1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi all. This is my first post here since I sold my Cressida. Anyway, I recently bought a '91 Camry with the 4 cylinder for a winter beater car. It looks like crap but it runs like a champ. It has 128,000 miles. I'm curious because about every two-three weeks I have to add some oil to it. Is it common for these motors to burn oil? I tried searching but all I got were results that say they like to leak oil.
On a side now - would it be worth changing the timing belt myself? I'm sure I can handle it as I've changed the heads/cam/intake on my Mustang. Thanks guys!
Hi all. This is my first post here since I sold my Cressida. Anyway, I recently bought a '91 Camry with the 4 cylinder for a winter beater car. It looks like crap but it runs like a champ. It has 128,000 miles. I'm curious because about every two-three weeks I have to add some oil to it. Is it common for these motors to burn oil? I tried searching but all I got were results that say they like to leak oil.
On a side now - would it be worth changing the timing belt myself? I'm sure I can handle it as I've changed the heads/cam/intake on my Mustang. Thanks guys!
You might want to check to see if the head gaskets blown or not as well. My car burns oil when it runs and leaks oil when it's stopped because the head gasket is blown. At this late in it's life cycle, it's not worth the cost to change it...
You might want to check to see if the head gaskets blown or not as well. My car burns oil when it runs and leaks oil when it's stopped because the head gasket is blown. At this late in it's life cycle, it's not worth the cost to change it...
It's only 128,000 miles. For a well maintained toyota that should be nothing. As far as I know, a blown head gakset usually results in compression loss and burning coolant, but that's for the pushrod motors I'm used to. OHC is probably different.
As far as the timing belt goes, I did it as my first major engine job on any car. All things considered, it wasn't very hard, just time consuming.
This is what I was thinking. I'm sure I could do it myself, but since it'd be my first time it'll probably take me a while. As I said, this car is a beater car to keep the miles down off the five-oh.
I have been told it is also a good time to change the front crank seal and the oilpump seal .... if not the entire oilpump. Mine has 145K on it and has had the TBelt changed twice by previous owner .... water pump was the second time .... maybe not changed but removed to change the water pump ... then changed again for its regular time .... they didn't change the seals and I think that is where my oil leak is coming from now, but not 100% sure until I get the timing cover off.
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1990 Camry DX FWD AT 2.0L 3S-FE
73 Mach1 - 90 F150 - 93 Del Sol S - 01 Beetle Sport
I found the repair records for the car and the timing belt was changed right around 100,000, so I've got about 30k left before I need to worry about it. Back to the oil burning, I've read around and apparently it is very common for 3SFEs to burn oil...where do they leak? Valve seals?
Worn valve stem seals usually result in a puff of white smoke at cold start up. How much oil do you add per XXX miles?
I honestly don't know yet. I've only put about 50 miles on it. I have to get the car through MD inspection (which is a HUGE pain), get it registered, and finally get it tagged. I was told by the guy who sold it to me that he usually had to add a little every other fill up. What is the most common cause of oil burning on the 3SFEs? If it's the valve stem seals I can handle changing those myself.
How many miles are you driving in that 2-3 weeks? A quart of oil every thousand or so is no big deal. When I put 900 miles a week on a 88 Camry w/3SFE I added oil every week. Oil change every three weeks. Actually it changed itself every three or four weeks! If you can't see the leak around the engine it is probably the valve guides. If it is the valve guides you will get a puff of smoke when you start it. More if it sits for a while. If it smokes on the road I would say piston rings.
Bottom line is you can do 90% of the work may need yourself. Valve seals require removing the head. A quart of oil every two weeks is probably less than 100 bucks for a year of driving. Save youself the time and money and just dirve it. If it's a beater driver, drive it till it quits. Dont let it get hot, the aluminum heads will warp and the engine is done.
Thanks OB. I'll just keep filling it and drive it till it dies. The 50 highway miles I put on it it ran great. I didn't notice any oil burning. I'm almost 100% sure it's not the piston rings causing the leak.
Is it the valve guides or valve seals that cause the burning usually? Two different monsters, lol.
It's only 128,000 miles. For a well maintained toyota that should be nothing.
that's true. but for my car, i think i'm going to put it on "beater" status. the metal around both sides of the rear wheel is starting to rust, the head gasket is blown, passenger side powered window motor's dying, on top of a bunch of other stuff. oh yeah, I'm almost hitting 200,000 miles on it too.
Is it the valve guides or valve seals that cause the burning usually?
Valve seals.
The seals are rubber and expand/contract with heating/cooling. As the seals get old they harden and don't seal as well. This causes oil to drip into the combustion chamber when the engine is cool and results in a puff of blue smoke on cold startup.
Since replacing the seals requires removing the cylinder head and tearing it down, if your not worried about it I'd leave it alone.
As for timing belt, its not to bad to replace. Theres just not much room to work with since its on the side of the engine and the strut tower is near it.
Aligning the crank & cam can be a pain, but theres marks on the engine. I'm sure you'll have no problem with it as you've done engine work.
Below is a link to a factory repair manual, if you need it:
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