1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Once in a while, on the first turn of the key, the car would just crank forever and not do anything. However, it will start on the second crank everytime. I can't pinpoint as to when this actually happens because it happens in a variety of situations. Is it a dirty fuel filter? Spark plugs maybe?
Once in a while, on the first turn of the key, the car would just crank forever and not do anything. However, it will start on the second crank everytime. I can't pinpoint as to when this actually happens because it happens in a variety of situations. Is it a dirty fuel filter? Spark plugs maybe?
Well, it's not your spark plugs or fuel filter because my 3S-FE Celica does it and both of those are new-ish. I've also noticed mine will never do it first thing in the morning but it will normally do it after it's been sitting at work and I crank it.
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I'm strongly against picketing, but I'm not sure how to show it...
Try to give more information on when this happens. Is the engine morning cold? Is the engine warm? Is the weather wet/damp? How many miles on the car? What maintainance has been done to the car? How long has this been happening? Is it happening more frequently now?
On cold mornings, it will happen and it will not. This problem recently just started. Doesn't happen when the engine is warm, I guess it's only when it's been sitting a while...? Not even sure on that. Sorry for the scant details but it's so sporadic. It has 16x thousand miles on it. Hm, I kinda just replaced the cold start switch with a junkyard unit. I had to splice the connections though, as the plugs are different between the years.
On cold mornings, it will happen and it will not. This problem recently just started. Doesn't happen when the engine is warm, I guess it's only when it's been sitting a while...? Not even sure on that. Sorry for the scant details but it's so sporadic. It has 16x thousand miles on it. Hm, I kinda just replaced the cold start switch with a junkyard unit. I had to splice the connections though, as the plugs are different between the years.
My first guess would have been that cold start time switch. Are you sure your spliced connections are good? If so, I would get hold of a digital volt ohmeter and check the cold start time switch and compare your readings with the readings in the manual. Remember, there is generation 2 manual stickied at the top of the General Camry Forum. The one you got from the junk yard may not be any better than the one that was in your engine. They have a tendancy to go with age and the generation 1 and 2 Camrys have been around for quite a few years. If the cold start time switch checks out Ok, I would then check the coil inside the distributor. They are another problem area on the older Camrys, especially the generation 2 Camrys. Again you will need the DVM and the specs form the manual.
I changed the spark plugs today since it's been a while and...found oil on one of the plugs . Haynes said it might be worn valve guides or piston rings or something...what a money pit this car has been.
Is the firing end of the plug (the insulator) has ash-like deposits? If firing end of the plug is clean, then the oil on the TOP portion of the thread indicates minor leak of the spark plug tube seal.Oil just fills the well and is getting on the thread while you are pulling the plug out.This condition will not cause the symptoms you are describing.
The ign. rotor insulation is only 1 mm thick, compared to 2.5 mm on my old supra and 1/8 inch on GM cars.Try different rotor, it is only 3 bucks. Because of bad rotor I had not-starting problem too.
There are sure signs of bad coil insulation:
-cracks on the plastic and
-two burned charred spots below the signal reluctor tooth.This is where the spark jumps to the metal (distributor shaft) in case of internally broken wires or similar reasons, causing the jumpy tach pointer on acceleration.
Yeah the oil is on the top portion, whew! How come all the spark plug tube seals are so loose? I just bought a distributor rotor so I'll just test it out. BTW, when I installed new brake pads on the front, within the first inch of pedal movement it squeaks and then nothing if I press the brake more. Is it from those little clips? I just bought a set to see.
This sounds EXACTLY like the symptoms my car had due to the leaking cold start injector. Check it per the instructions in the downloadable manual. The spec calls for a maximum amount of drips per minute, and mine was about 6 times the limit, causing a flooding condition after it sits for a long period.
If you jump B+ and Fp terminals inside diag.box, then turn ign. on you will pressurize the fuel system (DO NOT CRANK OR START THE ENGINE!).If then you will take to screws out, pull out the cold start injector out of the plenum without disconnecting the fuel line and see if fuel drips from it.
Did the new rotor make any improvements?
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. Haynes said it might be worn valve guides or piston rings or something...what a money pit this car has been.
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