.
Keep us posted.
i have the haynes manual in front of me.. wht/red wires give me a +b and +b1 as well as IGF. are those suppose to be 12v constant?
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Only B+ and B1+ must be 12 V.
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This is copied from "Tech Tip Corner"

Relay Runaround on Toyota Models
A faulty main circuit opening relay may cause an intermittent no-start condition on several Toyota models. If you are lucky enough to get the vehicle from the customer when it won't start, try this simple check before you waste any time on complicated diagnosis:
  • Turn the ignition to the ON position. The CHECK ENGINE light should be ON.
  • If the CHECK ENGINE light is not ON, locate the main circuit opening relay, then make sure you have more than nine volts on the output pole of the relay with the ignition in the ON position.
  • If the output voltage is below nine volts, but the input voltage to the relay is equal to battery voltage, replace the circuit opening relay. Its internal contacts are probably pitted and arced, which creates a voltage drop inside the relay.

I've spent more than one day on more than one car, trying to find an intermittent relay. Now I check the CHECK ENGINE light before I do any further diagnosis.

Brad Foltz
Miller Auto Group
Hedgeville, West Virginia


I am pretty sure that he is referring to the EFI relay. Since you swapped yours I am perplexed but still if your CEL isn't on when you put the key in accessory position it is awful suspicious. You may want to focus on the EFI wiring and the like.

Kep

Last edited by Kep; 01-18-2007 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Fuel Pump....
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