1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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am i going to need to replace my fuel line (pics inside)
hello, although i just joined here today and this is my first post, i hope you guys wouldn't mind helping me out.
my 88 camry (v4 auto 153k) just started struggling uphill and when accelerating from idle, so i tried to replace the fuel filter. now i'm decently handy, and i figured, "hey it's just a filter, how hard could it be?" but this job gave me nothing but problems. after a trip to the store for a can of pb blaster and a set of flare wrenches, i finally got it off, but noticed something funny when putting the new filter on. the end of my fuel line looks like this:
it seems that although i kept the filter in the bracket as the haynes manual instructed when removing the fuel filter, i may (i say may because it may have always been like this, i have owned the car for less than a year) still managed to twist the fuel line. am i off the road until I replace my fuel line? what are the courses of action availible to me at this moment?
If the line is as it looks like crimped like that then yes you will have to replace it. It will impede the flow of the line and the fitting itself might start leaking too. Sorry for the bad news
If the line is as it looks like crimped like that then yes you will have to replace it. It will impede the flow of the line and the fitting itself might start leaking too. Sorry for the bad news
it's not crimped, it seems to be twisted 90 degrees, if that makes any sense
Even still any flow disruption is a bad thing and the spot will be weaker from the metal distortion. I'd get others opinion in this forum. They know what they are doing. I myself vote to replace it while you have access to it. I've always hated those fittings. I bent quite a few when they were hard to get apart.
Best way is to shop for a new or used fuel line, check junkyards. If no luck the line is most likely flared in front of the fitting. If there is enough extra tube you can cut the line install the fitting, reflare with the proper hand tool and reinstall. A tool rental store may have them. Bring in the old fitting to make sure you get the right flare angle.
You could also find a section of fuel tube and flare this or even find a section that is already flared. Cut off the old pipe until clean material is present, then gap any breaks with flexible high-pressure fuel hose. Or a shop could make a new line.
Do a TN history search as this problem has come up before.
I think i see a threaded male fitting that fits the fuel filter, and some rubber hose back there. So if this were my deal heres what it would do. Find a fitting, perhaps you can just use the old one, and a piece of steel tubing with a flare to fit the fitting. The flare is what seals of course so this part is non negotiable. You could even use brake line if the flare fits the fitting, they sell this at most all the auto parts.
Then all you need is to hacksaw the end off the tubing and plumb in some rubber hose (fuel hose NOt vacuum hose). And a coupla hose clamps and you are in business.
Welcome to the forum, cvandiv!
I used to live in MI (Fenton) and work in Plymouth, Livonia, Novi, etc.
I've seen fuel and brake lines do that before, but normally they do it when they're being removed after many rusty years. Odd thing about your pic is that it appears to have been twisted when tightening the fitting, and this is not when that type of damage normally will occur.
One possible fix is to cut the fuel line back a few inches to a good straight part, then hit the hardware store for a short piece of rubber fuel line hose and a barbbed fitting to go into the fuel filter. I would double-clamp the fuel hose onto the steel line if you go this route though, just to be safe.
The easiest fix is to do like most are saying here and use a section of rubber, EFI FUEL hose. You will have to cut the line back to a spot that isn't rusty, isn't thinned out mainly. That when you clamp to it won't collapse. Then get a barbed fitting that will fit into the fuel filter, or a short piece of brake line, cut one end off leave it a few inches long, and reuse you flare fitting if you can. Or get new flare fitting. If you are going to use the brake line, make sure you use the factory made double flare, don't just make your own single flare, it will leak! When you are clamping the rubber fuel hose, make sure you use FUEL INJECTION rated clamps. Ideal makes a nice set of them, they are the worm gear style and won't chew up the rubber hose.
Two places I would recommend, not sure if you have these in your area. First, Automotive supply, second Advance Auto. I know for a fact the will both have the exact clamps, and all the other parts.
I've had to deal with gas lines to much in the last few years, so take my word for it do it once, and do it right. They will leak really easy. Make sure that when you are attaching the rubber hose to your old rusty line that you clean it off good, use emery cloth or something like that. Get all the fakey rust off, or if you don't get a good seal the gas will work its way through the layer of rust, and seep through. One thing that works good after cleaning the rust off, is to take a thin layer of black RTV sealant and coat the old line before sliding the rubber hose on and clamping.
all right, i put it all together with a breakline, fuel injection hose, and some clamps. i replaced the fuse and went to start it up (before i put it all back together) and sadly it is leaking at the top. does anybody know where the washers go? for some reason i recall removing both washers from one side of the banjo fitting. thoughts?
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