1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
The common complaint found in many posts: The key is turned on start, the starter does not even click, but the circuit opening relay is clicking and cold start injector is operating.
The condition is random, and usually noted after extended driving time (when the starter housing is hot due to the engine heat.
The starter, however, works when using the pendant switch directly from the battery.
Now my car is starting to make the same thing, so I trying to investigate the cause.
Here is what I found so far:
Most of the time it happened with rebuild starters
Jumping neutral start or ignition switch starter terminals is not helping
The usual voltage drop from battery + post to small starter terminal is 1.5 volts when starter works
The 3,4W 7 V test light is ON when connected to the small terminal of the solenoid and OFF when connected to the solenoid-to-motor terminal
Then I unplugged the ignition switch and moved the alligator clip of my pendant switch from battery pos. post to the AM1 terminal (white wire) on the ignition switch connector-harness side, while other alligator clip connected to the small solenoid terminal.
I pushed the button - nothing happened.
So I connected one clip back to the battery pos. post and then moved the clip from solenoid to the st. terminal of the connector (black/white wire)
I pushed button again and again nothing happened.
This way I tested the both sides of the starter control circuit--before and after ignition switch.
Let me double check the wiring diagram, but so far I am suspecting the intermittent opening in pull in coil. I would try to nail the problem down, even if I still will have to put starter relay switch.
Yeah this is a pretty common problem when it gets real hot out. I went as far as replacing the neutral safety switch, the ignition, put a Denso starter in and it still happens. As a matter of fact, I got stuck yesterday for about 45 minutes. As soon as it cooled down a little bit it started. I believe a friend of mine added another relay to the starter and it solved the problem. I'll have to ask him. He sold the car about a year ago.
The ideal method is to remove solenoid warm it up to let say 50 degrees centigrade and then measure resistance of the pull in coil.
According to the calculation, adding just 0.4 ohms to the control circuit is enough to cause inoperative starter.
The interesting point, however, that the hot at all times wire from battery (AM1), white and the wire to starter solenoid (Blk/wht) are entering the junction block No.1 cavity via the common 8-terminal connector J1(maybe named for me!) EWD, pages 18 and 46]Expecting it to be loose (which could explain high resistance in both sections before and after the ignition switch), I pulled the assembly out to inspect, but connector was tight and secure.This coming Sunday I will go to the junkyard to open up the junction block to see what is inside.
For now I put the relay switch, which will allow the current from the battery to flow to the starter solenoid.The relay is described on www.nteinc.com/relay_web/R51.html
Connect small black wire that goes to the solenoid IGN terminal to the terminal 85 of the relay
Connect the terminal 86 to the near-by ground.
Connect terminal 30 to the battery positive terminal (connect it under the screw that holds 80 or 100 amp fuse link for the alternator Lift the tab to expose side with two wires one is thick white and another is green).
Connect 87 terminal to the starter solenoid IGN terminal.
Doctor J so how has it worked so far? I just got stuck for 2 hours. Man I was pulling my hair out. As soon as it cooled down it started right up. What kind of relay did you get? And can you take a picture of where you mounted it? I'm not really that great with the wiring. Do you have any other clue as to what the issue is? Thanks, Mike
I would try to take a picture soon.
Have not opened the JB1 yet.
The strands of the wire to the starter terminal are oxidized -- green-yellow instead of red, this is probably one of the reasons of decreased conductivity. If you are living in Greater LA area, I could help you to wire it up. Just get a relay.
It is also possible to use OEM starter relay from the stick shift Camry or similar.
Thank you so much for offering to help me. I live in riverside.I'll go to the bone yard and get a relay. Where is it at in the car? In the center console or in the fuse box under the hood?
The starter relay for m/t Camry is on the relay block on the driver side kick panel.
Any SPST normally open relay must work, with the coil 12 volt DC and contacts rating at 20 to 30 amps.
Doctor J, it seems that after long long drives in hot weather, my starter just clicks and doesn't do anything else. I think it's getting way too hot, anyway to fix it?
Thats exactly what mine is doing. I went to toyota today and picked up a factory Denso starter,so I'll let you know if its still does it tomorrrow because it has been doing it every day since its been getting hoter out talk about annoying I have gotten stuck for a couple hours already in the last month but when the starter cools down its starts right up.
Well I get a deal at toyota so a paid 155.00 out the door.I think it runs about 200.00 with out the core, with your old stater its 170.00.But you have to have a denso starter to get the core 30$ cash back. They wont take any starter core.
If the solenoid makes loud click, the plunger /contacts are need an attention.In my case the solenoid was not even clicking!
If the rebuild starter has NEW solenoid and motor brushes, that probably will work.
But if it is just ordinary "remanufactured for Toyota" the problem may come back.
Many people are using relays, so even the old wires /switches /connectors are able to work.
The older direct drive starters used thick wires for the solenoid AND the solenoids were rated 9 volts for 12 v system.The wire from the ign. switch to starter on Supra was about 4 feet long vs 12 feet on Camry.
Is it worth it to get the second one? The higher kilowatt rating leads me to think that it'll start better. I don't know what that gear reduction thing is in the first one though. On another note, if the starter isn't working because of intense heat, how would a newer starter be better? Wouldn't it be subjected to the heat also?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
