more camry problems....idling - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

MattSWE · 03-01-2007, 03:57 PM

hey guys, a few problems have developed since my iac valve replavement. When in neutral the car will stay a constant 2k rpm and when idling like that and driving, when I go to give it gas...the car shudders bad like it falls on its face. But when It idles down and i give it gas...the car does fine.

plus a few cluster lights are staying on like my e-brake cable light, charge battery and car "lights" in the upper right hand corner. What is the freakin problem. only 150,000 thus far.

thanks

-MattSWE

monito · 03-01-2007, 04:35 PM

RE: cluster lights. Test your charging system. The alternator or the voltage regulator may be on the fritz.

Kingdom934 · 03-02-2007, 02:26 AM

A Charging light/Battery light + Brake light is usually the sign of a failing alternator or something to do with it. Might want to check the charging system before you get stranded.

Mike Gerber · 03-02-2007, 01:28 PM

I agree with the 2 previous psoters, the problem with the lights on the dash is usually a defective alternator. Replace it, recharge the battery and then try the car again. There is a slight possibility that the other problem you are experiencing is associated with the battery being very weak from the defective alternator. There may not be enough voltage to properly fire the plugs and ignite the mixture in the cylinders.

If the first problem isn't solved by the new alternator and a battery recharge, I would look for vacuum leaks. Check all the vacuum lines and check the large tube leading to the throttle body. They can crack with age and allow unmetered air in to the system. The ECU just can not compensate for unmetered air.

Mike

MattSWE · 03-03-2007, 01:06 AM

tonight while I drove my car home, the lights stayed on and after driving for a little bit, they went off. The car starts fine and doesn't fluctuate during idling it just stays at 2k rpm forever. When im driving with the high idle and step on the gas, the car stumbles real bad. Could it be the cold start injector thats giving me the idling problem?

88 LE · 03-03-2007, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattSWE

Could it be the cold start injector thats giving me the idling problem?

I doubt it. The cold start injector only functions within a certain temperature range and when the engine is cranking/starting.

IvanHoe · 03-03-2007, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

I agree with the 2 previous psoters, the problem with the lights on the dash is usually a defective alternator. Replace it, recharge the battery and then try the car again. There is a slight possibility that the other problem you are experiencing is associated with the battery being very weak from the defective alternator. There may not be enough voltage to properly fire the plugs and ignite the mixture in the cylinders.

Mike

+1!!!

I 100% believe your two problems are both caused from the same thing......a bad alternator.
When a fuel injected car has a bad alternator, it's NOT getting enough gas....the fuel injectors are electronicly controlled.
Ive had many a car over the years(my pops is a used car dealer + I get bored real quick), and I had this happen to me quite a few times, where Ive needed a tow due to my alternator calling it quits.
Now......the carbeurated vehicles dont have this problem cause the fuel system is mechanical.......sometimes I miss the old days

.......So get it checked out before you get stranded in the middle of nowhere.

monito · 03-03-2007, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattSWE

tonight while I drove my car home, the lights stayed on and after driving for a little bit, they went off.

My car did exactly the same thing. I drove a couple months like this, and then last january or feb, i heard a hum/buzzing coming from the alternator. I took my car to Kragen [by recommendations from TN] to have the charging system tested, and they told me that there was absolutely no charge in the charging system. the Tech at Kragen advised me to change my alternator ASAP b/c i was driving purely on the battery, and if i continued to do so, i'd risk the chance of getting stranded in the middle of nowhere.

MattSWE · 03-03-2007, 01:51 PM

I have a multimeter, how would I check the voltage myself and do a load test?

Mike Gerber · 03-03-2007, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattSWE

I have a multimeter, how would I check the voltage myself and do a load test?

You can't do a load test with just a multimeter, however, you can do a voltage test. First, set the meter on 20 volts DC. Now, with the engine off, touch the 2 probes to the 2 battery terminals. If the battery is fully charged, you should see a reading of above 12 volts. Now start the engine and do the same test. If the alternator is charging properly, you should see a reading of around 14-1/2 volts. If you are still reading just battery voltage, your alternator is defective or the belt is loose.

Mike

monito · 03-03-2007, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattSWE

I have a multimeter, how would I check the voltage myself and do a load test?

my post from another thread

Quote:

Originally Posted by monito

2) check your charging system. You'll need a Multimeter

~with your engine off, hook up the DMM to the battery with the alligator clips. If ur DMM doesn't have the gator clips, you'll need someone to help you test your charging system w/ the engine on. Check the battery's voltage. with the engine off [and depending on the life of the battery] it should be around 12.6V or more for a battery @ 100%

~ Turn on the engine; turn off headlamps, and all other accessories. With the engine idling, take a DMM reading on the battery. It should be between 13.2~15.1V

If the voltage w/ the engine idling is below 13.2V, ur alternator could be on it's way out.

MattSWE · 03-03-2007, 11:20 PM

on my way home from a friends house my cluster lights were on as usual, when I noticed my clock getting dimmer and my stereo was shutting off also. Then My headlights were fading as well as any light I could see in the car right in front of me. Pretty soon the car was wanting to die, I pulled over, letting it idle for a few minutes, then shut it off. when I tried to start it up again....guess what fellas.....you're right...the car clicked and wouldn't start. My father jumped the car and It did fine after the jump, but now there is a distinct whine that I can hear when driving.

My alternator has probably been my problem this whole time. Its getting checked out tomorrow.

MattSWE · 03-04-2007, 12:41 PM

I went to autozone to have my alt tested on car. My volts were ok but It only showed 3 amps. Im guessing that sucks ass. What kind of amperage should I be getting?!?!

I took my alt off, and its back to the zone to bench test it hopefully buy a new one.
the alternator test failed and I bought and installed a new one. But the idle was reving to 2k rpm, so I unplugged the IAC and it started Idling normal....can I just leave the IAC unplugged?!?!

Mike Gerber · 03-05-2007, 02:42 PM

"can I just leave the IAC unplugged?!?!"

I'm not sure about that. I have never tried doing it.

As to what's causing the 2000 RPM idle; I can only guess. You could have a vacuum leak somewhere. Your ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor could be out of spec and telling the computer that the engine is cold, when it is actually warm. You will need the DVM and the specs from any manual to test it. Be sure to test it cold and then warm. Also, the throttle valve may be sticking inside the throttle body, but I would think this wouldn't return to normal by unplugging the IAC valve. May still be worth checking. This one will only take a minute or two to check.

Mike