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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 05-13-2007, 11:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What is wrong with my wagon? :(

1990 v6 wagon. Symptoms are: it heistates very badly all the way through the rpm, but its the worst from a stop. When I say hesitates I mean its feels like there is sludge in the motor, its not a timing issue. Along with that there is a ton of smoke comming out of my exhaust, it seems to come out the most right after the car hesitates. It seems almost like the worse it hesitates the more smoke that comes out. Can anyone please shine some light? !!
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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What color is the smoke? (white, bluish, brown/black?)

It is most likely a problem with your ignition system. How long has it been since you replaced your spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? The ignition coil (inside the distributor) is also known to crack and go bad - this would show up more in wet weather.

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Old 05-14-2007, 08:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The coil onV-6 is on the bracket next to the battery.
What is the color of smoke?
White or blue smoke on acceleration accompanied with hesitation indicates major engine mechanical problem (leaking head gasket or bad piston rings)
black smoke with loud backfire with rotten egg smell together with bad fuel economy means rich condition.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'll need to check again but I think its white/greyish. The oil is clean so it probably isnt the head gasket. Could leaking front seals cause this?

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Old 05-14-2007, 03:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor J
The coil onV-6 is on the bracket next to the battery.
Heh... missed that the car was a V6. Yeah. I still would look at the ignition system first.

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Old 05-14-2007, 09:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I would also say it is the ignition. I had a 1990 V6 wagon, and it burned a little smoke to when I would get on it hard, especially when it was first started and cold, both engine, and ambiet temp.

I once had a problem like you are describing. My wife was actully then one that experienced it. She took the car out one damp moring. Just drove a mile and back, on the way back the car was missing and quit. This happened a few times. It would always restart easy. It would also stummble on acceleration, and lacked power. Then check engine light even came on. When I read the code it was the ignition amplifier.

So I dug into the igntion system. Side note: with electrical, AC it is the neutal (white wire) that always causes the problem, with DC it is always the ground that causes the problem. So I started unplugging all the electrical connectors that related to the ignition system. I didn't mess with plugs, wires, or cap and rotor. I just looked at the 12V side of the ignition system. All the connectors where tight, but I put dielectric grease in them any way. At this point I was stumped. Every thing looked good. Then I thought I don't see any ground wires? How is this thing grounded? Well the ignition coil and then igniton amplifier, small silver box with little fins, are bolted together on a bracket next to the battery that is bolted to the car.

So I unbolted it and when I pulled it up I saw a ton of rust and corrosion. I took an air tool with a wire wheel and cleaned the metal to shinny clean metal both on the bracket and on the car. There are two studs the the bracket bolts to. So I put a star washer on each for good measure and then coated the area with dielectric grease. Then I put the coil/ignition amp on and bolted it down.

After this I took the car for a test drive. I could actually notice a difference. The car sounded better, accelerated with more power, and ran smoother. I couldn't believe it! It had the same power increase as about half of what you get from a cone filter and an intake.

This may not be your problem but it should like it, give it a try let me know what happens. I spent three hours trying to trace down this problem, and it was so simple and easy.

The I own a 4 cylinder wagon now and they have the same set up with the coild and ignition amp. The car had a miss and didn't run smooth. That is one of the first things I did when I got the car. But on that one I took piece of 10 gauge wire, crimped a ring terminal on both ends. One end I put over the stud, and then put the coil/ ign amp bracket on top of it and bolted it down. And the other end I put under the same bolt that the battery ground goes to on the driver side fender. This way it is directly grounded to the battery. Not through the mounting stud, car metal, fender bolt, and battery ground wire. I also put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and reset the timing. No problems with this car and it is an '88. Gas mileage went from 25-27 mpg, to 30-33 mpg.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-29-2007, 01:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
... Hope this helps!
Yes, very much. I will have to check that on mine, which has an occaisional miss when it's really wet.

Makes me have a bit more respect for grounding kits, which I previously considered complete hogwash.
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