1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I'm looking for some 16x6, 16x7 with offset of 35-42mm, 5x100. Or even some 17", would be better.
Does anyone know what make or model of other vehilces would have stock size steel rims? I want to go junk yarding a get a set. I've trying to look up a few different GM models (FWD) but haven't really had any luck. Then I thought I would ask the knowledge of the board.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
That shouldn't matter, as the wheel is located (centered) by the lugnuts.
Having had *personal* experience with high-speed vibration due to mis-matched hub/wheel sizes, I can tell you that's not true. Whenever possible, you should use wheels that were meant for your hub size...
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
Someone please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but the center hole of the wheel on our cars do not locate on the hubs. Having just completed a 4-wheel swap, I am quite certain this is the case. Although it was starting to rain, so I was a bit hurried.
Someone please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but the center hole of the wheel on our cars do not locate on the hubs. Having just completed a 4-wheel swap, I am quite certain this is the case. Although it was starting to rain, so I was a bit hurried.
Ok, I'll correct you. Wheels made specifically for the Camry have a 54.1mm center bore that fits perfectly on the hub. This is what allows you to snug the lug nuts down, set the car down then torque them correctly. If the hub did not correctly locate the wheels, there is a good chance you would get vibration. Yes, the lugs do a decent job of locating the wheels, but they need help from the hub.
The wheel swap you did was from Camry specific steelies to Camry specific alloys - so you probably didn't even notice that they slid very nicely onto the hub.
I personally had an issue with my WRX (aftermarket wheels that were missing the correct hubcentric spacers), but the issue is the same with most cars...
The new Celica 16" wheels require lug nuts with flat washers (not the angled nuts that are stock on the Camry). When you put those wheels on, it becomes very obvious that you need the hub to do the centering of the wheel.
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
I agree with Charlie on this one. I speak from experience too. HomeGrown what you are talking about, "lug centering" is called lug centeric. What Charlie is talking about, "hub centering" is called hub centeric. I do believe almost all stock cars/wheels us the hubcentric centering method. But they do make platic rings that fit into hubs that are to large for the hub. This sizes the hole down so the wheel will center on the hug like a stock wheel. It is the best and easiest to get good results. You can tell when wheel is a little out of balance especially with todays larger rim sizes.
Last summer I got my first set of 18" rims for my wifes '99 camry. They sent me the wrong hub centric adaptors. So I ran the wheels without the for week until I got them. You could feel a very slight vibration. Once I put the hub centering rings on very thing was good, no more vibration. On the other hand I had a '88 celica in high school. I put aftermarket 15" rims on. I never had the hub centering rings, just used the lugs to center. It seemed to work fine. But I had to be careful as I tightened the lugs as the wheel would move a little as each lug was tightend.
I'm sure the 15" rims didn't make as big of a difference as the 18". Because the 18" rims have more mass, and more rotational mass, which is also further toward the outer edge of the wheel, i.e. less tire sidewall, more metal rim.
My 2 cents, correct me if I'm wrong, hope this helps
Thanks for the link heads up atobe. I'm either looking for some steelies to run bare, or I'm just going to spend about $750 on a nice set of aftermarket rims from Edge Racing.
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