Front Suspension Replacement!

[SilverSportNOLA]

Today I decided was the day to replace the front Struts, being that the Passenger Side one was damaged, leaking oil and had a broken top mount.

Tools needed:
14mm socket or open/box end for top mount nuts and caliper bolts.
21mm socket for Wheel Lugs or whatever size for yours
22mm socket for lower strut bolts
22mm open end wrench
Dremel with fiberglass cutoff wheel
Torque Wrench .... 1/2" preferred
Breaker Bar .... 1/2" preferred
Socket Wrench
1/2" Extension 6-8" long
Large Flat Screwdriver
Pliers or Vise Grip
Bailing Wire
Floor Jack
2 Jack Stands
1 6 Pack
NO Helper
Mechanix Gloves ... they're GREAT

We'll start by using the Large Flat Screwdriver to remove the Wheel Covers and the 21mm Socket with your breaker bar or torque wrench to loosen the lugs on both front wheels. Should look like this ... hopefully with not as much brake dust.



Now get the car up on jackstands. I used a block of wood on the jack and jacked from the front swaybar mounts in front of the engine ... not sure if this is the recommended place but it didn't do any damage. Do one side then the other. Place the Jackstands along the rocker panel in the Factory Jack Points .... I didn't have a problem finding these ... they were well damaged on this 17YO car, I used a few short 2x4's to keep from further damagaing the pinch welds. Then remove the front wheels and it should look like this just with the strut still in.



Now unlock the steering wheel since you will need to move the steering back and forth. While you are here check the condition of your ball joints, outer tie rod end and bushings ... I found a really bad tie rod end on one side and destroyed control arm bushings on the side with the damaged strut. Use the 22mm Socket with the breaker bar and loosen the lower strut mount bolts. I didn't need to use the 22mm boxend to hold back on the nut but you might have to. You may have to swing the brake caliper out of the way to get your socket in there depending on the depth of your tools, you will have to swing it out of the way to remove the lower bolt. Use the 14mm to remove the caliper bolts and swing it out of the way ... get the bolt out and put it back in the other way to hold things together .... the bolt heads face the front of the vehicle, so be sure you put it back together the same or see my pictures later when I put it back.



Now take a rag and cover the driveshaft boot to protect it ... I forgot this step, but don't think I ruined the boots. Use the large flat screwdriver to walk out and remove the clip holding the brake hose to the strut. Move the hose coupler out of the way and carefully cut a slit in the metal with the Dremel and Cutoff Wheel .... don't cut the hose so pay attention or pay the parts store. Use a pair of plier or visegrip to bend the hose bracket ... top half back - bottom half forward ... just enought to get the hose out of there. Use the 14mm socket to remove the three nuts on the upper mount .... you may be able to skip the step if your mount is broken like one of mine was.



Now remove the two bolts on the lower mount and manhandle the assembly out of there being careful not to rip the axel boots. You must also be careful not to have the knuckle fall towards you too much or the axel will unseat itself from the hub. Since I was leaving the car overnight, I used bailing wire to tie the knuckle so it would not fall over and attached it like this.



Now you have one out .... and are allowed to remove the first one from the 6 Pack, cool off and then tackle the other side!

This is what my busted strut and top mount looked like, My poor Mechanix Gloves need a cleaning now after handling that dirty greasy oily mess.



Compared to the one on the drivers side that is still in seviceable shape.



And in the red box in this picture looks like there is a problem with my lower control arm bushing on the side with the busted shock (thanks katrina pothole). Hopefully one of the two or three other GEN2 members that are replacing their lower control arms or at least bushings will do a writeup before I tackle this one. While you have the wheels off ... take the mud flaps off, lots of dirt in there .... clean it up and put some wax on the paint to protect it.




Tomorrow I will be taking both of the assembly's to the auto shop to use the airtools and spring compressor there .... much safer than the spring compressors I have at home and trying to fight the top nut without the air wrench. So Far this has been very easy compared to the suspension swap on my NewBeetle which really needs to be done in the shop or at least with airtools becuase the assembly will not come out without top nut removal first.

Will continue after assembling the new struts.

[SilverSportNOLA]

Okay .... Finished the job up today ... It came to a total of only 4 beers with the two from yesterday, could have been 1 or 2 more if I had done the strut assembly teardown and rebuild at home.

I was not able to take pix at the autoshop .... but here is the results of the trip there .... The spring, upper spring seat and rubber insulators are the old parts ... the rest is new. I used the Monroe Struts, Bellows kit and upper mount.



Do what you must to get the strut in position .... just be careful with the axel boot, then put the three nuts on the top mount to hold it in place .... then install the bolts on the lower mount and get rid of the bailing wire. These new assemblies seemed to be a little bit longer, I am not sure why, the struts were the same and the springs are seated correctly. I had to push down a bit on the lower control arm to get the bolts in the lower mount.



Next step ... tighten all the nuts to spec .... 225 ft lbs on the lowers and 47 on the uppers. Connect the brake hose to the strut and you are almost done. I also replaced the very loose outer tie rod link ... it had already been replaced on the passenger side.



This is what a little Simple Green and some brushing can do ..... I had no idea the wheel was not black.



And this is how she sits after driving around the block to get the wheels squared to the ground. She looks a little high, hope she settles after some driving. The only problems I noted was the OEM dust covers that cover the bearing on the upper mount do not fit, the top of the replacement strut comes up too high. I will have to engineer a solution.



Heres the other side. And my Kismet F-150 .... after all the problems with the ignition switch last week .... and my saying how the truck held up better .... the ignition switch broke today.



Yes .... that is a bit high in the front .... not as low as my Dub!



Well ... now to tackle whatever is peeing brown on my driveway .... the puddle toward the front of the car is where it was left with the car in the position it is in, the other one is where I had it idling yesterday before moving it up a few inches. Any ideas anyone?

[nuron]

Wow the paint on that is immaculate. How does it ride now? I might have to replace my struts as they make a RAPID noise whenever I go over something, plus a whoosh noise. As for your puddle, looks like a leaky power steering unit to me.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by SilverSportNOLA

Well ... now to tackle whatever is peeing brown on my driveway .... the puddle toward the front of the car is where it was left with the car in the position it is in, the other one is where I had it idling yesterday before moving it up a few inches. Any ideas anyone?

Power steering line. Most likely the high-pressure line, but possibly the low pressure line or pump. Most of the lines are in that area (the pump is behind the motor there).

Oh, and get some new tires! Those things are dead!

-Charlie

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by SilverSportNOLA

While you have the wheels off ... take the mud flaps off, lots of dirt in there .... clean it up and put some wax on the paint to protect it.

While you have the mudflaps off (if you still have them!) unbolt the bottom of the fender. Two bolts down there - then bend the fender out a bit. Tons of leaves gather down in there and cause rust. Really, that should be a spring-cleaning event...

-Charlie

[SilverSportNOLA]

Yeah .... the paint is in really good condition ... just a few nicks. Car was garaged for the first 15.5 years of it's life, and according to my uncle ... the interior just started fading more rapidly in the last 1.5 years that the Avalon has been in their garage in this cars place. Maybe I can get it coated with some UV protectant ... really the top of the rear seat.

As for driving ... can't do, car is for my kid, I have not titled or insured it ... waiting on her to get a job and at least show she can afford the insurance and fuel ... I already have 3 others and the Mach1 which is not mobil at this time. Hopefully soon I will be able to get it on the road so it will settle out some and see if there are any other suspension problems .... the lower control arm on the passenger side might have also been damaged by the pothole hit.

Tires and alignment are on the list withingthe first few days after it is registered, rear ones are new.

Thanks for mentioning the power steering, I will check that, but as seen in another thread, one of the hoses is new and was replaced fairly recently. The oil seems to be coming from around where the block mets the oilpan, or maybe front seal/oilpump seal, but could be power steering .... will check it out fully.

I will probably remove the mudflaps again, I did see some debris in there.