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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-11-2007, 11:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Damn it...

Can the suspension crossmember bolts be removed without requesting God's Hand from the heavens? I mean dang, in the Haynes manual there was an illustration of a person using regular hand tools so I guess it was somewhat easy. It would have saved me a lot of time, frustration and energy, I tell ya. Cheater bars didn't work and I snapped one of my ratchets, and that thing has loosened some TOUGH bolts. I need some air tools...
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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you need a breaker bar and a probably a pipe over the end of it for extra leverage if its being a pain. Impact guns are good too.

breaker bar isnt a ratchet, just a handle with a socket attachment on the end. if you use a regular ratchet with a pipe on it, youll break the ratchet everytime.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow, are they rusted or just torqued on there with The Hand of God? I've worked on a lot of rusty old Gen2's and never had a problem loosening them. An extension bar for 1/2-inch drive always works.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Haha my terminology is off. Yeah I broke a breaker bar and used a one-and-a-half foot long pipe attached to it. I also used my weight training bar too (longer) and barely budged a millimeter. Does 1/2-inch make a big difference over a 3/8? Maybe it's all the PS fluid getting gunk on it. *sigh* Too late now, gotta do the other side tomorrow.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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if thats the case, PB blaster is your friend. clean all that crap off and pray you dont round off the bolt, youd be royally screwed if that happened.
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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man i've seen my mechanic take it off with one of those big ass impact gun..when he was doing my diff oil change

http://www.menintools.com/airtool/ir285a6.html one of these .. those things are just on there and after 15 yrs it's not gonna get lose easily
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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good lord thats over kill. Ive done it with just a breaker bar, but having a regualr impact gun does make life easier.

that thing is an impact canon.
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuron
Does 1/2-inch make a big difference over a 3/8?
Yeah, definately. A 1/2" breaker bar and a good 6 point socket would be your best bet.
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuron
Does 1/2-inch make a big difference over a 3/8? Maybe it's all the PS fluid getting gunk on it.
Holy jumpin' jahosifats, don't use a 3/8 drive! That's more appropriate for, say, unbolting fenders or radiator fittings--it's way too weak to remove a suspension bolt that's torqued on at 150lb-ft.

As far as p/s fluid, that would probably tend to lubricate the threads somewhat, likely making it easier to remove. And Tommy is right: be careful not to round-off the head, you don't want to be drilling and retapping a bolt hole that large.
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thats nothing, wait till the weld on the nut up in the body breaks loose and the bolt just goes around and you cant get it out
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Fred is right, don't apply so much pressure that you break the weld on the nut, that sucks just as much as a rounded bolt head. I would highly recommend an impact wrech. If you don't have a compressor, then get a electric impact, or try to rent one. Your chances are better with a impacting action to loosen the bolt, than to just use shear twisting force.
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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While we're on the subject of those peskywelded nuts, has anyone ever successfully dealt with that? I had it happen on the front end, where the hollow pan (the one that the stabilizer bar attaches to) bolts into the frame. I had to use a hole saw to cut the side of the frame out, so I could fix it. But with the LCA/crossmember mount on the frame under the passenger's feet, I just can't see how you could deal with that.

I'm going to be swapping the engine soon, and I just know it'll be a problem...anyone have suggestions?
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Old 04-13-2007, 12:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Try a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe and a good socket. If that doesn't work go rent an impact gun and compressor or appeal to a mechanic to loosen them for you. But these are 150 ft lb fasteners. I had trouble believing how hard I had to strain when I used a torque wrench (also 1/2") to refasten them.

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Old 04-13-2007, 08:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Alright guys, just installed both arms and went out for a drive. It's rough! I thought my wheels weren't tightened or something but they were. So I'm thinking this:

a. I have to wait for the components to "settle"

b. bolts too tight

c. bolts too lose

I'll check again tomorrow or maybe after a day of driving.
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I gotta ask though, what components are torqued to 250ft lb? That's the highest limit I've seen on torque wrenches. Those must be insanely hard to get out.
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