1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Does anyone know how a Gen2 with a 3S-FE would handle a 160-180 thermostat? Would there be any noticeable increase in fuel consumption or engine wear?
When the weather gets hot here, I get bad engine knock once the engine is up to normal temp, so I'm looking for a way to get rid of that while running 87 octane. I keep the ignition system in good condition, so I'm positive it's a result from overheating in the cylinders.
Does anyone know how a Gen2 with a 3S-FE would handle a 160-180 thermostat? Would there be any noticeable increase in fuel consumption or engine wear?
When the weather gets hot here, I get bad engine knock once the engine is up to normal temp, so I'm looking for a way to get rid of that while running 87 octane. I keep the ignition system in good condition, so I'm positive it's a result from overheating in the cylinders.
bump the timing up a few degrees.....that should take care of the "spark knock"
Also I recommend using a t-stat at factory specs.....Im sure Toyota engineers have put plenty of thought and reason into these things
The EGR system could be plugged up, that causes knocking.
excellent point....the valve can be removed with the pipe together and cleaned out....when I did it, my gas mileage improved........for instructions, do a search in the forum and it will pop up
Changing the thermostat to a non-factory rating, is the very LAST thing you want to do. Don't do it. The thermostat's only purpose is to keep the water in the engine when the engine is cold, so that the engine will warm up faster. When the engine is warm enough, only then is the thermostat supposed to open to allow water into the radiator.
So, the only thing a lower rating thermostat is going to do is delay your engine warm-up time. After that, this part is completely out of the loop. It is not going to fix the problem you are trying to fix.
If you have engine knock, the way to fix it lies elsewhere - spark knock can be caused by: too much carbon in the combustion chamber (caused by too much short trip driving), too advanced timing, non-operating knock sensor if used. I'd leave the thermostat alone in any event -
Thanks for the replies. The timing is good, and has new plugs, so now I'm thinking maybe the engine is just dirty. The EGR was plugged a while back, but I cleaned it out. I caved in and went to 89 octane yesterday, resulting in less knock, but it's still there. I either have to floor it or accelerate really, really slow. I don't take it on short trips.
Possibly related: When accelerating hard, the power surges, as if someone is under the hood playing with the air flow. It's also hard to start when cold (I had a post about this a few years ago I think), meaning I have to crank the starter for a bit, wait a good 5-6 seconds, and then crank again before it starts to catch and the check engine light goes out. I tried everything to solve this before giving up. Dirty engine messing up fuel/air composition?
With ~570k on it, I'm hesitant about taking it apart/spraying stuff in for cleaning. The car works, but it could work better.
Try to clean the MAF sensor - EGR wouldn't affect driving, only idle and other high vacuum conditions. Also maybe a junkyard- replacement part is worth a try.
This engine tends to carbon up. In warm weather I would use Regane by Gumout ($6/bottle)every 3k miles and that worked to get rid of ping. I had tried Techron by Chevron and didn't work as well, ping was still there.
If you are replacing the thermostat. Go with stock temp as everyone has said, and also spent the extra money on a good stant super stat. Well worth it, when I put a new thermo in my 4 runner I put in cheapy. I was still having problems so I went all out and put the super stat in. Now that is all I use on all my vehicles. I could actually see the temp gauge on the dash work faster and it was more responsive to the temp and thermostat opening and closing.
You mentioned that the EGR was clogged. You probably already have done this so you can ignor this post. However, there are several items right in that area that need to be cleaned. Like Ivanhoe mentioned, the vertical pipe that it sits on can be clogged. Also the hole on the throttle body and the rubber hose on the bottom of the EGR going to the modulator. While you're in the neighborhood, clean out the modulator valve, the IAC valve and the throttle body (ports & butterfly).
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