Finally decided to change head gasket.... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-06-2007, 12:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Finally decided to change head gasket....

So now that this car has officially become the slowest car in the world, and it kicks up white smoke every morning, it eats coolant and leaks oil...

I have decided to do something about it. With the car at 97k on the odometer, I can't help but feel a little dissapointed.

Despite being disapointed, I will try to make the best out of this by replacing:

Head gasket
valve seals (theres oil on one of the spark plugs)
timing belt and water pump
and radiator (lots of rust...LOTS)

and anything else you experts here at Toyota Nation might say would be best

I pretty mechanically inclined, but this will be a first for all of these things.

Im also having a problem finding a place to do this (I live in an apartment)

what kind of help/advice can you guys offer?
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you sure it is a head gasket and not a leak some place else? A shop test the coolant for exhaust gases and do a pressure test.

Download the service info from the link below:

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

Make sure you have all/most of the tools, parts, gaskets and way to get to the auto parts store. You will need a torque wrench.

If you are just pulling the head, you may be able to leave the exhaust manifold and intake items attached. Problem areas may be getting the crank pulley bolt off (you will need a way to lock the pulley), removing valve springs (need a spring compressor), pulling off old valve stem seals. The seals are buried in the head.

Pick up one of the pens just yards use to mark parts. Align engine crank and cam at TDC, mark cam gear locations so you don’t need to guess upon reassembly. Be sure to use the locking bolt on the came gear and remove afterward (see manual). Keep separate each valves shim, shim holder and other parts or you will be needed to readjust the valve clearance up assembly.

Mark any wires you remove, put bolts in plastic bags and mark them, if you have a digital camera take photos.

When removing the head bolts, reverse the installation procedure. Don’t just back them out all the way one at a time.

One issue would be what to do if the head is cracked or warped.

If you living in apartment, check with (or at least get a feel for) if management has issues with auto work. You can always leave the hood on, closing it when not working and no one will know the difference.

If you know what you are doing the job is pretty straightforward. If first time, plan on taking you time and having a few setbacks.

The radiator is an easy replacement as is water pump (get all the gaskets with pump), also get a new T-stat.

Shop around for parts, Toyota will charge the most. You can buy aftermarket seals that are much cheaper then Toyota.

Last edited by toyomoho; 06-08-2007 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 06-08-2007, 01:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The exhaust manifold with converter must be removed.
The throttle body and outlet for the upper hose are disconnected; the head goes out with intake and injectors attached.
Unplug and roll away the engine wire harness.
Remove the battery.
Drain for the coolant is at the back of the block.
You may have to slide a large "pet tray"under the engine as a secondary containment measure.
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Old 06-08-2007, 03:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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awesome, two great posts. This is exaclty the sort of thing Iwashoping for. Thanks guys, for the know how and for taking the time to share.
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Old 06-26-2007, 10:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i would do a valve job at the same time since you are ripping the head off - i think it'd be a mistake not to
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Old 06-26-2007, 11:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Would it be feasible to change the main seals while he is in there?

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