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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-01-2007, 08:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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strut install tips & tricks

so i just bought new struts for my 1990 camry.. (full assemblies)

anyone have any tips and tricks theyve used to save time??

loosen the top piston rod nut before jacking up the car?? <-- is that a valid one for not having to use a spring compressor?

hacksawing the bracket near the brakelines so you dont have to bleed the brakes?? <-- has this one been verified??

im tempted to start the install right now.. but i will wait until friday afternoon.. (got work in the morning.. unless im convinced i can bust this out tonight)
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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off topic but do you know where your car came from. IT says blue 5spd camry and i think if im rite it says Washington? cuz i had bought my aunts camry from her (she bought it brand new)and its a 5spd blue. She bought it from seattle
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yea, i know the history of mine,...it was assembled in texas, it was originally bought by other family members in california a long time ago
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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hacksawing the bracket near the brakelines so you dont have to bleed the brakes?? <-- has this one been verified?? yes this works..


loosen the top piston rod nut before jacking up the car?? <-- is that a valid one for not having to use a spring compressor? no this will not work. unless you'r using an impact gun.. but be safe and buy a spring compressor.. it's only 8$
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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okay, i guess i dont have any problems renting one from schucks auto supply.. (spring compressor) unless you can really buy one for that cheap, i got no probs doing that too.. what store?

as far as the hacksawing goes, do you think you could get me a crude picture of where exactly i would have to hack it?

http://xs.to is a free image host...

do i just hack a tiny bit near the top of where the brakeline connects on the bracket, then pry the remainder open with a pair of plyers? so i can wiggle it all out (im guessing the brakeline is just funneled all the way through instead of it being in two seperate pieces on each side of the bracket..)
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t121308.html as seen here
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Old 02-02-2007, 12:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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HAHAHAHA!!! I've been doing that for years, but I didn't want to tell anyone because it felt so ghetto! But the hacksaw solution really works, and now when I work on other people's cars, I see that mechanics are doing it too. I find it works best of you pry one side of the clip up, and the other down. That way you spread-out the fatigue on the metal and it won't snap off.
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What do you mean when you say you bought full assemblies? If that is the case they you don't need to get spring compressors. Just have to worry about the brake lines. I've done the hacksaw trick too. But it isn't that hard to bleed the lines, and it is a great opportunity to bleed all the lines and get some new fluid in there. Just get someone to help and pump the pedal.

If you have the full assemblies it is as simple as loosening the two strut to steering knuckle bolts and the three upper strut mount to car nuts. And get the brake line off and pull the whole thing out.
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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means he got the full struts not just the inserts
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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so..anyone know the size of the 2 bolts on the lower strut??? i might have to bust out the tape measure or ruler.. i thought i would have the right size wrench adapter but i dont........... sigh.... now i gotta put the tires back on and goto the store.. and also grab a can of PB while im at it.. torque specs for the top 3 and bottom 2 would be awesome too.. :/

-trying
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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19mm i believe. torque spec for the top 3 is like 20ft/lbs and bottom 2 is as hard as you can anything more than 75ft/lb is good
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I just recently did this project on my own '90 camry. I did this project without a garage... in the winter... I wouldn't suggest doing it outside using the spring compressor tool takes a lot of patiencend a lot of wrench twisting! But use the tool and be safe!
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
But the hacksaw solution really works, and now when I work on other people's cars, I see that mechanics are doing it too.
tbay the first nominee for mad scientist award for 2007. Hacksaw lol i think i would just bleed mine really
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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hacksaw was the one part that went 2000% easier than i thought itd be.

now im stuck in a new dillema. this car is taunting me, torturing the every fiber in my being. my accord was no problem to work on. the impreza a dream. this 1990 camry will be the death of me. its like christine. it taunts me. ive had to purchase 4 new 'lil' tools and adapters.... and now...... when im so close... i cant get this last bolt of from the bottom becuase something is blocking the way from the brakes... i have an impact wrench the top came off easy. i cant even get to the 2nd one. going the opposite side, does nothing.

HOW DO I GET THIS THING OUT OF THE WAAY???????

i need quick help, i need to return a few tool rentals, i hope someone 5 hours later doesnt reply , just help me out. im going insane at this point. INSANE.


please. i beg of you. ive been cut, scraped, gnashed. and beaten by a 17 year old car. i concede defeat

this ONE bolt is the last thing (heh knock on wood... pleasee goddddddddd)

the pic:






i cant even fit the socket in front of it to turn by hand.. let alone my impact wrench..
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Last edited by Skell; 02-16-2007 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 02-16-2007, 05:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I remember this problem with the fronts!

remove the brake caliper, as if you were changing your brake pads. provided you don't put new pads in, the caliper will slide right back on when you're done.

the two bolts that hold it on are 14mm i believe. I'm pretty sure. but it might be 12mm, but i'd try the 14 first.

make sure you're using plenty of penetrating oil on the bolt on the strut. a lil on the brake caliper bolts too will help.

good luck
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