How much should a CV joint replacement cost me? $500?

[driving90]

I inherited my 1990 camry v6 from my mom about 10 months ago. Since the time that i got it, i noticed that whenever I make a left or right turn, my car will get a clicking sound until the steering wheel returns to center. If my guess is right, I'd say it's a damaged CV joint.

When my dad took it to a (random gas station) mechanic, the mechanic estimated that it'll cost about $500 to fix. To me, that seems a bit high if the car itself has a blue book value of ~$600.

Is the $500 price about right for a CV joint change? If not, how much should it run?

Also, I've a friend who works at a mechanic shop that his dad runs (not sure if my friends ASE, I know his dad is). He said even though it clicks when turning, it should still be alright to use. On the other hand, looking around a few Subaru forums tells me that if I don't change the CV joint soon, i'll lose power to the axle and end up getting screwed over on the side of the road. Which is right--my friend or the forum?

[sampsongrsk]

with all my previous cars CV joints only cost like 10 bucks a pop, id say replace it yourself if you dont want to pay the money, its real easy, just make sure you have the car wheels locked in place (park brake and blocks) and are doing it on a flat surface. When i did CV joint work to my old vette it literally took me about 20 minutes. Also alot of CV joints make poping sounds when you turn (shity ones) because they are poorly made, had that happen to my 98 cherokee. Its really up to you, id say its not going to be a big problem since it only wears when you turn, but thats just my opinion

[toyrolla]

Originally Posted by driving90

Also, I've a friend who works at a mechanic shop that his dad runs (not sure if my friends ASE, I know his dad is). He said even though it clicks when turning, it should still be alright to use. On the other hand, looking around a few Subaru forums tells me that if I don't change the CV joint soon, i'll lose power to the axle and end up getting screwed over on the side of the road. Which is right--my friend or the forum?

Word of advice: Never bring your car to your friend who thinks he's a mechanic.

My friend followed the same advice from someone (i.e. "not to worry about it") when he had the same problem with his 90 Celica.
This was the same friend that I had picked up (along with his left wheel) from the Bklyn-Queens Expwy two weeks after I told him to replace it.

Listen to him and you might find yourself sitting in your car in the middle of the road with one of your front wheels rolling away from you like a broken toy car.

In regards to whether of not it's a CV joint, keep in mind that this is a FWD car.

It's common that where the CV joints are done, it's likely that the associated drive shaft might also be toast as well...

You might be better off just replacing the driveshaft and be done with it.
This way, once you're down there, you don't have to go back down there.

Following the advice as per sampsongrsk, you will likely fare better doing this yourself over the weekend. Having a repair manual would be advisable if you're not familiar with the repair.

Haynes manual is Ok, but if you don't have one already, try to get your hands on a factory shop manual for the Camry. They are usually more details and you might find a deal from a reputable seller on Ebay. Definitely worth the money.


Hopes this helps and Good Luck!

[Dave's]

Stealership price is around $500. Other places often advertise ~$100 per half shaft so $200 for both sides. Only problem I see with DIY is they can be a real pain to remove if it's been forever (or never before). Some have had to drop and disassemble their diff/tranny I believe.

[toyrolla]

On Toyotas it's not required to drop the tranny or diff.

Link to repair procedure:


https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

[toyomoho]

Might do the job yourself.

Try www.rockauto.com for a CV axle rebuilt around $60, Toyota prices will be $250. The axle is not difficult to replace if the carrier bearing is NOT frozen in its housing. One issue is removing and torquing the axle nut to around 217 ft-lb.

Download the appropriate service info at the link below:

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

[ycartf]

The link to instructions on AutoZone's site is pretty accurate.

I have done both CV axles on our 1990 V6 Camry and it is not that hard. I paid $69.95 (local transmission shop) for each of the (LIFETIME WARRANTY) axles a few years ago when we bought it and had them put on (did not know how then), then replaced one in February of 2006 and the other in April of this year when each of them had torn boots (but were free replacement axles). You can get them for about that price at AutoZone ($59.99 each at our local AutoZone - when I got mine the AZ was out of stock and I needed them then). The guy where I swapped them out for replacement explained that even if they are not abused, those folds flex back and forth each time the axle rotates so after billions of times even that thick rubber they use will break down eventually.


The tools / sizes / torques / locations (from my previous changes/experience and manual specs) are:

Axles nut - 30mm axle socket - 137ft/lb (AutoZone rents a loaner tool for this)
Tie rod end nut - 17mm socket - 36ft/lb (AZ rents the tie rod separator too)
Balljoint-to-steering knuckle bolts - 17mm - 83ft/lb (dont need to separate the balljoint)
CV axle-to-transmission bolts(6) - 8mm Allen - 48ft/lb (need a long bar running between lugs and contacting the ground to keep this from spinning while removing it and replacing it)
ALSO - there are no snap-rings or lock bolts on this design/axle which is one of the reasons it is easy to me.

I ended up just buying both the 30mm axle socket and tie rod end separator because I have now done so much to this car and have so many lifetime parts on it that I plan on keeping it until it is junkyard fodder. I wish you were close to me so I could just do this for you in a couple of hours one weekend, but please feel free to contact me if you run into any snags doing this. If you PM me on here I can give you my cell number if needed.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Might do the job yourself.

Try www.rockauto.com for a CV axle rebuilt around $60, Toyota prices will be $250. The axle is not difficult to replace if the carrier bearing is NOT frozen in its housing. One issue is removing and torquing the axle nut to around 217 ft-lb.

Download the appropriate service info at the link below:

http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry

No need to do any of that on the V6. The axles just unbolt at the inner joint. The only tough part is removing the axle nut. I got free replacement V6 axles for $90.

-Charlie

[Mike Gerber]

If you don't feel comfortable trying to do this repair yourself, take the car to a place like Pep Boys or call them and ask them for an estimate. This job should be around $200 total for parts and labor for installing a rebuilt axle.

Mike

[toyrolla]

Originally Posted by white90dx

... I got free replacement V6 axles for $90.

-Charlie

Charlie, if you got free replacements, was the $90 a huge tip?
just messing with you....

Drop me a PM when you have time, I want to know how your project is coming along.

[marc780]

Word of advice: Never bring your car to your friend who thinks he's a mechanic.

My friend followed the same advice from someone (i.e. "not to worry about it") when he had the same problem with his 90 Celica.
This was the same friend that I had picked up (along with his left wheel) from the Bklyn-Queens Expwy two weeks after I told him to replace it.

Listen to him and you might find yourself sitting in your car in the middle of the road with one of your front wheels rolling away from you like a broken toy car.

If your friends who work on your car are retards, yes this advice is totally correct

[eigerfall]

Finally replaced both cv axles on my 91 camry last weekend after driving on broken axles for over a year. Got tired of the clicking and reading on the net about how my wheels would fall off on the highway if I didnt get them fixed immediately.
Clutchmart offered to replace them for $109 per axle (lifetime warranty vs 2year at other places) plus $80 labor per axle(2 year 24,000 mile labor warranty). Thay also offered a $40 discount on labor if I got both done at the same time, so I did.