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Old 07-02-2007, 08:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear wheel stud question

Anyone know what's involved with changing rear wheel studs (drum brakes)? Because I need 5mm spacers for the new wheels, I also need longer studs. Are they threaded or pressed in? I assume they're pressed, but don't know for sure.

Thinking if they're pressed, I may combine this project with a rear disc swap.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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hit them out with a hammer.. and pull them back in with lug nuts or a press if u got one... but for 5mm i wouldn't even bother
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Can they be hit out with the hub on the car, or does it need to be removed?
Unfortunately I need to, because the wheels use tapered seat lug nuts, and 5mm will leave me about 2 threads of engagement. I *may* leave it as-is with 3mm spacers, but the tire just barely touches the strut. 2mm more will give adequate clearance. As it is now, I don't have as much thread engagement as I should have.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i've hit it out with the hub on the car b4 when a lug broke in half... may be it's good to use some cushions since you'r doing all 5 of them...
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks atobe, I'll check it out. I'm sure that much shock load on the bearings is not a good thing, if I do it on the car.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I believe the studs from an early model Toyota 4x4 are the ones you need, 89-91. You had mentioned changing over to disc. I went to the bone yard and pulled off the rear assembly from an 89 V6 and put it on my 88 4 cylinder. It works great. Now I have rear disc. No more adjusting rear brake shoes. The only hard part was changing the proportioning valve on the firewall behind the motor. That was a pain in the rear.
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Old 07-04-2007, 07:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Someone here did a "how-to" on doing a rear disc swap, but I don't recall any mention of swapping the proportioning valve. Good call, I'll make sure I get that part as well.

I wonder if the offset on the rear disc assembly is identical to that of the drum setup? I didn't need spacers on my front wheels... this makes me wonder if I'll even need them on the rear after I do a swap?
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The offset is the same. You'll still need spacers. The conversion over to disc was actually really easy. Everything bolts up identical. I got the whole set up for $75. I've spent alot of time at the boneyard. I basically changed my 88 over to a 91. It was all just for fun. Everything is so cheap there. I changed the bumper covers, the mirrors, the AC panel and a bunch of other minor things. One thing when your grabbing the rear discs, the emergency brake set up, make sure you get the emergency brake cables, their different. Another thing that I added while I was underneath the V6 is I grabbed the heat shields that are on top of the tranny bolted to the body. There's like two extra heat shields the V6 has that the 4 cylinders don't. I added that extra protection. They bolt right up to the 4 cylinder. I would like to think it keeps the cab a little cooler. But who knows. If anything maybe they cut down a little on the road noise.

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Old 07-04-2007, 11:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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http://tril.pendulus.net/reardiskswap.php i did the write up.. but 5150 has most of it covered.
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok, you're the one who did that article! Nice work!
You didn't mention anything about the proportioning valve... do you feel like you still have a good balance of front-rear braking power?

My need for longer studs is really moving this project from the back-burner to the front-burner. Plus, I hate looking at the rear wheels and seeing a drum brake.
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I got this idea of the rear disc swap from a buddy of mine that's a big time TRD head. He had a really nice 88 Camry with 18 inch Boyds. He did the rear disc conversion. All the research he did, the two proportioning valve part numbers are different between the 4 and the 6 cylinder. The pressure going into the rear is different. He left his drum proportioning valve on for a while but when he made the change he claimed he did notice a difference in stopping in the rear. Also he added spacers for the rear, the offset just looked to goofy without them when your putting on nice rims. He's the one that used the 4x4 studs to get that extra 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch, I'm not sure what is was. But it worked out perfect. One thing I did on my Camry that I really liked was threw some lowering springs on with Tokico struts. That made for a nice ride. And I had the stock rims, the exact same ones you have on your Camry Homegrown, polished out. They look good. I painted the insides black.

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Old 07-04-2007, 02:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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i was told that all the sv21 came with all the same proportion valve regardless of disk/disk or disk/drum setup.. stops fine for me in reverse i can't lock up the brakes like i used to with the drums but it stops fine.... i'll probbly change it out later since i do have the V6 in the garage but it's just so hard to get to !!!!! i just threw on brembo blanks and EBC brake pads on the fronts don't have any problem stopping.. rear's still stock however
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Old 07-04-2007, 04:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'll make a mental note to grab the proportining valve once I find a suitable donor car.

5150: I just got my basketweaves a few months ago (they came with the free wagon). They looked good on my car from a distance, but are too far gone to bring back by polishing. I will probably put them back on the wagon.
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