1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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My power steering system is leaking, and a majority of the leak i discovered is coming from the pressure hose that connectst to the power steering pump.
I found these directions on another thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor J
The banjo bolt for high pressure hose is so tight sometimes that the flow control fitting breaks loose inside the pump body.If the high pressure hose needs to be replaced due to the leak (means it will be discarded anyways), then
drain the reservoir
remove right front wheel
disconnect hose at firewall
cut steel portion of hose .25 to .75 inches next to banjo bolt on the pump
move away wires and hoses on the top
assemle 12inch extension + flex.joint + 6 point 22 mm socket head
place socket on the banjo bolt, loosen and remove it with flow control fitting.
clamp flow control fitting in the vise
separate parts.
Using new o-ring 20x1 mm,and 24 mm socket, install fitting into the pump, torque to 50 lb x ft.
Install the new hose.
based on those instructions, it appears that i don't have to remove PS pump as is mentioned in the online manual. Is this an easier process? or would removing the pump be the easier process.
Any procedure that will save you removing the pump will save time and effort. If nothing else, at least this way you won't have to re-adjust the belt tension once you're done. Doctor J's procedure sounds reasonable and somewhat time-saving (and it also solves the problem of the uber-tight banjo bolt).
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
I've never actually repaired a 3SFE, but I've disassembled them at the scrap yard a few times. The pump itself is exactly the same between the 3S and 2VZ, and there's roughly the same amount of space on both blocks. It should work okay.
Note: the intake shouldn't matter, you'll be working under the car. The only slight obstruction is the exhaust Y-pipe...
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Last edited by TBayToyotaBoy; 02-12-2007 at 08:19 PM.
For my method, you do not get under the car. The wheel is removed to facilitate pipe cutting, cleaning, assembly etc. To break loose the banjo bolt you may need at least 60 degree swing, plus some leverage.
I'm looking into replacing the pressure hose in my 88 Camry. It's a V6, so it uses a different hose than the other versions, but still has the banjo bolt. Can I follow the same instructions as the ones on top? If so, is there anything I have to be careful with?
Doctor J posted pictures of the pressure hose here, but the images are down.
Wow, if i found this (or DoctorJ's) thread it would've saved me a whole heap of time. I did it the long way by taking the pump out, such a PITA. Good thing i got small hands xD
Shalb, i think TBayToyotaBoy pretty much answered your question (yes). If not, then you'll just have to drop the pump and you'll also need a vice to put the pump into to undo the banjo bolt (it's tight).
There's a couple things I wanted to make sure before I go pull things out of the car. I was wondering about the step where you cut the banjo bolt. There's barely enough room on top to reach in if I don't take anything off the top (which is quite a lot). There's a wall between the tire and the pump so it doesn't look like I can cut it from the side either. I might have to do part of this from the bottom.
Also, is there any pressure inside the pump (in the case that the pressure hose wasn't broken)? If so, is there any precautions I need to take when removing or installing?
I've got pdfs of the repair manual and it only has instructions on how to change the pressure hose by taking out the pump. I've got now way of measuring the tension for the belt for reinstallation, so I really don't want to take out the pump.
No pressure when the pump is not spinning, but some p/s fluid may dribble out.
It should be 10-13mm deflection with 100N force on it(mass of 10Kg). Trial and error (with a rod and bathroom scales from underneath with someone on top to tell you the readings) as you have to lever the pump out, tighten, then check tension.
Just in case I have to resort to taking out the pump, how exactly would I use the bathroom scale? The one I have is the ones you step on.
Get a metal rod (long-ish) and sandwich it between the bathroom scale and the p/s belt. I wouldn't advise you to do this with a glass bathroom scale though, just the normal one.
What happens if the tension is too tight or loose?
The instructions sways to use an SST. What is that?
For the banjo bolt, does it have a certain position for it to be in in order for it to work? If so, how do you make sure you get it in the right position when you're screwing the banjo bolt back in?
What happens if the tension is too tight or loose?
The instructions sways to use an SST. What is that?
For the banjo bolt, does it have a certain position for it to be in in order for it to work? If so, how do you make sure you get it in the right position when you're screwing the banjo bolt back in?
Re-adjust until it's correct. If you mean the impacts a tight/loose belt will have is:
Too tight - Extra strain on the p/s pump pulley which can prematurely wear the bearings
Too loose - The belt slips (it squeals)
SST= Special Service Tool.
No, banjo bolt works in any way. Just make sure you get new copper washers(gaskets).
I was told that there's a relay that controls the power steering and if I took that out, it would stop the pump. I know it's not an ideal method, but at the very least it lets me use the car in emergencies without worrying about further damaging the belt/pump when the oil level is low.
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