1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
After I solved the iratic idle problem, time for the second problem. After the car runs for a while and shut it off and come back a few hours later, the car seems to run too rich by idling super low, shaking, and dying some of the time. It stops after the car warms up. What could cause the car to run too rich? I have a fairly new fuel filter btw. It definetly smells like gas when it happens.
I did a diagnose when the car was doing what i explained earlier, as it was running and it died, i had the diagnosis mode running and the check engine light gave the normal blinking code that everything was ok. There is a problem but its not showing on the diagnosis mode?!?!
I'm only on my first cup of coffee, so I want to make sure of what you are saying. You had the diag connector enabled with the engine running, and you are expecting a failure code to be flashed?
it sounds funny, but the check engine light would only come on just before the engine dies. could it be my afm perhaps. The diagnosis also indicated that 2 pin readings were off on my AFM. Can I clean that piece of equipment?
My car displayed very similar symptoms when my cold start injector was bad, only yours sounds much more severe. If the cold start injector is leaking, it will generally be difficult starting after it sits, because of the gas that's dripping into the intake.
The cold start injector is very easy to remove & test. The procedure is in the downloadable manual in the Camry general section.
the afm cleaning idea was dumb as hell on my part. Im gonna check the cold start injector and clean the o2 sensor tomorrow. My distr. needs new seals but would oil on the coil cause the sputtering...its protected in plastic and it wasn't on the button at all, but then again, if its in the cap, oil will get on the bottom points and cover them...oh well. I guess Ill have to throw money at it.
i guess there isn't any real way of testing the CSI other than the ohm measurments, cause I took it off and cleaned it. but if that part leaks, it just leaks all there is too it,. Ill just replace it with one from the yard. Now the o2 on the other hand, will be new
Check your "cold start time switch" with a DVM and the specs from any manual. It's what energizes the cold start injector when starting a cold engine. It may be out of spec and telling the ECU (computer) the engine is morning cold when it is still somewhat warm. This would cause a richer than normal mixture and cause the car to stumble until the extra fuel is cleared out of the cylinders. If you have the 3SFE 2.0 liter engine it's located on a water outlet pipe to the right of the cylinder head (as you are standing in front of the car) under a brown plastic connector. The sensor under the green connector is the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). I would check that out too while the DVM and manual are both handy.
You mentioned a definite smell of gas. If you're smelling that in the engine compartment, look over the engine closely for a real clean spot. When gas leaks it usually makes a small area very clean because it is an excellent solvent for the typical grunge on your engine. I can't argue with any of the former suggestions but I just don't understand the smell. Look closely around the injectors.
I cleaned my afm connector and it seems to have gotton better somehow. BTW, how should I properly check the cold start injector, should I allow the motor to get normal temp and check while running? or engine cold and with key on, engine off?
i guess there isn't any real way of testing the CSI other than the ohm measurments......
Actually there is Matt, and it involves pulling the injector and jumping 2 terminals (FP & B+) on the diagnostic connector. Spec is that it shouldn't drip or leak any more than 4 drops per minute, IIRC. But don't take my word for it, look in the downloadable engine manual to be sure, that's where I found the directions for the test. Mine leaked about 4x the spec limit.
That's only one of the 2 tests, but it's the one you would be concerned with. The other test checks it for actual correct operation.
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CSI leak
Linear Mode
