1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Can the suspension crossmember bolts be removed without requesting God's Hand from the heavens? I mean dang, in the Haynes manual there was an illustration of a person using regular hand tools so I guess it was somewhat easy. It would have saved me a lot of time, frustration and energy, I tell ya. Cheater bars didn't work and I snapped one of my ratchets, and that thing has loosened some TOUGH bolts. I need some air tools...
you need a breaker bar and a probably a pipe over the end of it for extra leverage if its being a pain. Impact guns are good too.
breaker bar isnt a ratchet, just a handle with a socket attachment on the end. if you use a regular ratchet with a pipe on it, youll break the ratchet everytime.
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1991 Nissan Maxima SE V6 5SPD - daily beater - Sold
1988 VW GTI 1.8l 16v - weekend beater - Blown engine
2005 Elantra GT sedan 5spd - Woo, no more beatup cars!
Wow, are they rusted or just torqued on there with The Hand of God? I've worked on a lot of rusty old Gen2's and never had a problem loosening them. An extension bar for 1/2-inch drive always works.
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Haha my terminology is off. Yeah I broke a breaker bar and used a one-and-a-half foot long pipe attached to it. I also used my weight training bar too (longer) and barely budged a millimeter. Does 1/2-inch make a big difference over a 3/8? Maybe it's all the PS fluid getting gunk on it. *sigh* Too late now, gotta do the other side tomorrow.
Does 1/2-inch make a big difference over a 3/8? Maybe it's all the PS fluid getting gunk on it.
Holy jumpin' jahosifats, don't use a 3/8 drive! That's more appropriate for, say, unbolting fenders or radiator fittings--it's way too weak to remove a suspension bolt that's torqued on at 150lb-ft.
As far as p/s fluid, that would probably tend to lubricate the threads somewhat, likely making it easier to remove. And Tommy is right: be careful not to round-off the head, you don't want to be drilling and retapping a bolt hole that large.
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Fred is right, don't apply so much pressure that you break the weld on the nut, that sucks just as much as a rounded bolt head. I would highly recommend an impact wrech. If you don't have a compressor, then get a electric impact, or try to rent one. Your chances are better with a impacting action to loosen the bolt, than to just use shear twisting force.
While we're on the subject of those peskywelded nuts, has anyone ever successfully dealt with that? I had it happen on the front end, where the hollow pan (the one that the stabilizer bar attaches to) bolts into the frame. I had to use a hole saw to cut the side of the frame out, so I could fix it. But with the LCA/crossmember mount on the frame under the passenger's feet, I just can't see how you could deal with that.
I'm going to be swapping the engine soon, and I just know it'll be a problem...anyone have suggestions?
__________________ 1990 5spd V6 Camry (Still kicking at 393,000km) 1991 Celica GTS -- Pappa needs a 3SGTE...and AWD for all this friggin' snow
Honda my A$$, you just can't kill a Yota...
Try a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe and a good socket. If that doesn't work go rent an impact gun and compressor or appeal to a mechanic to loosen them for you. But these are 150 ft lb fasteners. I had trouble believing how hard I had to strain when I used a torque wrench (also 1/2") to refasten them.
Alright guys, just installed both arms and went out for a drive. It's rough! I thought my wheels weren't tightened or something but they were. So I'm thinking this:
a. I have to wait for the components to "settle"
b. bolts too tight
c. bolts too lose
I'll check again tomorrow or maybe after a day of driving.
I gotta ask though, what components are torqued to 250ft lb? That's the highest limit I've seen on torque wrenches. Those must be insanely hard to get out.
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